Farm working dogs in New Zealand. 12. Dog Trials

  By Dr Clive Dalton

History 

Photo of 'Old Hemp' bred in Northumberland (UK) and now has his DNA in dog trial and working dogs around the world.

Dog trials have been part of New Zealand life since the establishment of sheep farming.  The late Neil Rennie’s research found that the first NZ trial was probably held at Wanaka in 1867 although it was not reported in the press. 

However, Neil found a trial reported in the Oamaru Times (now the Oamaru Mail) of July 9, 1869 as the third trial held on June 22-23 at Wanaka.  So these trials certainly outdated what was considered to be the world's first dog trial at Bala in North Wales in 1873!  Neil was always very thrilled with this historical fact!

The first trials were a bit sporadic, and it wasn't until dog trial clubs were formed that regular events took place.  The first trial, which included huntaway events Neil found was at Black Forest station in 1870.

Dog trialing in NZ is controlled by the NZ Sheep Dog Trial Association which is made up of affiliated member clubs with meetings starting with the summer A&P shows and culminating in regional and national finals in about June.  There are shepherds trial and maiden dog trials for the less experienced held throughout the year.

Dog trialing, while still an important way to select top dogs, has through Television become a competitive sport with great public interest.

Entry qualifications for trials

The only qualification for a dog to enter a trial is its ability to work sheep.  Pedigree, colour, age or sex are not important.  Handlers can be of any age and there is no sex discrimination!  Competitors must be the bona fide owner of the dog being run, and should have owned the dog for at least 6 weeks before the competition.

Each trial has its rules of entry. At some you may have to pre-enter some days before with runs pre-scheduled to keep to a strict timetable.  In others you enter on the day but may have to wait till dusk to compete!

Most trial organisations now insist that dogs have a current hydatids treatment certificate

Check the rules

It's very important for competitors to check the rules of the particular SDTA before they start.  You can get them from any Dog Trail Club secretary and are fairly common to all trials.  However, there may be some non-standard events which are displayed at the trial. 

In almost all NZ trials one dog works three sheep.  The running of "doubles" where a shepherd works two dogs or more is a British practice and is only used here for television presentations to provide more entertainment for the viewer. 

Standard classes

There are four main standard classes for trials run under the NZSDTA.

Class 1: - Heading dogs - long head or long pull.

The competitor and dog stands in a ring from 200-500m in diameter, and in a direct line away from where three sheep are set free by a "liberator" or "slipper".  When the judge calls "time" the dog is sent on its "outrun" or "cast".  It should be free-running and the dog should not waver, tack or stop.  Most long-head runs start on a hill and finish on the flat, depending on the trial location.

A pear-shaped outrun is ideal and it can be to the left or right of the handler.  Generally most courses favour a right-hand cast.  A very wide outrun as used in a big paddock is not wanted but it's also important that the dog does not run so direct at the sheep that it panics them and they take flight.

When the dog completes the outrun, it should stop in such a position that when the sheep move, they come in a straight line to the handler.  This is known as "stopping on balance," before the dog "lifts" the sheep or starts them moving.

The dog now executes the "pull" or drive the sheep straight towards the handler.  The sheep should not stop on their journey and the pull is completed when the sheep enter the ring where the handler stands.  This is the "hold" and is "claimed" by the handler standing still with outstretched arms.  After the "claim" the judge will call "right".

To go for the perfect hold the handler moves around the sheep as they enter the ring so the final scene is the sheep facing the dog with the handler behind them. 

The time allocated for this event is usually about 9 - 14 minutes.

Class 2: - Heading dogs - short head and yard

The competitor and dog stand in a pegged quadrangle or "quad".  As in Class 1, the dog makes an outrun and pulls the sheep to the handler, entering the quad between the front markers.  Even if the sheep escape, they must be taken back to enter the quad through "the front door", and the handler cannot leave the quad until this is completed.

Competitor and dog then move the sheep along a pegged 20m-wide lane towards two parallel hurdles.  They cannot stray outside the lane on this "first drive".  The handler can move across "the drive" but shouldn't get ahead of the shoulder of the leading sheep or move backwards.

Points are lost for excessive movement or running, or for the competitor and dog changing sides during the drive.  This first drive ends at a peg in the middle of the lane, 10m away from the hurdles through which the sheep have got to be driven.

After all the sheep have passed the peg, the handler may move about freely to help the dog drive the sheep through the hurdles.  The sheep are now in the "free working area" ready to pass through the hurdles that are 3m apart.  All sheep and the handler must pass through the hurdles.  So if any slip past, they must be brought back.

The "second drive" is similar to the first and ends at a line 10m from the yard.  Once over this line, the competitor can go to the 2m square yard and open the gate until it hits a stop that prevents it opening more than 90 degrees.  Once the hand is on the gate, it cannot be released until the sheep are completely inside the pen.

The gate cannot be used to frighten the sheep and drive them in.  That's the dog's job!  No part of the competitor, including the stick which must be no more than 1m long, is permitted to come forward of the line extending along the gate and out from its head.  Only behind this line can the competitor move about to assist the dog.

The run is completed when the sheep are penned and the gate shut.  The time for this event is usually about 10 - 14 minutes.

Class 3:  Huntaways - Zigzag hunts

For the "zigzag" or "huntaway with slew" the competitor stands at the bottom of the course, usually in a pegged area and facing a steep hill.  Three sheep are liberated at the top of the course and at the call of "time" the trial starts.

The competitor directs the dog to hunt the sheep in a straight line through the first two pegs marked on the course.  The sheep must then change direction or "slew" towards a second set of makers and then proceed to the top markers in line with the first.

The dog must "face-up" to the sheep.  In other words it must bark at the sheep, and not at the handler.

The time for this event is usually around 8 - 10 minutes.

Class 4:  Huntaways - straight hunt

This begins in the same way as the zigzag but the only markers are those at the top of the course.  The sheep have to be hunted directly to the centre of these top markers - in as straight a line as possible.

At some trials, class 3 and 4 are run on the same course, with the two sets of markers being ignored for the straight hunt.

Time allowed for this event is usually about 8 - 10 minutes.

General points

·      The aim of trials is to demonstrate a high level of stock handling and dog control.

·      The challenge is to be able to assess quickly the sheep's strengths and weaknesses.

·      The aim is to direct force at stock from a distance.  The dog must be careful but firm.

·      The first contact of the dog with the sheep is a critical time and must be accomplished with great care.

·      There is no disgrace in not finishing a run.  It's better to withdraw with grace than hound some other person's sheep to injury or exhaustion.

·      Withdrawal is indicated by a wave to the judge or walking off the course.  If you cannot control the sheep, then leave them for the officials to handle.

Judging

Judges are all experienced dog trialists who aim to judge each run with impartiality and to a uniform standard.  Judging in nearly all NZ trials is by one judge who takes points off the perfect score of 100.  There are a large number of reasons to deduct points.  Here are some major ones:

·      Not completing the run.

·      A dog that loses concentration and stops to sniff an area or urinate.

·      A huntaway that shows inattention to the sheep, eg looks back and barks at the handler called "barking off the stock".

·      A heading dog that makes a slow outrun without much purpose

·      A heading dog that bites sheep.

Cattle dog trials

Although sheep dogs work cattle, trials to demonstrate this skill have not been popular in New Zealand.

The Stud Book

The NZ Sheepdog Stud Book, in which all dogs that win trials can be entered started in 1940.  It is run by a stud book committee and a registrar. 

Further information

New Zealand Sheep Dog Trail Association, PO Box 307, Hastings, New Zealand.

Further reading

Burns, M and Fraser, M.N. (1966).  Genetics of the Dog.  London: Oliver and Boyd

Dalton, D.C.(1983).  Farm Working Dogs.  Ministry of Agriculture & Fisheries AgLink advisory leaflets.  FPP 613, 695, 696, 697, 698,699, 700, 701, 702, 703,704, 775.

Fox, M.W. (1965).   Canine Behaviour. Springfield: C.C. Thomas.

Fox, M.W. (1972).   Understanding Your Dog. New York: Coward. McCann and Geoghegan.

Kelly, R.B. (1958).   Sheep Dogs. Sydney: Angus and Robertson.

Longton, T and Hart, E (1969).   Your Sheep Dog and its Training.  Battle (Sussex):  Alan Exley.

Lorenz, K (1953)   Man Meets Dog.  London:  Penguin Books.

Rennie, N (1984).   Working dogs.  Shortland Publications, Auckland NZ.  96p

Scott. J.P. and Fuller, J.L. (1965).  Genetics and Social Behaviour of the Dog.  Chicago: University of Chicargo Press.

Farm working Dogs in New Zealand. 7. Genetics and breeding

By Dr Clive Dalton

 

Genetics or environment - which is more important?

This is the old question of which is more important - nature or nurture?  Is it the dog’s breeding (its genetic makeup) or the way it is trained and cared for?  Both are important and no amount of training will make a top dog if the genes for performance are not there.  On the other hand, good genes will not be fully expressed under poor training.

Most working dog traits or characters are strongly inherited - in other words what you see in a dog's performance will be passed on to the next generation.  The term "heritability" is used to describe this and is on a scale from 0 - 100%.  Weakly inherited traits like fertility and litter size are below 10% and strongly inherited ones like casting would be around 30-40%.  This is a guess, as geneticists have not done much study on working dogs, despite their importance.  Research has shown that hip dysplasia averages around 30-40% heritability.

What are working traits?

Heading dog

·      "Eye" or the ability to out-stare a sheep.  Dogs vary from "strong" eye to "plain" eye but the trait seems to be strongly inherited.

·      "Heading" or the dog's ability to cast around sheep.  Some dogs will naturally take a wide cast and others will run straight at stock.  The dog trialist's ideal is a pear-shaped cast.  Again this seems to be strongly inherited.

·      "Shedding".  An ability to separate one sheep from another at close quarters.

·      Temperament.  This is the dog's "nature" and breeders say this is fairly strong in its inheritance.

·      “Early maturity” refers to the ability of a pup to start working at a young age.  Again breeders believe this trait is strongly inherited.  The fear with late-maturing pups is that they may not start to work at all.

·      Not biting or grabbing sheep is important.  Seen in some strains so must have a fairly strong genetic base.  Can be modified by training but is always there.

Huntaway

·      "Heading".  All huntaways should be able to head stock as in heading dogs.  They'll head without showing "eye".

·      "Noise.  They must bark naturally and this seems to be strongly inherited.

·      "Temperament".  Very important and generally very good in huntaways.  They are always anxious to please.

·      "Force".  A trait usually seen best in big dogs that will push among stock with no fear of getting hurt.   A fairly strong genetic trait perfected by proper training.

·      "Backing".  Where a dog will jump on the back of sheep and walk over them.  A trait which varies a bit in strains, so must have some genetic base. 

Physical traits

Breeders are concerned with such genetic defects as:

·      Undershot jaw or parrot mouth.

·      Overshot jaw.

·      Normal reproductive organs.

·      Sound bone structure - eg no hip dysplasia common in some strains.

·      Sound feet pads.

·      Normal palate ie. no cleft palate.

·      Normal leg length - no drawfism.

·      No problems with the eye retina.

Single genes - simple traits

These are simple traits controlled by single or very few genes.   When we get to the performance traits like speed, intelligence and working ability we have to deal with thousands of genes.  The dog has 39 pairs of chromosomes in its sex cells (sperm and eggs) and at present we don't know much about the thousands of genes on them. 

These thousands of genes combine when sperm and eggs are produced into millions of different combinations.   So don't expect parents to produce identical offspring unless you start splitting eggs.  In future we could see a lot more reproductive technology used in dogs and even genetic engineering where we can separate genes on a chromosome and move them around to engineer more certain combinations.  But before that we have to do some "gene mapping" to find out what genes are where on the chromosome.  This mapping the genome of the dog is underway.

 Many genes - complex traits

If you see "variation" in a group of animals (eg litter mates), then you are dealing with many genes controlling them, and to improve the next generation, you "select" the best parents from the present generation.  Sounds simple!

So in dogs you should not be surprised when some pups in a litter turn out to be good workers and some are not so good.  You will see a whole range in ability and this variation is then the raw material we use to make improvement, and the main tool we use is "selection".  Variation and selection is what has made our dogs and what will allow us to improve them.  So don't pine for dogs that are like peas in a pod, we need variation to work on and make progress.

 Cloning

Cloning where identical copies of an animal are made is now possible, and some merit can be seen for it in farm animals.  The idea is good provided that no problems will occur over time with the animals you produce - because if they do, then the entire cloned population will get it.  You have to make sure that what you are going to clone is “perfect” in all traits, and that’s asking a lot in the world of animals.  It also restricts genetic diversity for future selection.

G and E

But remember this "variation: is caused by two things.  First there's the genes or genetic variation, referred to as "G".  Then there's the environment, referred to as "E" which is the rearing, feeding and training.  Some trainers produce better E than others.  You need plenty of G to make a champion, but you'll not do it without good E.   This is the old saying that "90% of the pedigree goes down the throat."

Mate the best to the best

This is what the early improvers did long before the science of genetics was born.  It worked then as it does now.  The only problem is what do we mean by "best"?

Dogs that consistently win at a range of trials, clearly have the genes needed on the farm.  They’re surely the best.   But there are some folk who think that today's trials are too artificial, and don't relate to the commercial farm with large numbers of stock per person.

The counter argument is that these trial dogs do work on commercial farms and can do all the jobs needed, as well as the fancy stuff for the trials.  They have the genes to do everything needed so there is no worry.  If they win at trials then they qualify to enter the stud book of the New Zealand Sheep Dog Trial Association (NZSDTA).  No useless dog can get into this book, and a dog’s looks and fancy points don't matter.  It's performance alone.

If you want to breed dogs that are not in the stud book, then you should make sure the parents have performed well and that you can see them working.  But remember you are trying to judge G, even if the handler has ruined it through the E provided.   In other farm livestock, many a farmer has been duped by thinking he/she was buying G when in fact they paid through the nose for E. 

Check the pedigree

Pedigrees are simply a record of ancestry - and that's all.  Never assume that a "pedigree" animal that can be registered in a studbook is genetically better than a non-registered animal.  This is where the New Zealand farm working dog is unique - they can only get into the stud book by proving good working performance.

If a pedigree is a list of names and numbers and has no record of performance - then it doesn't tell you much.  The important feature of a pedigree is that every time you go back a generation, then you halve the genetic influence of the ancestors.

So parents give half of their genes (good and bad) to their offspring.  Grandparents give a quarter, great-grand parents one eighth and so on working backward along the pedigree.  In practice, only be concerned with a pedigree as far back as grandparents, as each ancestor after that has so little influence.

Remember that if anyone is trying to tell you that an animal's superiority is due to a particular great-great-great grandsire, he has only provided one sixteenth of the genes.  Does this mean that the other fifteen sixteenth of the genes were useless?  Which would have the greater influence one sixteenth or fifteen sixteenths?

Fortunately the working dog world is free from a lot of the mumbo-jumbo about pedigree breeding that confuses other livestock.  We breed for performance and "functional traits" in working dogs and it makes life so much easier, and the end results more predictable.   Thank goodness nobody yet has started to say what a working dog should look like and formed a committee to administer this nonsense.  But that’s not to say it could happen in future.

Inbreeding

This is where "related" animals are mated.  This concentrates genes, whether they are good or bad.  Breeders are often forced to inbreed when they want a sire for a particular purpose, and they cannot find one better than their own.  So they mate related animals and live with the consequences.

There is nothing wrong with this, and it will certainly concentrate similar genes.  In the process however, as similar genes meet, they may throw up certain recessive genes that have been hidden.  It's here where undershot jaw, cleft palates, no hair, and drawfism is seen.  You can cull these out and keep on inbreeding, but as the level of inbreeding rises (called increasing homozygosity) you'll most likely find "inbreeding depression" taking its effect.

Here traits like fertility, litter size and general "fitness" are affected.  Bitches will be hard to get in pup, and they'll have small litters with “runts”(small weak pups) in them.  In working dogs we euthanase them but in the fancy dog world they keep them, often to form new breeds!

If you inbreed and strike trouble you can get out of it in one generation by making an "outcross" to some completely unrelated animal.  All those recessive problem genes will have been buried again.

So avoid high levels of inbreeding by not mating sires to daughters, sons to mothers and even as close as first cousins.  Don't go any closer than second cousins.  First cousins have common grandparents and this is generally too close, unless you have a very special reason to experiment.

Linebreeding

This is very similar to inbreeding but seems to have a better image among breeders.  It's “inbreeding done more slowly” and has the same effect as mating relatives and concentrating genes.  This is the way to go - you make haste slowly, and it gives you time to do some selection, and go back and make an outcross if you strike trouble. 

In this outcrossing, try to get a new sire from a breeder with similar objectives but slightly different genes.  Then you don't slip back too far and lose the benefits of the genes you want.

People have a great fear of inbreeding (probably because of the human religious taboo against it) but less fear of linebreeding.  So there's an old saying that if it fails call it inbreeding but if it works call it linebreeding!

The future working dog

The dog like the human is a very adaptable species and it has a great future. It can reproduce rapidly and responds well to natural or man-made selection.  As a result there is plenty of opportunity for man to change the working dog - for better or for worse.

The working dog is by no means perfect - despite what some enthusiasts would argue.  For example some people on today's farms with the range of pressures that did not exist in the old days, say it takes too long to train.  Today's shepherds don't want to spend hours after work and at weekends training dogs.  They want a quick learner - to save time, money and food.  And they want fewer failures, which there are despite all the breeding wisdom.  So there’s an interesting challenge for breeders, geneticists and behaviourists in the future.

Some people are concerned that the genetic base of our working dogs may be getting too narrow with the influence of too few top animals.  They fear some inbreeding depression which can be expressed in less robust animals for the hard life on the farm, as opposed to the short run at the trials.  This fear has come to pass recently with a rapid increase in the incidence of hip dysplasia (HD).  It has clearly been spread by the popularity of some top trial dogs, through linebreeding to them.

There's certainly plenty of technology waiting to be used in future dog breeding if the breeders or the market demands it.  It has been here for some time.  Examples are artificial insemination (AI) to allow more people cheap access to top genes, multiple ovulation and embryo transfer (MOET), egg splitting to produce clones of identical animals, and embryo storage and transfer. 

We are now on the threshold of using genetic engineering to move individual genes around.  There has been little discussion on how genetic engineering could be used in the working dog but the opportunity is there.  Indeed the scientific community in the past has shown little interest in the working dog in relation to its importance to the economy. 

New Zealand has a very high health status in the world and could become a genetic reservoir and storage repository for the world's top working dog genes - and that includes all dogs classed as "workers".    There is no reason why New Zealand could not become the Mecca for working dogs like we are for shearing. 

NZ farm working dogs. Dog trials. The Long Head

By Dr Clive Dalton


The Long Head
This is a trial for Heading Dogs, where the dog has to 'sight' the sheep at a long distance, move them and then bring them to the handler in a straight line. Three sheep are always used in trials in New Zealand as this is the most difficult combination - it's not a flock, and the sheep will always split into two and one - and in unpredictable ways. The handler's skill is to predict this - to be able to 'read' the sheep.

Picture 1. The release and cast. In the picture the three sheep are on the top of the hill on the left and have just been released from a holding pen by the 'releaser'. After the judge has given the start signal, the competitor or handler at the bottom of the hill has sent his dog away to find the sheep. Timing starts from then. The dog is at 11 o'clock from handler at the bottom of the hill on a right hand cast, and then go around them for 'the hold'.



Here's a picture of the releaser at the top of the hill, with his dog holding the sheep in the corner of a bit of fence until they are sighted by the competitor's dog. The releaser's dog is part hidden by a tuft of long of grass.



Picture 2. The dog (the tiny black dot) is now up the hill on the right nearly on a level with the sheep, 'keeping out' on command, so it goes above the sheep and comes around on to them for the 'hold'.


Picture 3. The hold. It's hard to see at this distance, but the dog has arrived at the sheep and is lying down above them in the 'hold' position. The sheep are looking at the dog anticipating its next move. You can now appreciate the importance of the dog's colour, to be able to see it and direct it at these distances.



Picture 4. The Lift then the Drive. Here the dog has completed 'the lift' and the sheep are starting to move from their release point. The dog is working on the sheep's left and directed by the handler has to move the sheep in a straight line down the middle of steep slope of the course.

Points are lost if the sheep veer off this line. The course is completed when the sheep pass through two peg markers at the base of the hill.



Here's a picture of a competitor whose dog has done a great job in driving the sheep down the slope. At this stage the competitor is allowed to move to the marked circle that the sheep have to end up in to complete the course.




Picture 5. The finish. The sheep have been driven passed the final markers to complete the course.



If the allocated time is used up before the course is completed, then the judge shouts 'Time' and the handler calls off his dog. Other helpers and their dogs retrieve and remove the sheep from the course for the next competitor, or the competitor will do this.

New Zealand farm working dogs. Heading or Eye Dogs

By Dr Clive Dalton

In New Zealand the term 'heading dog' or 'eye dog' is used to describe dogs bred to go around sheep and gather them into a group, and then keep a close watch or watch on them to stop them escaping.

Origins
New Zealand heading dogs have been bred mainly from the 'Border Collie' which was the main type of dog used by shepherds on both sides of the Scottish Border. The early shepherds who came to New Zealand from the Borders brought their dogs with them, the most famous being James Lillico.

The UK Border Collie is a small dog with long coat and very strong instincts to lie down or 'swat', then crawl up to sheep at close quarters almost to mesmerise them. These traits have been bred out of the New Zealand heading dog which has much shorter hair for our warmer conditions, and stands up on its legs so it can be seen more easily at a distance.

'Coop'. Classical 2010 model Border Collie. Photo by kind permission
of Northumbrian shepherd Helen Brown

This is why the long coat is needed!
Winter 2010

Some of the UK Border Collies bark when they get excited in close contact with sheep, and this also has been bred out of NZ heading dogs. Barking or 'noise' is provided by the NZ Huntaway (See blog).

So to stop a dog in New Zealand the command is to 'Stand' or 'Stand there' and not 'Lie Down' as in UK. Kiwi shepherds believe that a dog moving on to sheep from a standing position causes less panic than a dog that gets up from lying flat.

'Queen'.
Queen was a classical UK Border Collie, and did nearly a decade of loyal service at the Hott farm and Dally Castle in the 1950s for Matthew Dagg. She wouldn't work for anyone else - in fact nobody could even get her out of her box in the byre, even for the tastiest of tidbits.

She was very strong eyed, had the speed of a rocket when set away to gather sheep, and was kind on sheep once she had found them, but very strong in control. She could be sent away to gather sheep that were out of sight and would never miss one. She showed the classical trait of top Border Collies of when on the outrun she'd come across a sheep, she'd then take another wider cast, assuming there could be more . She would do this on her own without needing to be commanded to 'go back' or 'keep out'.

She was fearless on recalcitrent cattle. She could 'heel and nose' a cattle beast so quick that it didn't know what had happened. Being expert in this art, she would move in low, bite the heel and then 'swat' flat on the ground while the beast's kicking let flew clear above her head. Her timing was perfect. She almost had a smile on her face at the beast's antics.

She bred a few great pups and it was a very sad day when she left for her final gather.


Heading dog traits
Heading dogs go around sheep (head them off) to stop them escaping, and in the wild, the next step would be to move in for the kill.

This is made easier for the dog as once sheep see a dog, (which is their natural predator), they naturally flock for protection and either run or turn around to face the threat.

The natural instinct of the dog it to take a wide 'cast' to either right or left when it sees sheep, and this can be modified in training, so it can be directed to go wider to find more sheep which may be out of sight.

A major part of this 'heading' behaviour is for the dog to 'eye' the sheep when the dog is in close contact. The dog uses it's strong gaze to almost mesmerise the sheep and move up to them very slowly, being ready to stop any making a dash for freedom.

Some strong-eyed dogs will move up nose-to-nose with the sheep and good trainers can teach their dogs to nip the sheep if they won't move, but they have to make sure this is a nip and not a bite.

This instinct can be used to train a dog to catch and hold a sheep, where it grabs wool around the neck and not flesh, and holds the sheep down on the ground till the shepherd can get to it. This is a very useful skill at lambing time or at docking when lambs are older and very speedy if the dog will catch and hold them.

Good example of strong-eye slowly moving in closer to the sheep

Some very strong eyed dogs can be real biters and in the past it was very hard to cure this. Once they'd moved in close the next move was the sheep's jugular. All you could do was to have a handful of stones handy or threaten the dog with noise and a raised stick. However, today correction can be done much easier with the electric collar that gives the dog a mild shock when it transgresses and this is not associated with the handler.

The 'stalk' when a good dog will only move one foot at a time
while moving up on sheep. The command used to direct this is 'Walk Up'.

Types of New Zealand heading dogs

Colours
The most common and popular colours of NZ heading dogs are black and white, which were the main coloured genes that came to NZ in the Border Collie. This colour combination is ideal for seeing the dog at long distances, especially in the tan shades of dry hills and the NZ High Country tussock.

But with the dominant black colour also comes the recessive red which is not popular as it's not as easy to see at long distances, even on green grassy hills.

All-white dogs are not liked as they look too much like sheep for the shepherd to see at a long distance, and they also really scare the sheep when the sheep realise that a 'predator in camouflage' is confronting them.

The 'Blue Merle' gene also came to New Zealand with the Border Collie and these dogs also can show the 'wall eye' (blue eyes) gene in either one of both eyes.


Examples of NZ heading dogs

NZ Heading dog - Border Collie type

Classical Border Collie colours but short coat


NZ Heading dog - with some black & tan and a bit of blue merle

Predominant black and tan colours

Another nice black and tan combination


NZ Heading dog - long legs, short hair and fine-boned.
You would suspect some Whippet genes in its ancestry?


Another good example of a fine-boned type


NZ Heading dog - 'Meg' a classical example of popular colours


NZ Heading dog - with the recessive red gene (not popular)


Origins of colour unknown. Half the litter were black and white and half this colour. Easy to see at a distance but not a popular colour among breeders.

A good colour combination for distance viewing


Shepherds would be starting to think this dog had a bit too much white on it

The 'wall eye' gene
This a recessive allele of a gene that produces a light blue eye. Either one or both eyes may be affected. It has no negative effect on the dog's vision. The dog below has one wall eye. Dogs with the 'merle' colouring often have wall eyes.

New Zealand farming. 1300 Names for NZ Farm Working Dogs

Compiled by Clive Dalton and John Gordon

Imagine yourself without a name? It would be unbearable and extremely dangerous. You couldn’t function and you’d be an accident waiting to happen because your name is an “alerting device”.

Names provide information, colour, warmth and feelings to a relationship between humans or man and dog, as well as belief and hope that the person will turn out to be what the name suggests. So naming your working dog is no different to naming your children! It’s a very important business.

Working dogs need serious names, as many folk, especially your neighbours, are going to hear you calling it a lot, and you don’t want them to get the wrong idea about you or your dog! Naming a new pup can cause enormous stress among shepherds, wives and partners and the children. The funny thing is how difficult it seems to be to come up with names when you start to make a list. It’s as hard as naming the new baby!

Folk quickly come up with half a dozen names, and then are in trouble or others trying to help remember the name! These names are from real NZ working dogs from Council registrations and dog trials. Hopefully they’ll foster domestic harmony the next time a pup needs a name.

For further reading: Gordon, John. (1999). What’s its name. 1000 ways to dub your dog. Shoal Bay Press. ISBN 0-908704-97-6.


Abe; Abby; Ace; Aga; Ajax; Al; Alf; Alba; Albert; Alf; Alfie; Alpha; Amber; Andy; Anna; Annie; Angie; Angus; Ant; Anzac; Apache; Apollo; Ape; Apu; Arch; Archie; Ark; Arna; Art; Artie; Ash; Atom; Axle; Aztec.

Babe; Badge; Baldrick; Baldy; Bang; Barb; Barbara; Barge; Bark; Barley; Barney; Baron; Bart; Basher; Basil; Bass; Bat; Bean; Bear; Beast; Beau; Beaut; Bedi; Bee; Beech; Bell; Bella; Belle; Ben; Benson; Bert; Bertha; Bess; Bette; Betty; Bev; Bevin; Bid; Bide; Biddie; Biff; Bift; Biggles; Bill; Billy; Bin; Bing; Binky; Birch; BJ; Blackie; Blade; Blake; Blaze; Blend; Block; Bloke; Blondie; Bloss; Bomber; Bone; Bossom; Blow; Bly; Boast; Blue; Bob; Bobbie; Bobbin; Bodie; Boff; Bold; Bolt; Boo; Boom; Bonny; Bonzo; Boo; Boom; Boon; Boot; Booze; Boris; Boss; Bot; Bounce; Bouncer; Bovril; Bow; Bowser; Boxer; Boy; Boynt; Bozo; Brad; Braid; Bran; Brandy; Brash; Brass; Brave; Bree; Break; Brenda; Brenn; Brett; Brew; Brick; Brie; Brig; Brin; Bright; Bro; Brock; Bronc; Bronze; Brook; Brown; Brownie; Bruce; Bruno; Brutus; Bryn; Bub; Bubs; Buck; Bud; Buddie; Buff; Budsy; Bull; Buller; Bully; Bung; Burke; Burl; Burn; Burr; Buster; Butch; Button; Buzz; Bwana; Bye. 

Caesar; Callum; Cam; Camel; Cameron; Campeze; Candy; Card; Carl; Cap; Cappy; Case; Cass; Cash; Cadar; Chad; Champ; Chan; Chance; Chang; Chant; Chap; Chappy; Char; Charles; Chas; Cheeky; Chep; Cherry; Chief; Chic; Chico; Chick; Chief; Chill; Chime; Chip; Chirp; Choc; Choice; Chook; Chub; Chubby; Chuck; Chum; Cid; Cindy; Clan; Clancy; Clang; Clare; Clark; Claude; Claw; Clay; Clem; Cleo; Clint; Clip; Clive; Clone; Cloud; Cloud; Clyde; Coal; Cobb; Cobber; Cod; Code; Coe; Cody; Coin; Coke; Cole; Colt; Compo; Con; Connie; Congo; Cooch; Cool; Coon; Cop; Copper; Cora; Cork; Corrie; Cougar; Coy; Crab; Crafty; Crag; Craig; Crash; Creel; Crib; Crime; Croft; Cruel; Cruise; Crumpy; Crusty; Curly; Cus; Cut; Cotton; Crafty; Crib; Czar. 


 

Daf; Daffy; Dag; Dagg; Dai; Daine; Daisy; Dale; Dally; Dan; Dandy; Dane; Dark; Darkie; Dash; Dave; Dawn; Day; Dean; Deak; Deal; Deb; Debbie; Dee; Deed; Diesel; Deke; Dell; Della; Demon; Denn; Denis; Denny; Des; Dev; Dew; Dhu; Di; Dice; Dictator; Dick; Digger; Dill; Ding; Dinn; Dino; Dip; Dirk; Dodger; Dog; Dolly; Don; Donna; Doon; Doom; Dol; Dolly; Dora; Doris; Dos; Dove; Dot; Dotty; Doug; Dougal; Dream; Drum; Drummer; Dubby; Duff; Duke; Dun; Dusk; Dusky; Dusty; Dutch.

 
Earl; Ebb; Ebony; Echo; Ed; Eddie; Edge; Eel; Elf; Eliza; Elvis; Emma; Erin; Ernie; Esk; Esky; Eurythmic; Eva; Eve. 


 

Face; Fagan; Faith; Fake; Fame; Fan; Fang; Fay; Felix; Fella; Ferg; Fergie; Fern; Feta; Fiddler; Fidge; Fig; Fin; Finn; Fizz; Flag; Flake; Flame; Flare; Flash; Flax; Flea; Fleck; Fleet; Fletch; Flight; Fling; Flip; Flirt; Fliss; Flo; Flood; Floss; Flow; Flop; Fluke; Fluff; Fluke; Fly; Flynn; Foch; Fog; Fonz; Fox; Fran; Free; Fred; Freddy; Friday; Frill; Frisk; Fritze; Frog; Frost; Frosty; Fy.

Gabby; Gael; Gaff; Gaffer; Gail; Gain; Gal; Gale; Gas; Gay; Geek; Gem; Gemma; Geordie; George; Genie; Gert; Gertie; Ghost; Gift; Gin; Ginge; Ginger; Girl; Girly; Glen; Gleam; Glide; Gliss; Gloam; Glow; Glum; Glynn; Godfrey; Gold; Goldie; Gomar; Grace; Greg; Griff; Grip; Grit; Grizz; Groot; Gruff; Grunge; Guard; Guide; Guile; Gum; Gun; Gus; Guv; Guy; Guyver; Gyp; Gypsy. 



 Haig; Hail; Haka; Hammer; Handy; Hank; Hardy; Harry; Hatter; Hawk; Hawkeye; Hayes; Haze; Heat; Heath; Heather; Heidi; Heist; Help; Hemi; Hemp; Hendrix; Henny; Henry; Hetty; Hibb; Hick; Hinch; Hine; Hinkler; Hitch; Hite; Hobo; Hogan; Hokey; Holly; Hombre; Homer; Honey; Honk; Hook; Hope; Horse; Hoss; Howdy; Hubble; Huck; Hud; Hug; Hui; Huik; Hulk; Humph; Hussy; Hutch.

Ian; Ice; Idol; Igor; Ike; Imp; Inca; Ink; Inky; Iro; Iron; Iti; Ivan; Ivor; Ivy; Iwi; Izzie

Jack; Jacka; Jade; Jaffa; Jag; Jake; James; Jan; Jane; Jason; Jasper; Jay; Jazz; Jean; Jed; Jedi; Jeff; Jelly; Jenny; Jerry; Jess; Jessie; Jet; Jewel; Jane; Jayne; Jewel; Jib; Jill; Jim; Jip; Jo; Joan; Joel; JJ; JP; Jock; Jode; Jodi; Jody; Joe; Joel; John; Jolly; Jon; Johah; Joker; Joss; Judd; Jude; Judy; Jug; Jumble; Jumbo; Junior; Juno; Jute.

Kaha; Kahn; Kai; Kaiser; Kai; Kala; Kale; Kane; Karma; Kate; Kathy; Kaz; Kay; Kea; Keel; Keen; Kees; Kelly; Kelp; Ken; Kenny; Kep; Kept; Kero; Kew; Khama; Khan; Kilt; Kiltie; Kim; King; Kip; Kiri; Kirk; Kit; Kitty; Kiwi; Knight; Koke; Kori; Koro; Kurt; Kyber; Kylie; Kymba.

Lace; Lad; Laddie; Lady; Lana; Lance; Lap; Larch; Lark; Lass; Lassie; Latch; Late; Leed; Len; Leroy; Les; Lester; Lew; Libby; Light; Lill; Linc; Link; Lint; Lisa; Liz; Lizzie; Lloyd; Lock; Locket; Lofty; Lone; Lottie; Look: Loot; Lord; Lou; Lovat; Loyal; Lubra; Luca; Luck; Lucky; Lucy; Luke; Lulu; Lupin; Lyn. 




Mabel; Mac; Mace; Macey; Mack; Maddie; Madge; Mae; Maid; Maize; Major; Mag; Maggie; Mal; Mana; Mandy; Marge; Mark; Marty; Marvel; Mary; Mask; Mason; Master; Matai; Mate; Matt; Maude; Max; Maxine; May; McLeod; McNab; Mead; Meg; Merle; Mess; Mick; Midge; Mihi; Mike; Milly; Min; Mindy; Mink; Mintie; Miss; Mist; Mo; Moi; Moke; Molly; Monty; Mop; Mork; Moss; Mouse; Moxie; Moy; Muff; Muffy; Mugsy; Murk; Murph; Murphy; Muz; Myra; Myrtle.

Nan; Nap; Nark; Nat; Natalie; Nay; Ned; Ness; Nell; Nero; Nessie; Nib; Nick; Nig; Nigger; Niggy; Nim; Nip; Nite; Noah; Nob; Nod; Noddy; Noss; Noise; Noke; North; Now; Nudge; Nugget; Nuke; Nuru; Nut; Nute; Nutmeg.

Oak; Obo; Oby; Odd; Oddie; Ode; Odie; Ogre; Ohu; Ollie; Olo; Omar; Omik, Oscar, Ossie; Oswald; Otis; Ott; Owhiti; Oxo.

Pace; Paddles; Paddy; Paint; Pal; Pancho; Panda; Pat; Patch; Patrick; Patu; Paul; Pauline; PC: Pearl; Pearce; Peak; Peat; Pebble; Peel; Peg; Peggy; Penny; Perry; Pert; Pete; Peter; Pike; Pine; Pink; Pip; Pipi; Pinto; Piper; Pirate; Pistol; Pix; Plaid; Please; Plod; Plug; Pluto; Poi; Poker; Poki; Polly; Poss; Possum; Pot; Poto; Power; Precious; Pride; Prince; Price; Pru; Pud; Pulse; Puma; Punch; Punk; Pup; Pryde.

Quake; Queen; Quell; Quest; Quick; Quid; Quill; Quin; Quit;; Quoit; Quiz. 




Ra; Rab; Race; Radar; Rae; Raff; Rag; Rahi; Raid; Rain; Ralf; Rambo; Randal; Randy; Rngi; Ras; Rata; Raven; Raz; Razzle; Rebel; Red; Reef; Reine; Remus; Reno; Rewa; Red; Revel; Reg; Rene; Rev; Rex; Rhys; Rick; Ridge; Rig; Rigby; Riley; Rim; Rima; Rimu; Rin; Ring; Riot; Rip; Rise; Risk; Rita; Ritch; Ro; Roa; Roam; Roan; Rob; Robber; Robbie; Rock; Rod; Roddie; Rogue; Rolfe; Rolly; Rome; Rommel; Romp; Rose; Ross; Rouge; Row; Rowdy; Roy; Royson; Roz; Rua; Rue; Ruby; Ruff; Rugby; Rum; Runt; Russ; Rusk; Rusty; Rye. 


 

Sadie; Saffron; Sail; Saint; Sal; Sally; Salty; Sam; Sambo; Samba; Sandy; Sarge; Sash; Sasha; Scalp; Scamp; Scarfie; Scooby: Scooter; Scope; Scott; Scotty; Scrag; Scrap; Scratch; Scrubber; Scruff; Scrud; Seal; Seek; Serf; Shack; Shade; Shake; Shane; Sharon; Sharp; Shaun; Shay; Shep; Sheik; Sheila; Shelley; Shep; Shield; Shine; Shirl; Shoe; Shorty; Shy; Sid; Sign; Silk; Silver; Simba; Simon; Sioux; Skate; Skeet; Skeeter; Skein; Ski; Skid; Skip; Skipper; Sky; Skye; Slade; Slate; Sleet; Sledge; Slick; Slim; Slog; Sly; Smile; Smiler; Smash; Smith; Smoke; Smudge; Smut; Snap; Snapper; Sniff; Snip; Snook; Snoops; Snow; Snub; Socks; Soda; Sol; Solomon; Son; Sonny; Soot; Sooty; Soul; Spade; Spark; Speck; Speckle; Speed; Spice; Spider; Spike; Spock; Spook; Sport; Spot; Spotty; Spring; Spud; Spurt; Spy; Squire; Stacey; Stag; Stan; Star; Steff; Sting; Storm; Stoke; Stead; Stomp; Streak; Stream; Stretch; Steff; Steve; Stretch; Stride; Strike; Stripe; Stroll; Strong; Strum; Stu; Stuart; Stud; Stump; Suede; Sun; Surf; Susan; Sue; Swag; Swagger; Sweep; Swop; Sword; Swot; Syd; Synn; Sybil. 




Tab; Taff; Taffy; Tag; Tahu; Tai; Tail; Taine; Tait; Talk; Tam; Tammy; Tama; Tan; Tang; Tangi; Tant; Tao; Taro; Tarn; Tartan; Tasha; Task; Tat; Tau; Tawny; Tay; Teak; Ted; Teena; Tempa; Tess; Tex; Thor; Thorn; Thug; Thump; Thunder; Thyme; Tic; Tid; Tide; Tie; Tig; Tiger; Tika; Till; Tim; Tin; Tiny; Tip; Toby; Tod; Toddy; Tode; Toe; Toff; Toi; Toki; Tom; Tone; Top; Toppa; Topsy; Toru; Tosh; Toss; Tough; Towser; Toy; Tramp; Tray; Trek; Trick; Trig; Trim; Trimmer; Trip; Trix; Trooper; Troy; True; Trump; Tubs; Tuff; Tui; Turf; Turk; Tux; Tweed; Twig; Twine; Twink; Tye; Tyne; Tyro; Tyke.

Ugly; Uncle; Umu; Ura; Utu.

Val; Vale; Vamp; Vern; Vernon; Vesta; Vic; Vie; Vice; Vic, Vicky; Victor; Vince; Vincent; Vin; Vinnie; Viola; Violet; Virgo; Vito; Viva; Volga; Volt; Voss; Vow.

Waddie; Wade; Wag; Wai; Wait; Waka; Wake; Wal; Wall; Wally; Wanda; Watch; Wattie; Waqar; Wave; Weed; Westie; Wha; Whip; Whippy; Whisky; White; Whitey; Whiti; Whiz; Wick; Wilbur; Will; Willie; Wilma; Win; Winnie; Wink; Wink; Wiz; Witch; Wog; Wojo; Woodie; Worm; Woolly; Wren; Wyn. 

 

Xavier; Xena; Xerox; Yacht; Yap; Yappy; Yarra; Yarrow; Yelp; Yo; Yobbo; York; Yorth

Zac; Zap; Zeal; Zeb; Zed; Zero; Zeus; Zinny; Zinzan; Zip; Zipper; Zoe; Zorba; Zuki; Zulu.