Showing posts with label welfare. Show all posts
Showing posts with label welfare. Show all posts

March 1, 2016

Farm working Dogs in New Zealand. 8. Housing and Welfare

  By Dr Clive Dalton



 Your dog deserves the best!
It's a sad fact, that there are many working dogs that don’t have adequate housing.  For a dog to live a long productive life, good clean, dry, well-ventilated and draught-free housing with a comfortable bed is a basic requirement.  Housing should also be free of parasites and disease.

There’s a wide range of housing available for dogs these days, and no excuse for dogs to be living tied up under trees, living in holes in the ground, drain pipes, rusty 200 litre drums, or in broken kennels on dirty muddy ground.  The costs of good dog accommodation cannot be accepted these days as a reason for poor housing - see the opening comments about the value of a dog. 

The inside dog box
A dog can be housed in simple box inside a building such as a barn or shed.  The box need not be weatherproof but should keep the dog warm and free from draughts in winter.  Regular clean bedding such as straw is ideal.  Some shepherds don’t provide bedding and the dogs if warm are quite happy.  In summer the dog will probably lie outside the box or on the top.

The dog can be chained to the box or the shed wall, and the floor should be amenable to regular cleaning and disinfection.  A concrete floor is best for the box to stand on.

Single outside kennel
This is the traditional kennel, best made of tongued-and-grooved boards with a landing at the entrance.  

·      The dog is chained to the kennel or may be on a wire runner to allow exercise.
·      Here dogs are in contact with the soil and their own faeces.
·      Dogs often dig holes, which in wet weather hold water, and the whole area turns to mud.  They often undermine the kennel which then falls into the hole!
·      The kennels need to be shifted regularly. 
·      Providing clean fresh water is an extra chore as dogs often tip their water containers which are best fixed to the kennels.
·      These single kennels need to be placed in shade in summer, and where they can get sun in winter
·      Remember that dogs tied up in outside kennels are not secure from thieves.

There are now many kennels on the market made of metal, plastic materials or fibreglass.  They are lighter than wood and easier to shift, but make sure they are not too hot in the summer or too cold in winter. 

Combined kennel and run
These are now very popular and many types are readily available in a range of materials.  The most common are of galvanised metal.  Their features are:

·      The dog is kept warm , dry and draught-free.
·      There is easy access to clean the run, but it should also be easy to get into the kennel for cleaning. 
·      In the run the dog is on a slatted floor up off the ground.
·      The water container can be easily fixed inside the run.
·      The whole unit can be moved on to clean ground or can be permanently set on concrete and hosed out below.
·      The unit is ideal for bitches while on heat, and can be used for whelping.
·      In summer these runs need to be placed in the shade.
·      It's easy to secure the run and kennel from thieves.

Dog motel units
These are common on large farms and have many good points:

·      Dogs can see each other and are in social contact. 
·      The dogs are warm, dry, draught free.
·      A reliable piped water supply can be provided.
·      Dogs are high off the ground and away from contact with faeces
·      Cleaning is usually easy with a high-pressure hose below the kennels. 
·      The units can be locked and/or alarm systems installed.

When designing, buying or managing a unit, make sure that:
·      Dogs which fight can be separated or screened with a sheet of metal between kennels.
·      The droppings and old bones from below the kennels can be properly disposed of.   A septic tank near the kennels is ideal.
·      You can get into the kennel units to clean them out.  Have a good back entrance to each unit.
·      With many dogs housed together there will always be dogs barking!  Siting the motel away from houses may be important, but remember this may reduce security surveillance.
·      It's a good idea to incorporate a whelping section into the unit and some pens for newly-weaned pups

Transporting dogs
It's illegal to carry a dog in a car boot that is not adequately ventilated.  Leaving the boot lid open a little is not adequate as fumes are sucked inside.  There are now many good dog kennels made to fit on the back of vehicles.  These should provide adequate room, good ventilation, and keep the dog warm in winter and not too hot in summer.

There is always concern about car fumes, but there have been no cases of dogs in such boxes being overcome with fumes.  Dust in summer is also a concern.  Dog trialists are the main users of these boxes and they are most concerned about their dog's welfare.  They report no problems.  They stress that on hot days always park the car in shade.

There is a danger of the dog being injured if the car is rammed from behind so it would seem wise to mark the box in bright colours to be easily seem by following drivers.  Make sure you can lock the kennel door securely.

Dogs carried on flat deck trucks must be secured with a short chain that won't allow the dog to jump or fall off.

There's been recent concern about dogs with their heads sticking out of dog boxes on stock trucks.  These boxes are often so low on the road that it would seem possible for the dog to be injured if any passing vehicle got too close.  Having the dog secured in a low box makes more sense, than when dogs are up on the top of the truck.  They are not allowed to be loose with stock in the truck.

It would be safer to have the box on the verge side and not the traffic side of the truck. 
Then there's the question of fumes.  This is probably not as bad on big trucks where the exhaust often goes up in the air like a tractor. 

Welfare
Under current legislation, a dog's welfare is the sole responsibility of the owner. This law protects the dog from cruelty and neglect, and it's an offence to knowingly allow an animal to suffer unnecessary pain or distress.

There are certain minimum standards which must be provided under the law, below which an owner may be prosecuted.   You can find full details these in the Dog Code of Welfare on the Ministry of Primary Industry's website.

January 10, 2009

Sheep Farm Husbandry - Sheep behaviour and handling

Sheep behaviour & handling, sheep senses, social order, feeding, handling tricks, catching, moving and immobilising sheep, droving on the highway, welfare issues

By Dr Clive Dalton

Are sheep intelligent?


  • Animal behaviourists don’t like this question as it smacks of anthropomorphism – i.e. assigning human feelings and behaviour to animals. The better question is – can sheep learn?
  • Sheep can easily learn simple routines like coming when called, finding holes in fences, opening gates, and acting as leaders and they can learn these tricks from each other.
  • Feed rewards are the way to teach sheep routines and tricks, if you think it’s a wise move. You may live to regret it!
  • Lambs quickly learn from their dams – e.g. eating new feed like concentrate meal, grain, hay, silage, cracking open chestnuts with their feet, eating garden flowers, and even kitchen waste. They’ll also learn escape tricks from their mothers and flock mates.
  • Their senses are certainly different from humans.

Sheep senses
Sight

  • Sheep have generally very good vision.
  • The position of their eye allows wide peripheral vision as they can span some 145° with each eye.
  • Binocular vision is much narrower–40° wide. They have no vision 2-3cm immediately in front of the nose.
  • After locating a threat in their peripheral vision, they turn to examine it with binocular vision.
  • They have a blind spot at their rear of around 70°, which is wider than the cow, and is useful when catching sheep.
  • Sheep tracks are never straight as sheep continually turn to watch behind them.
  • They have colour vision but it’s not as well developed as in humans.
  • They often react in fear to novel colours that they’re not used to, e.g. yellow rain gear.
  • Sheep remember flock mates for very long periods (years) after separation.
Sheep don't like to see light through the woolshed
floor grating in the doorway of the shed

Smell
  • Sheep have a good sense of smell and will not eat mouldy or musty feed.
  • Smell is a major factor in rams locating ewes in heat.
  • Smell is also vital in lamb identification by the dam associated with sight recognition.
  • Sheep are very sensitive to predator smells. Feed intake was measured with different predator smells on it and you can see from the results below that coyotes, foxes and cougars put sheep off their food!
Sheep reactions to predator odours

Hearing
  • Sheep have acute hearing and they can direct their ears to the direction of the sound.

Memory
  • Sheep have good memories.
  • They have been shown to recognise other sheep’s faces years later with no meeting in between.
  • Tests showed they remembered at least 50 other sheep’s faces, even in profile. They also remembered 10 or more human faces.
  • Sheep that have been trained to do simple tasks are able to repeat them 6-12 months later.

Sheep remember experiences so gentle handling
is important to avoid bruising and pain.


Social order
  • Sheep are the classical social “flocking” animal.
  • They use the flock as a defence against predators – running away a short distance to form a flock and then turning round to face the predator. On closer approach by the threat, they scatter and regroup.
  • Social ranking is not as obvious in sheep as in other species. Normally you’ll see very few confrontations among ewes unless they have young lambs to fight over.
  • Sheep work out a social order by head butting, nudging, poking with horns, shoulder pushing, blocking and mounting. This is seen most clearly in horned rams (American wild mountain sheep) that back off then charge, meeting head to head with a large bang. Horned and polled rams should not be mixed as the horned rams will break the others’ necks.
  • Submissive behaviours in sheep includes lowering of the head and neck and moving away with a headshake.
  • In wild sheep a dominant ram leads a small flock followed by females, juveniles and lambs. He establishes this as a harem of about a dozen ewes.
  • Rams can form harems in farmed flocks in large hill country paddocks where they can easily get separated from main flock. Regular mustering is needed to prevent this.
  • In wild sheep, a lamb will stay with its dam till the next lamb is born. Both sexes will stay in their family groups till the adolescent males take off.
  • In farmed flocks you don’t see much evidence of social order, as regular mustering and movement prevent much of it.
  • In groups of rams, especially Merinos in hot climates with no shade, they stand in a tight pack creating shade for each other.
  • Merino sheep pack very tightly when being mustered and once in a tight circular mob, you have to get a leader to spin off somewhere and act as leader to get the mob to unwind and move forward.
  • This leader sheep is not of high social rank – it’s the first one who thinks they can escape. Pressure from barking dogs just makes the pack tighter, and if you are in the middle of this crush, you can feel the physical pressure that can lead to a smother.
  • Merinos need room to move and hate hassle. They have different behaviour to other farmed breeds.
  • Lambs are noted for their play behaviour – “follow the leader” and “king of the castle”. It’s said to be an indication of intelligence level and using this behaviour, sheep would rank highly.
Sheep are the classical 'follower species' -
waiting for one to make a move


Feeding behaviour
  • Sheep are ruminants and they start nibbling pasture from about a week old. They are fully efficient ruminants by about a month old.
  • Sheep can graze more closely than cattle as they have a split upper lip.
  • They graze for about 8-9 hours/day, which can extend to 13 hours when feed is short.
  • Grazing bouts (when feed is plentiful) are about 20 –90 minutes long, and they can have as many as 9 of them in 24 hours.
  • After a grazing bout they have spells of 45-90 minutes of rumination and rest.
  • In open range, sheep have preferred areas and stick to these. This is seen in the UK “hefting” system in unfenced mountain grazings. A major concern in the UK Foot and Mouth disaster was how to replace these sheep after slaughter as they would have to learn this behaviour all again.
  • Mixed grazing by cattle and sheep is ideal to maintain a good close pasture, and sheep adapt to this without any behavioural problems.
  • The condition of a sheep’s teeth is critical, and can have a big effect on behaviour.
  • Sheep learn from their mothers about which feed is suitable and safe to eat. South Island sheep will eat grain and hay as they learn from their mothers in spring. North Island sheep will generally not eat grain or hay as they are never offered it.
  • It often takes 2-3 weeks for sheep to learn as mature animals, and some may never accept supplementary feed and starve. Sheep also learn to eat different feeds from other adults or their peers.
  • Sheep store surplus energy as fat inside the body cavity (e.g. kidney fat and around the intestines) and under the skin. They use this during late pregnancy and lactation for lamb growth and milk production.
  • About 3-4 weeks before mating, ewes are given extra feed to encourage extra eggs to be shed from the ovary, ending in more lambs produced. This is called “flushing”.
  • Sheep kept indoors show stress by eating the wood of their pens and they will also eat their wool or the wool of the sheep in the next pen.
  • This wool eating is seen in sheep that have been buried in deep snow for long periods (up to three weeks).
  • Sheep need water – about 4 L/day/adult sheep and 1 L/day for a lamb. But they can adapt to severe drought conditions and extract enough moisture to survive from herbage or dew on pasture. The Australian outback Merino shows this important behavioural trait best.

Sheep handling tricks



  • To keep sheep moving, make sure there’s a clear way ahead.
  • Sheep don’t like visual dead ends – maybe they suspect it could lead to their dead end!
  • Let them think they’re about to escape back to their territorial area – the paddock they came from.
  • If you have a dead end in a woolshed, put a mirror on the wall so they see a sheep to join up with for security.
  • If you have to put sheep along a handling race, pen a decoy sheep at the far end to help the flow towards it.
  • Make races narrow enough to prevent sheep turning round. This is not easy, as you have to handle sheep ranging in size from large pregnant ewes to small lambs in the same facilities. Having tapered sides to the race is a help.
  • Make sure the sides of pens and races where you do most of the handling are close-boarded, so the sheep cannot see through and get distracted.
  • Advancing sheep should not be able to see those following them, as they’ll stop, then reverse, or try to turn round and block the flow.
  • Sheep following each other should see sheep moving ahead, preferably around a bend. Moving sheep will generally “pull” the followers with them – once you’ve got a flow going.
  • Sheep move best from dark into light, and dislike changes in light contrast.
  • Sheep don’t like bright lights e.g. reflections from windows.
  • They don’t like light coming up from under gratings. Gratings at woolshed doors should to be laid so the floor looks solid to the sheep walking inside.
  • Sheep really panic on slippery floors – so provide some grip.
  • Sheep don’t move well in mud and accumulated wet dung so keep the concrete parts of sheep yards clean.
  • Sheep soon get adjusted to any noise used to move them – so keep changing the noise for full effect. Changing it (or stopping it) will also help prevent the staff going silly!
  • Sheep remember past experiences. Run them through new facilities a few times and let them think they can escape before you subject them to any unpleasant procedures like ear tagging or shearing.
  • If you have badly designed handling facilities that cannot be fixed – keep a “Judas” sheep to lead the doubters through.
  • You can easily train a Judas with some pellets, or a pet lamb will do the job. Just make sure it doesn’t get onto the sale truck without you knowing. Many a Judas sheep has ended its days by accident like this. It’s not a bad idea to cover it in bright-coloured raddle or copy ancient tradition and put a bell around its neck – a bell wether.
Clever design: door to block the sheep race which fits inside the
other door so it doesn't impede sheep flow when not in use.


Catching and moving sheep

  • Don’t catch or hang on to sheep by their wool as it causes pain.
  • To catch them, creep up in the blind zone immediately behind them. But you have to move quickly.
  • The easiest thing to grab is the hock, and this is where you catch them with a leg crook. As soon as you’ve hooked the leg, lift the crook so its leg is held well off the ground. Then grab its neck before it gets the leg out of the crook.
  • Use a lambing crook – today’s models are aluminium and incorporate both leg and neck crooks. Either grab the sheep around the neck after you have crept up in its blind spot, or hook it around the neck as it goes past you. If it’s doing this at speed then be prepared for a fairly solid jerk and maybe losing the crook and the sheep! Once caught by the crook you’ll have to move fast to catch and restrain it.
  • To hold a sheep in a pen or in the yards, place one hand under its chin and hold it with your knees pushing it up against the rails. Keep lifting its head up to stop it lurching forward. If it gets its head down you will lose control.

Restraining a sheep up against the yard rails. Keep its head up and your
knee up against it's back leg.
  • To get it to sit on its rear end, first turn its head round to face its rear, then grab its rear end with your other hand, down where the back leg joins the body.
  • Hang on tight and move backwards pulling the sheep towards you.

Bend the head back and grab it just in front of the back leg. Pull and walk backwards.
  • The sheep’s legs will buckle and it will fall back towards you. Lay it on the ground on its side, and press down mainly on it’s head to keep it there.
Sheep now on the ground where it can be held
  • Then quickly grab its front legs and pull it up into a sitting position. You'll have to do this quickly as the sheep may be faster than you and escape or start kicking.
  • It's very important to find the correct sitting position where the sheep is comfortable and totally relaxed (see picture below). The sheep is being held only by the handler's knees bent slightly to keep the sheep upright.
  • If you move back from this position, the sheep will be uncomfortable and struggle, and if you move forward it will move forward and escape.
Sheep held in relaxed position with handler's knees pushed forward.
  • Practise finding the right angle to sit the sheep at, and keep your legs very close in behind its body. You should get the feeling that the sheep is sitting on your boots!
  • When you find the right angle, the sheep will relax and you can take your hands off and hold it only between your legs. It’s the position a shearer uses before starting to shear.

Perfection! Sheep totally relaxed for inspection,
treatment or for crutching or shearing.


The wrong angle with sheep leaning too far back. It's clearly
uncomfortable and ready to struggle, twist and escape.

Handling really heavy sheep
  • With a big heavy ram or ewe, you’ll struggle to turn its head around as its neck will be too strong.
  • Outsmart it by standing or kneeling beside the standing sheep with your head in its ribs, and grab the two far-side feet.
  • Give the sheep a mighty pull towards you and the sheep will land on its side in a hurry at your feet. Use that moment of surprise to dive on it to hold it down flat, and then grab its front feet quickly and sit it on its rear. Watch for flying legs when the sheep realises what’s happened and it wants to level the score!
  • Or just simply lean down and grab its far front leg and pull. Hang on to the leg and it will stagger and fall down, but you’ll have to be quick to hold it down.
  • When lifting small sheep over fences, rock them up and over on your knees, to save your back. Don’t try to lift heavy sheep. ACC figures show that over 40% of sheep farmers have bad backs!

Immobilising a sheep

Sometimes you may have to leave a sheep in one place after you have caught it, or immobilise it to put on the back of a vehicle or bike. Here’s a simple trick:
  • Take a length of baler twine as it comes off a bale of hay.
  • Leave it uncut so it’s really in a loop.
  • Tie one end of the loop around the hock of one back leg of the sheep.
  • Then tie the other end of the loop around the other back leg.
A loop of twine around each food above the fetlock
  • Then lift the loop over the sheep’s neck and it cannot move.
Pull the loop up over the sheep's head
  • Lay it quietly on the ground and it will be there when you come back.
  • Don’t forget to go back!
  • If you put it on a vehicle or bike, make sure it cannot roll off.
  • If you don’t have a piece of baler twine you may have to use your belt with whatever personal risks that brings! Align the hock on a back leg with the hock from the opposite front leg and tie the belt around both, or tie three legs together.
This is the best position to leave a sheep in as it can
belch normally and not get bloat


Droving sheep on the highway

  • With today’s traffic and motorists’ attitudes to livestock on the highway, this is a high risk business that should be avoided wherever possible.
  • Under the Transport Act 1962 and the Local Government Act 2002, local authorities are increasingly brining in Stock Droving and Crossing bylaws that will greatly restrict the movement of stock on a highway and certainly phase out stock crossings in favour of underpasses for dairy herds.
  • This is being driven by road safety issues but urban dwellers don’t like getting dung on their cars as they have heard about salmonella and campylobacter present in animal faeces. At least sheep produce less dung on the road than cattle do.
  • To avoid any legal problems in case of accidents or confrontations with motorists, you must be able to show that you have taken all due care and not deliberately placed motorists in danger. Be aware of this, as you may have to prove it in court, so make sure you provide large safety margins.
  • If you are forced to move sheep on the road, first check with the local authorities (district and regional councils) because their regulations vary in regard to the need for permits.
  • You may need to give 10 days notice of your droving plans and also submit a “traffic management plan” and get a permit. This may take some time to sort out and may cost money.
  • Local government bodies are concerned about damage to the highway and the verges, and large fines can be faced for breaching bylaws.
  • Droving within townships and on certain roads is prohibited and established stock routes must be used when designated.
  • If you have to cross a railway, you must inform the railway authority.
  • Stock movements are not allowed on the road during the hours of darkness or when visibility is less than 100m.
  • Don’t attempt to drive stock too far. About 10-12km/day is a good target distance.
  • Remember that when sheep first get on the road they will take off at a gallop and this can be the most dangerous time until they steady down.
  • When they settle down, let them proceed at a steady amble or walk to avoid excess feet wear on the abrasive road surface.
  • Stock need rest, feed and water at the end of each day’s journey. This will have to be arranged in advance.
  • Have plenty of support with people well ahead and well behind with large notices and flashing orange lights to warn traffic. Make sure they wear reflective safety vests and crash hats if they are on bikes or ATVs.
  • Be especially careful with the working dogs that move quickly and often get run over. Make them a reflective jacket!
  • Expect motorists to have little knowledge of how to drive through a mob of sheep so you will have to be very clear in your directions to help them.
  • Do not be tempted to damage a motorist’s vehicle in any way through frustration as experience shows that you’ll generally lose the court case.
  • Have vehicle support for any animals that go lame and a first aid kit handy for both animals and humans.

OSH requirements
  • Your sheep farm and yards are “a place of work” and the Occupational Safety and Health (OSH) legislation applies to everything that goes on in them.
  • The law says that the owner, lessee, sub-lessee, occupier and anyone in the vicinity must not be harmed by any hazard in the yards.
  • So to meet OSH requirements you need to go around the yards and first, Identify all the hazards, then secondly to Eliminate them. If you cannot eliminate them then you are required to take the third option and Isolate them.
  • A good example is an offal hole which is a hazard that you cannot eliminate, but you can isolate it with an effective cover and fence.
  • The key point is that if anyone has an “accident” which is generally interpreted by farmers as needing medical treatment or time in hospital, then the person in charge of operations at the time could be liable if hazards were found that had not be identified and dealt with.
  • You have to be aware of risks to people who visit your yards such as truck operators, stock agents or veterinarians .
  • Check with your nearest OSH office of the Labour Department for full information. We have got to take this seriously from now on, as we kill and maim too many people every day on farms and court proceedings can be very traumatic and costly.

Sheep welfare issues
People and organisations interested in sheep welfare list the following topics of concern. They are not in any priority order.
  • Lameness. The pain caused by sore feet, so sheep graze on their knees.
  • Flystrike. The agony of being eaten alive by maggots.
  • Shearing. Stress caused by catching the sheep and then having a machine run all over its body with the risk of being cut and then pushed down a port hole out into cold weather.
  • Shearing. Cold stress caused by losing its fleece, especially in unseasonal storms.
  • Stress from not shearing. Having to carry many years of wool in summer heat and often not being able to see (wool blind) into the bargain.
  • Dystocia. Problems caused by difficult births so many lambs die.
  • Lamb mortality. Lambs lost through hypothermia in late storms which always get TV coverage.
  • Castration. The pain of having rubber rings put on testicles or having them cut out with a knife using no anaesthetic.
  • Docking. Having the tail removed with a rubber ring or severed with a hot cauterising iron and no anaesthetic.
  • Transport. The stress of long journeys in land vehicles, and even longer journeys by ship through the tropics.
  • Dipping. Making sheep run through or stand in shower dips or swim through dip baths.
  • Swim washing at works. Sheep don’t like having to be made to swim.
  • Dog worrying. The panic and pain that stray dogs cause.
  • Mulesing. Removal of the loose skin around the rear end of Merino sheep by hand shears with no anaesthetic.This has been banned in New Zealand from December 2010.
  • Parasites. The stress and poor health caused by both internal and external parasites.
  • Untreated diseases. Sheep left to suffer disease without any treatment.
  • Starvation. This happens when farms have too many stock and in droughts.
  • Easy-care or minimal-shepherding systems. This is where shepherds keep away from their sheep and rely on “the survival of the fittest” principle during lambing. Animals may be left to suffer or die in this system.
In warm dry conditions, sheep need shade


January 2, 2009

Sheep Farm Husbandry - Organic farming and Homeopathy

Sheep, farming, husbandry, organic sheep farming, homeopathy for sheep, health & welfare, quarantine

By Dr Clive Dalton

Increasing interest in organic farming
There is an increasing interest in organic farming around the world as consumers become more concerned about food safety and with the over-use of chemicals in farming. Farming using “organic principles” is seen by an increasing number of people as a solution to these concerns. Below are some general principles

General principles
  • Organic farms need to be registered with an organic licensing authority to meet specific standards, and this will cost you an annual fee.
  • Your farm will be audited at regular intervals to check if you are complying with the standards. New Zealand standards are set to comply with, and even exceed, overseas organic standards required by importing countries.
  • It will generally take three years before you can become fully organic in New Zealand.
  • The basis of organic farming is to have a healthy productive soil which then produces healthy pastures and crops, and then healthy livestock.
  • Farming animals under an organic system requires an even higher standard of management than under a conventional system.
  • The main difficulties (or challenges) will be issues of animal health as you cannot use antibiotics, conventional chemical drenches for internal and external parasites or vaccines, unless under special circumstances which will compromise your organic status.
  • There are organic alternatives available to prevent and treat diseases, but if in the view of your veterinarian the animals are suffering, you must use conventional veterinary medicines with the implications of losing your organic status on those sheep for a period of time.
  • If animals under a certified organic system receive a conventional animal heath treatment, then they must be quarantined for a specified meat-withholding period in a designated quarantine area.
  • Homeopathy is approved for use in organic systems.
  • You may have difficulty finding sources of organically grown supplementary feeds such as hay, silage or grain-based concentrates. These must have been grown on registered organic properties and inevitably these feeds will be more expensive.
  • Conventional farms that have gone organic have initially had to reduce stocking rate, but after a few years production levels have returned to pre-organic levels with much lower costs, especially in animal health.
  • You will have to spend time making organic treatments for your animals, but many can now be purchased from specialist suppliers.
  • You should appreciate how organic farming differs from “biodynamic” farming, which embodies the principles of organics but takes them a stage further with many more commitments.

Perceptions about organic farming


In many conventional farming circles, organic farming has a poor image and its principles are viewed with great suspicion, mainly because of the lack of documented evidence in refereed scientific journals. Skepticism is increased when “biodynamic” farming principles and homeopathy are added into the picture.

Organic farmers are used to criticism from the establishment and are keen to point out to those contemplating going organic a few important rebuffs to their critics. They have to spend more time telling skeptics what organic farming is not, rather than what it is! Here are the points they make. Organic farming is NOT:
  • Farming by neglect!
  • Losing money from your enterprise.
  • The road to bankruptcy.
  • Letting your farm run down and look like a wilderness covered in weeds.
  • Letting pastures and crops fail through low fertility and disease.
  • Accepting poor animal performance through poor feeding and disease.
  • Letting animals suffer, and breaking the law.
Successful organic farmers point out that to be a good organic farmer, you have to be an above-average conventional farmer. Farmers who struggle to make money from a conventional system will not adapt well to organic farming, hence they tend to blame the system for their failure rather than themselves.

The premium prices received for organic produce are certainly attractive, but then the skeptics say these won’t last. This has happened in Europe where there has been a massive interest in moving into organic farming, encouraged by farming subsidies.

What is quarantine?
  • This is a designated area of a farm where animals are held until they are free from the effects of the treatment.
  • The area must be well fenced and secure. An animal that has received conventional treatment and completed the quarantine period, can be returned to the organic area but lose its organic certification for a designated period.
  • This period varies with the certification agency but is generally 12 months.
  • Permanent identification and keeping accurate records are an essential part of the quarantine process.

More information on organic farming
Apart from the organic registration authorities, there are now an increasing number of organic farm consultants. Check the yellow pages of the telephone directory.

Homeopathy
  • The Oxford dictionary defines homeopathy as “the treatment of diseases by drugs, usually in very minute doses that in a healthy person or animal would produce symptoms like those of the disease”.
  • Homeopaths stress that it is a gentle, effective and scientifically based system of healing that encourages the defence mechanism of the body to heal itself. It is based on the principle of similars or “let like be cured by likes”.
  • Traditional scientists are highly skeptical and are openly critical of homeopathy because they say it lacks research that shows statistically significant benefits. The hard thing for skeptics to accept is the principle that as the concentration of the cure (made from the disease organism or a plant) decreases, the curing power of it increases!
  • Now an increasing number of veterinarians offer both conventional and homeopathic remedies for their clients’ animals. Another observation which may not be related, is the increasing number of veterinarians who are women. Remember veterinarians charge fees so they have to use things that get results for their clients.
  • One of the main reasons why some traditional vets have changed their views and their practices, is that they are increasingly disappointed and concerned about how the current use of animal remedies (such as anthelmintics and antibiotics) is leading to farming that is not sustainable.
  • So think about it. You can join those who rubbish homeopathy totally as a myth without satisfactory evidence to prove its worth, or be open minded and try it on your sheep and see if it works.

Here’s a question to ponder.

If homeopathy is nonsense, then why are an increasing number of hard-nosed commercial farmers who have tried it, paying their bills and re-ordering product? They don’t do that if they have been ripped off.

The real question is this - has the past 50 years of veterinary research costing billions of dollars failed to meet farmers’ current needs, and does someone with the resources need to urgently sort out new priorities in animal health and disease prevention, to help farmers who are under ever increasing economic pressure? At present nobody seems to be grabbing this opportunity.

Disclaimer
This material is provided in good faith for information purposes only, and the author does not accept any liability to any person for actions taken as a result of the information or advice (or the use of such information or advice) provided in these pages.

Sheep Farm Husbandry - Castration and Tail Docking


Castration, tail docking, age, methods, welfare issues

By Dr Clive Dalton

These procedures have been carried out for centuries, castration to reduce the number of males on the farm, and docking tails to avoid the growth of dags that attract blowflies. So the term “docking” for both these operations, done at the same time.

Both involve animal welfare issues as they are done by farmers (and not by veterinarians), and no anaesthetics are used

Castration
At what age?
  • Ram lambs grow much faster and are leaner than castrates (wethers) and so make more money in the meat trade. So don’t castrate them if you don’t need to and if you have a good market for them.
  • On large farms the risks of stray ram lambs disappearing and turning up again to mate ewes before they are discovered is a real one, so castrating all unwanted males is sound management.
  • It’s recommended that castration should be done after maternal bonding has been completed (i.e. 12-24 hours) and before 6 weeks of age.
  • Under current law it is an offence to castrate any sheep over 9 months old unless it is done by a veterinarian who will use some form of anaesthetic.
Methods
Rubber rings
  • Using rubber rings is the most humane method.
  • A ring is stretched with special pliers and placed around the neck of the scrotum.
  • The rule is simple – make sure that before the ring is released that both testicles are below the ring and the rudimentary teats are above it.
  • Hold the testicles down with your free hand in the scrotum while you release the ring to make sure they don’t escape back above the ring.
  • It’s best to do the lambs between 7-10 days old.
  • Lambs feel pain as judged by them lying down and kicking from 5-15 minutes but then they show no more obvious distress.
Two nicely docked lambs. Tails will drop off in about 10 days. They are marked on the tail to help check on mothering up
Knife
  • This used to be the standard method before rubber rings were invented.
  • It is not recommended now because it’s slow and the risks of infection, bleeding from the wound, hernias and blowfly attack is very possible.
  • The bottom of the scrotum is cut with a sharp knife or scalpel and the testicles pulled out or “drawn”.
  • They are slippery and hard to hold and pull out. Old shepherds used to draw them with their teeth!
  • Research has shown it is much more painful than the rubber ring method.
  • Surgical castration should only be done by a veterinarian using pain control.

Emasculator pliers
  • These pliers (called the Burdizzo emasculatome) crush the spermatic cords making the ram infertile.
  • They are slow and clumsy and are not used much now.
  • There is always doubt about the result too as you cannot see the end result of the action.
The cryptorchid procedure
  • This is also called the “short scrotum method” and is where a rubber ring is put around the scrotum so it will eventually drop off, leaving the testicles up against the body wall.
  • The higher temperature this creates makes the sperm infertile while the ram gets the growth benefit of the male hormones while being infertile.
  • Be warned though – an odd cryptorchid may not be completely infertile and may be able to get females pregnant.

Tail docking
At what age?
  • The minimum standard says tail docking must only be done if there is a significant risk of faecal or urine contamination, or blowfly strike that will lead to poor hygiene and health. So if you cannot justify it – then don’t do it.
  • Without pain relief - dock lambs as young as possible, and not older than 6 months of age.
  • Beyond 6 months you must use pain relief which may mean the costs of a veterinarian.
  • Generally docking should be done after maternal bonding has been completed (i.e. 12-24 hours). But some farmers dock with rubber rings when tagging the lambs and claim it does not affect bonding.

What length to leave the dock?


  • The tail dock (the bit left) should be long enough to wag!
  • A good guide is that the dock should cover the vulva of a ewe lamb and be the equivalent length in males down to the bald bit on the underside of the tail. This is clearly stated in the MAF Sheep Code of Practice.
  • If the lamb is able to raise it’s dock when defaecating, it lifts the supporting tissue around the anus (the caudal folds) so can direct any diarrhoea which is common on New Zealand pastures away from the body.
  • If the dock is too short, the dung runs down its legs and into it’s crutch.
  • Leave the tail on any ram lamb that you cannot locate the testicles – it’s a good visual sign when drafting. It’s a ‘long tailer” and hence a cull.
This ram's tail dock is far too short, and you can see
the damage done to the tail ligaments. The
MAF Sheep Code of Welfare has been ignored

Methods
Rubber rings
  • Use rubber rings when lambs are 7-10 days old, and the tail should drop off 10-14 days later.
  • Don’t cut the tail off below the ring as the blood can attract blowflies.
  • Check the scar on the tail stump incase it has gone septic and attracts blowflies. This does not often happen.
Cauterisation
  • Here a gas-heated iron is used to both cut and cauterise the tail in one action.
  • Correct pressure on the iron is important to make sure the stump has been cauterised during the cutting action. A steady slow action is needed.
  • You soon learn to get it right if you have to hold a bleeding tail stump between your fingers, and cauterise it with the hot iron while the lamb is kicking with the pain!
  • Check that no docks are bleeding before returning lambs to their mothers. Any that are bleeding will have to be re cauterised.
  • Blowfly repellant can be applied to the dock if flystrike is a problem.
  • Don’t dip the lamb’s backside in a drum of sheep dip as the fluid rapidly becomes contaminated with blood and dung over time and does more harm than good.
Knife
  • This was the old method but has been shown to be much more painful than rubber rings and it should not be used.
  • The blood from newly-cut tail docks only attracts blowflies.
General comments on docking


  • Only dock lambs on dry days and try to keep the docking area clean. This is easy when lambs are docked in the paddocks they were born in, but if done in the regular sheep yards is often more difficult.
  • Keep the equipment clean by occasionally washing with disinfectant.
  • Operators should also try to keep their hands and overalls clean
Disclaimer
This material is provided in good faith for information purposes only, and the author does not accept any liability to any person for actions taken as a result of the information or advice (or the use of such information or advice) provided in these pages.

Sheep Farm Husbandry - Mulesing

Mulesing, welfare issues, New Zealand minimal standards, blowfly, alternatives

By Dr Clive Dalton

Background
The American breeders who put the wrinkles on the Merino more than 100 years ago to grow more wool could have had little idea about what suffering they would cause the sheep, or the public issue it has turned out to be. Mulesing, first described by J.H.W. Mules in Australia in the 1930s looked like a solution, and is still used in parts of Australia and on a small but unknown proportion of New Zealand Merinos.

Few could have predicted the massive international backlash to mulesing by people who want a guarantee that the garments they buy are from wool from sheep that have not been mulesed. Australia plans to ban the practice by 2010 and New Zealand Merino farmers are expected to follow this programme.

What happens?
Technically, to mules a sheep the Australian way you take a pair of short-bladed hand shears, pull the woolled skin up and cut off a slice on either side of the perineum which is the bare skin under the tail. A slice is also taken from each side of the docked tail. Farmers can do it themselves, and it does not need to be done under veterinary supervision or with anaesthetic. When the wound heals it grows skin with no wool so faeces and urine contamination are avoided – and so are the blowflies. The technique used in New Zealand is a less-severe and is a modified version of that used in Australia.

To avoid creating an open wound, a clip has been developed in Australia which is about 10cm long and is clipped on to the folds around the sheep’s anus that would normally be cut off. The clip cuts the blood supply and the flap withers and falls off within a few days, leaving a bare area and a thin scar line. It is claimed to be much less stressful than the cutting the folds off.

Why is it allowed?
So if it’s so gruesome an operation, why is it allowed? The rationale is that the pain and suffering of mulesing is a lot less than the agony of a slow death from being eaten alive by blowfly maggots. This case only applies to Merino sheep that graze the inaccessible high country maybe until they are 7-years-old or older and regular checking and treatment for blowfly attack is not possible.

NZ Recommendations and minimal standards
So whether you are for or against mulesing, the practice is currently legal in New Zealand but with some very specific minimal standards under the Sheep Code of Welfare. Here they are. Note that the word “must” is a legal requirement and a “should” is a recommendation:

  • Non-surgical (i.e. chemical) mulesing must not be carried out.
  • Surgical mulesing must not be carried out unless all of the following conditions are met:
  • The sheep are Merino or Merino-dominant types.
  • The sheep are destined to be farmed in extensive farming systems where there is a high risk of fly strike.
  • It is probable that no other flystrike preventive measure or combination of measures is likely to be effective.
  • The process is carried out by competent operators using clean sharp mulesing shears.
  • No more skin is removed than is necessary.
  • Sheep should be done before they are 12 weeks old.
  • Antiseptic should be applied to the wounds and insect repellant around them to prevent infections after the surgery.
The future for mulesing
  • Even with all these conditions, mulesing may be carried out only until practical and effective non-surgical methods of flystrike control become available. For the sake of the sheep, let’s hope this is soon!
  • With so much recent negative international publicity against the practice, it would pay anyone still doing it to review their farming practice and give mulesing away for the sake of our New Zealand clean, green and humane image.
Disclaimer
This material is provided in good faith for information purposes only, and the author does not accept any liability to any person for actions taken as a result of the information or advice (or the use of such information or advice) provided in these pages.

November 24, 2008

Animal behaviour and welfare: Sheep Part 1

SHEEP BEHAVIOUR BASICS: PART 1

Origins: Senses: Social behaviour: Feeding

By Dr Clive Dalton


Origins
  • Domestication of sheep started some11,000 years ago to produce an animal that was more docile and more flexible than the wild sheep to fit man's needs.
  • Sheep proved to be very adaptable to a wide range of environments.
  • After domestication, they spread across many continents and developed into a range of types.
  • They are found from cold continental areas, in dry deserts, and right through to the tropics.
Uses for sheep:
  • Meat
  • Wool - clothing
  • Skins - clothing, footwear, housing and saddles
  • Milk - cheese
  • Animal fat
  • Offal - wide range of products and pharmaceuticals
  • Companions - pets
Modern sheep problems
World sheep populations tend to be on the decrease for a number of reasons such as:
  • Wool garments and carpets have gone out of fashion.
  • The demand for wool is low, resulting in world surplus.
  • Sheep have too many predators that are protected by environmentalists.
  • Sheep meat is not eaten by many nations in the world.
  • NZ sheep population dropped from 70 million in the 1980s to 47 million today. It is not likely to increase rapidly in the near future.

Sheep senses

Sheep using all their senses to check out a threat - man and dog

Sight

  • Sheep have generally very good vision.
  • The position of their eye allows for wide peripheral vision as they can span some 145 with each eye.
  • Binocular vision is much narrower - 40 wide. They have no vision 2-3cm immediately in front of the nose.
  • After locating a threat in their peripheral vision, they turn to examine it with binocular vision.
  • They have a blind spot at the rear around 70 which is wider than the cow and is useful when catching sheep.
  • Sheep tracks are never straight as sheep continually turn to watch behind them.
  • They have colour vision but it's not as well developed as in humans.
  • They often react in fear to novel colours that they're not used to, e.g. yellow raingear.
  • Sheep remember flock mates for very long periods (years) after separation.
Smell
  • Sheep have a good sense of smell and will not eat mouldy or musty feed.
  • Smell is a major factor in rams locating ewes in heat.
  • Smell is also vital in lamb identification by the dam associated with sight recognition.
  • Sheep are very sensitive to predator smells.
Hearing
  • Sheep have acute hearing and they can direct their ears to the direction of the sound.

Social order



'Flocking and follower' behaviour used in mustering sheep
Note the heading dog behind the mob allowing them to move quietly along the tracks
  • Sheep are the classical social "flocking" animal and are a "follower species".
  • They use the flock for a defence against predators - running away a short distance to form a flock and then turning round to face the predator. On closer approach by the threat, they scatter and regroup.
  • Social ranking is not as obvious in sheep as in other species. Normally you'll see very few confrontations among ewes without young lambs to fight over.
  • Sheep work out a social order by head butting, nudging, poking with horns, shoulder pushing, blocking and mounting. This is seen most clearly in horned rams (American wild mountain sheep) that back off then charge, meeting head to head with a large bang.
  • Horned and polled rams should not be mixed as the horned rams will break the others' neck.
  • Submissive behaviours in sheep include lowering of the head and neck and moving away with a head shake.
  • In wild sheep a dominant ram leads a small flock followed by females, juveniles and lambs. He establishes this as a harem of about a dozen ewes.
  • Rams can form harems in farmed flocks in large hill country paddocks where they can easily get separated from main flock. Regular mustering is needed to prevent this.
  • In wild sheep, a lamb will stay with its dam till the next lamb is born. Both sexes will stay in their family groups till the adolescent males take off.
  • In farmed flocks you don't see much evidence of social order, as regular mustering and movement prevent much of it.
  • In groups of rams, especially Merinos in hot climates with no shade, they stand in a tight pack creating shade for each other.
  • The Merino packs especially tightly when being handled and once in a tight circular mob, you have to get a leader to spin off somewhere and act as leader to get some movement.
  • This leader sheep is not of high social rank - it's the first one who thinks they can escape. Pressure from barking dogs just makes the pack tighter, and if you are in the middle of this crush, you can feel the physical pressure that can lead to a smother.
  • Merinos need room to move and hate hassle. They have different behaviour to other farmed breeds.
  • Lambs are noted for their play behaviour - "follow the leader" and "king of the castle". It's said to be an indication of intelligence level and using this behaviour, sheep would rank higher than any other ungulate.

A wonderful example of sheep as a 'follower species'. It's easy in a round sale ring to keep sheep circling following each other to show them to buyers. Notice the shepherds are going against the flow of the sheep, so the sheep think they are escaping away from danger.
(Photo by kind permission of Helen Brown)
Feeding
  • Sheep are ruminants and they start nibbling pasture from about a week old. They are efficient ruminants by about a month old.
  • Sheep can graze more closely than cattle as they have a split upper lip.
  • They graze for about 8-9 hours/day, which can extend to 13 hours when feed is short.
  • Grazing bouts (when feed is plentiful) are about 20 -90 minutes, and they can have as many as 9 of them in 24 hours.
  • After a grazing bout they have spells of 45-90 minutes of rumination and rest.
  • In open range sheep have preferred areas and stick to these. This is seen in the UK "hefting" system in unfenced mountain grazings.
  • A major concern in the UK Foot and Mouth disaster was how to replace these sheep after slaughter as they would have to learn this behaviour all again.
  • Mixed grazing by cattle and sheep is ideal to maintain a good close pasture, and sheep adapt to this without any behavioural problems.
  • The condition of a sheep's teeth is critical, and can have a big effect on behaviour.
  • Sheep learn from their mothers which feed to eat. South Island sheep will eat grain and hay as they learn from their mothers in spring. North Island sheep will generally not eat grain or hay as they are never offered it, except in serious feed shortages such as droughts.
  • It often takes 2-3 weeks for sheep to learn as mature animals, and some may never accept supplementary feed and starve. Sheep also learn to eat different feeds from other adults or their peers.
  • Sheep store surplus energy as fat inside the body cavity (e.g. kidney fat and around the intestines) and under the skin. They use this up during late pregnancy and lactation for lamb growth and milk production.
  • About 3-4 weeks before mating ewes are given extra feed to encourage extra eggs to be shed from the ovary, ending in more lambs produced. This is called "flushing".
  • Sheep kept indoors show stress by eating the wood of their pens and they will also eat their wool, or the wool of the sheep in the next pen.
  • This wool eating is seen is sheep that have been buried in deep snow for up to three weeks.
  • Sheep need water - about 4litres/day/adult sheep and 1 litre/day for a lamb. But they can adapt to severe drought conditions and extract enough moisture to survive from herbage. The Australian outback Merino shows this important behavioural trait best.