Showing posts with label shepherding. Show all posts
Showing posts with label shepherding. Show all posts

February 5, 2015

Shepherd's Crook. How to make a horn-headed crook

Making a horn headed shepherd's crook

By Dr Clive Dalton

The bigger and more solid the horn, the more material you have to work with and hence the better the end result.  See the Border Shepherd's Stick Dressing Association website .  British sheep breeds with heavy horns like the Scottish Blackface or Swaledale are ideal, with other breeds like the Merino in Australia and New Zealand are lighter and not so good.  Some Wiltshire horn rams have good horns and so did the Drysdale in New Zealand before it's coarse wool went out of fashion.

 Plain horn head
Here are some basic instructions to make a 'plain horn' stick which would be used for generally walking around the farm, or taking with you to the sale - sometimes called a 'sale stick'.




The horn as cut from the ram’s head. Note the bone core which is part of the skull and which falls out on boiling.  You can't use that bit


Only use the solid end of the horn which comes from an old ram, best over two years old and has a second curl in the horn.  A single curl will be all core bone.

Decide which is going to be the neck of the horn handle. Start rounding it into shape.

Keep removing horn to develop the round shape.
 Boil the horn for about 4-5 minutes, then hold in the vice to bend the end twist out. Hold in position until it cools and is stable.


Hold the horn firmly in the vice to bore the hole for the shank spigot. Make sure the brace is perpendicular.

A hole of 60mm deep is ideal.

 Cut the spigot on the shank to fit the hole.

Bore a hole to insert a nail right down the length of the spigot and into the shank. This is to strengthen the joint with the horn.
2Cut the nail off and smear with plenty of a good two-pot glue.

 Check the join between horn and shank has no gaps.

Use cramps to keep pressure on the join till the glue dries. Let the glue dry for at least 24 hours. Check the joint is good and the glue is hard.


Use tape to protect the bark before trimming more off the horn with rasps or glass.
Protect the bark when holding it in the vice.
 
Thin the horn to weaken the corner so it bends easily after boiling for 4-5 minutes.  Keep shaping the head to remove excess horn.  Horn is easier to cut when it's warm.




 


 Put a tourniquet on the horn to prevent it opening up when bending it in to get a nice shape.  It should fit over a wrist when finished.  
Boil the very end only to soften it and bend it in the vice so it's in line with the shank.Pull it in by twisting the torniquet.  Let it cool right down before removing.  If it is not in line with the shank, twist it in the vice till cold

 Use a full range of sandpaper grits to finish the head.  If you find rasp marks at this stage, remove them with a bit of glass and re-sandpaper.
Shape the end of the head to put a name or decoration on it.
Put a tourniquet on the end again to stop it going back to it's natural bend, and let it cool before removing the tourniquet.  It must be in line with the shank.



Hang the stick up by the end to varnish.  Fit a ferule on the end to stop it wearing when used on hard ground.  A bit of copper water pipe is ideal but make sure some wool protrudes below the ferrule to get a grip on hard ground.




Further reading
See the website for the Border Shepherds Stick Dressing Association
http://www.bsda.eu/

November 29, 2010

Northumberland sheep husbandry - shelters, stells and keb hooses

By Donald Clegg

2010 blizzard at Emblehope.
Photo by Helen Brown while helping to get the flock to lower ground.

(Helen Brown copyright)


Sheep shelters
All over the moors and fells of the North of England and southern Scotland, there are strange dry-stone structures, now abandoned , moss-covered and ruinous in the most part, which have intrigued visitors to this Border region for decades as they explore its magic landscape.


Some of these structures are simply short runs of dry-stone wall, some straight, some curved or ‘L’ shaped and some more complicated in the form of a cross. Seldom more than 20 yards long in any direction, they would seem to serve no practical purpose, being very often in the ‘middle of nowhere’, and far from human habitation.

Their isolation gives us the first clue to their use. Until fairly recently, before thousands of acres of our Border uplands were given over to forestry, sheep and sheep farming dominated the heathery and grassy slopes of the Cheviots in Northumberland, the Lakeland fells and the Scottish lowlands.

The farm house was usually situated in the lower valley and the shepherds’ cottages in the upper reaches or ’hopes’. Hence names like Whickhope, Hedgehope, Blakhope or Ramshope, etc. The shepherds worked largely unsupervised and in isolation from the boss for weeks at a time and met together only at the seasonal ‘gatherings’ for dipping, clipping, dosing, spaening (weaning) lambs and taking then or draught (aged) yowes to the mart to be sold on.

During winter, on these high exposed fells, heavy snowfalls would force the sheep to seek shelter in any slack or hollow that they could find. As a result, many would become buried – sometimes for days or even weeks, before the shepherd could locate them and dig them out.


This is where these stone wall shelters came in. They were built in specific locations so that in severe weather, they were the preferred rendezvous points for storm-lashed sheep. If they became buried behind their shelter wall, at least the heord (shepherd) knew where to look first.

Most walls were placed to offer shelter from the prevailing Westerly winds but some, in crescent or cross shape, provided shelter from winds and weather coming from almost any direction. Long since sheep were supplanted by conifers, many a weary walker has been grateful for the respite from the elements offered by these long-neglected walls.

Stells

2010 blizzard at Ottercops.
Photo by Helen Brown while helping to get the flock to lower ground.

(Helen Brown copyright)


Stells are almost as common as stone wall shelters. According to Wikipedia, the word ‘stell’ simply means ‘a pen for enclosing animals’, but doesn’t explain where the word comes from. For countless years it has been, and still is in common use throughout the Border regions of Scotland and England, and I suspect it is of Scandinavian or Norse origin, though I haven’t been able to verify this – perhaps you can.



By and large, stells are circular, perhaps 30 feet (10m) in diameter and the walls are 4 feet six inches (1.5m) high, built as dry-stone walls without mortar. Other stells are rectangular, in the, in the same proporitoin and material and soem hve one side of the rectangle extended to provide additional shelter for sheep that don't want to go inside.

All these enclosures, whether round or oblong had a narrow entrance closed by a small wooden gate or wicket, or more often by a simple chestnut hurdle.

The purpose of the stell was to provide the shepherd with a place to hold a few sheep at a time when some emergency first aid was needed, treating footrot, removing dags (clarts) from their rear ends, as well as treating them to prevent blowfly maggots (maaks) eating them alive when summer came. Doing these jobs out on the hill saved the time-consuming job of having to drive sheep needing treatment, maybe a couple of miles or more, down to the pens at the farm for treatment.

Although many stell are found on the higher slopes of the fells, most of them are built near a burn, partly because it's useful to have ready access to water for mixing medicines and potions, but also a burnside location is likely to be less exposed than higher up on the hill.

In winter, the stell could be used as a convenient store for a few day's supply of hay, avoiding the daily journeys of carrying hay from the farm for the sheep out on the hill. In the days before motor bikes, hay had to be carried on the shepherd's back, pony or sledge.

So stells were multi-purpose structures - providing shelter, administering first aid, holding sick sheep till they recovered to list just a few. In this day and age we can add emergency shelter for lost hill walkers where they can be easily found.

Keb Hoose

Keb hoose with 'the Beacon' hill in the background


I have been unable to discover the origin of the word ‘keb’ but it is a commonly used word in a Border shepherd’s vocabulary even today.

A ewe which has had a still-born lamb is said to have ‘kebbed’, and the dead lamb is referred to as a ‘keb’. You used to hear the term ' a kebbit yowe'. It follows then, that the keb hoose was mainly concerned with dealing with these occasions of lamb mortality out in the field (literally) or, more likely, up on the hill and so the keb hoose’s principal function was to act as an emergency first aid station.

A ewe that has kebbed naturally has lots of milk but has no lamb; whereas there could be ewe with two or more lambs and only enough milk for one. Solution – let the kebbed ewe ‘adopt’ one of the twins or perhaps an orphan lamb that has lost its mother.

Keb Hoose up the Lewis burn


This was often easier said than done as a ewe recognises its own by its scent and will not readily accept a strange lamb and will even butt it repeatedly to prevent it from suckling. To get over this problem the heord would skin the dead lamb, and fit the skin over the orphan to trick the ewe into thinking this it was her own lamb.

Another ploy was to smother the strange lamb with a mixture of oatmeal and milk so that, by the time the ewe had licked it all off she’d convinced herself that this was indeed her own. These tricks usually worked quite readily but, in awkward cases, could take days of patience, interjected with a few well chosen expletives and dire threats to the yowe's life!

The old shepherd's even used to try whisky, but soon realised that it was a terrible waste and it did them more good than the mothering on process.

In more modern times a whole list of fancy deodorants became available to rub on the lamb and up the ewe's nostrils. They worked on ewes that had good mothering instincts, driven by having plenty of milk.
Keb hoose (left) and Shepherd's hut on Hareshaw common

The keb hoose was, and still is, a sturdy, rectangular stone ‘house’, complete with door, small window and either slate or ‘tin’ (corrugated iron) roof. It would measure roughly 12ft x 9ft (3.5m x 2.8m) and was built with mortar between the stones to make it weather proof.

Inside it may have an earth floor or be flagged or cobbled with stones from the nearby burn. In one corner there is often a small fire place and a chimney through the roof – useful for heating up the tar pot for marking a sheep or water to wash a wound or make the herd’s tea.

There would be at least one shelf and even a rough cupboard. Thus the keb hoose was fully equipped to administer first aid to the flock as required, to provide a welcome shelter for the herd in rough weather (and a fire in winter), and act as a useful store place for a wide assortment of shepherding equipment. Quite often it would have so many accumulated ‘essentials’ that there was hardly enough room for the herd!

Among the variety of things stored within its cosy walls you would be likely to find anything from an empty tin of Cooper’s dip to an old clay pipe, from a pair of rusty shears to a milking stool. This list comes from a keb hoose near Saughtree, just over the Scottish Border from Kielder.

It contained several empty buckets, holed and handle- less; a heap of mouldy sacking; a tangle of binder twine; assorted walking sticks, with or without the regulation crook; a tar pot and a collection of stirring sticks; a selection of brands for horn burning; two pairs of rusty shears; a short length of cow chain; a small pile of damp logs, a pail of wet coal, a paraffin tin (empty) and a poker.

Old coats and jackets full of rips and holes, but may yet turn a bit of hill drizzle; a row of bottles on the shelf containing who knows what selection of magic cures, drenches and tonics; a tin of Hilston’s foot rot ointment; an old paring knife that trimmed its last sheep’s foot twenty years ago; a pair of wellies, missing one left boot; a draining spade minus its shank; assorted empty beer bottles; one oilskin legging, ripped, and above the fireplace, a battered tin kettle, a mouldy teacup and a very cracked and tannin encrusted teapot.

The cracked and uneven concrete floor was layered with generations of mud from countless booted feet and drifts of bracken and grass blown under the ill-fitting door, adorned of course with the inevitable horse shoe. The whole place had a wonderful nostalgic whiff of Cooper's dip, disinfectant (Jey's fluid), wet wool, wet dogs, soot and wood smoke that brought back memories of long days of sheep gatherings, of days clipping and dipping, warm ones and wintry ones but most of all happy ones.

General purpose hut at High Green that could be used as a keb hoose

December 20, 2008

The Dosin ‘O the Hoggs- Part 2


This a famous and much-loved poem and song of Northumbrian shepherds and country folk at functions such as Border Shepherds' suppers and rural gatherings. It tells the story of the clostridial disease of sheep (mainly of young hoggs) called 'braxy', and what little could be done to prevent it in the days before vaccines.

The poem was composed by Billy Bell who was born in Riccarton in 1862, but spent most of his life in Byrness where he worked as a roadman for the upper Redesdale Road Board and then the County Council from about 1883 to 1933. He died in 1941.

Over his lifetime, he wrote more than 350 poems in lined exercise books. When his widow died these notebooks were rescued by a neighbour Mrs S. Rogerson.


The dosin 'o the hoggs
The back end again is wi’ us and the wund blaas cauld and chill
And mighty hoar frosts whiten o’er each valley and each hill.
The moorland herds are at it wi’ their usefu’ collie dogs
Busy pairtin’ aa’ and sheddin’ for the dosin’ o’ the hoggs.

Auld Grumpy she’s been dieted on cows new milk and grass
Her dung collected an’ aal stirred up intae a sickly mess.
A glessfu’ doon each throat is teemed, then oot ontae the foggs
For four and twenty hoors completes the dosin’ o’ the hoggs.

Aa spiered o’ ma freend Danny. Aa spiered o’ Jock o’ the Nick
They aa’ declared for sickness ‘twas a glorious specific.
But Wullie o’ the Seven Sykes said he wad bet his clogs,
‘Twas just an auld wife’s fancy, was the dosin’ o’ the hoggs.

Aa says, “ Ye surely dinna think it does nee guid ava’”
“Na na,” says he “Last year we dosed, Aa hed an aafu’ Fall.
Next mornin’ fifteen lyin’ deed, as cauld and stiff as logs.”
“Na,na,” says he “Aa’ll no believe o’ the dosin’ o’ the hoggs”

Wi opinion sae divided, whee hes yin tae believe?
If ye dose them they will sicken, if ye dinna they’ll no’ leeve.
This amuses mony an auld herd as through his flock he jogs.
It’s a varry kittle business, is the dosin’ o’ the hoggs.

Author unknown. Any information would be appreciated.

August 5, 2008

The Shepherd's Crook - a brief history

By Dr Clive Dalton

History
A crook, staff or stick has been a shepherd’s multi-purpose tool-of-trade since man first herded sheep. It has even become a religious symbol for high-ranking clergy to show their responsibility for their flocks.

A stick has many uses. It’s a support for walking over rough terrain as in New Zealand high country mustering; a means of catching ewes and lambs around the neck or legs, and a defence weapon against flock predators.

Photo shows me at The University of North Wales, Bangor (1956-59) during a lambing collecting data for my Ph.D. My trusted Hazel stick with Blackface ewe's horn handle never let me down. I did have problems with the dog though, as it worked to commands in Welsh!


Few shepherds ever had money to buy a stick, even if they were available. Sticks in shops were for sale to tourists, so unless an old shepherd and stick dresser gave you a stick, the only option for a young shepherd was to start and make their own, hoping they’d get some help from a local expert who would reveal his secrets!

I was lucky enough to be given my first stick at age13 by a noted Border Shepherd, Michael Anderson, when I plucked up enough courage to ask him how to bend a sheep’s horn. He was generous with his knowledge and honoured me with a stick. It was a memorable visit to his workshop with few tools but much wisdom.

But a shepherd’s stick is more than a tool of trade; it also makes a personal statement about the owner so you‘d never criticise a fellow worker’s stick, no matter how ugly it was.

So it’s easy to see how the craft of stick dressing developed into a competitive art form, with one shepherd trying to beat his mates on the next farm, in the next valley or in my birthplace in Northumberland, across the Border. There was intense competition among shepherds for sticks to be presented to Royalty, so their secrets became even more jealously guarded.

This all changed, thankfully for the better in 1951, by the formation of “The Border Stick Dressers Association (BDSA) at the home of Mr J. McGuffie in the College Burn valley in the shadow of “The Cheviot” hill on the English side of the Scottish Border.

Their first patron was the Duke of Northumberland, and the first president was Mr George Snaith. George without doubt was the most famous stick dresser of all time who turned the craft into a mind-boggling art form. I had the enormous privilege of visiting his workshop with few tools and no electricity. He did all his intricate artistic work in a cold shed illuminated by a paraffin lamp, with a pocket knife he made himself. Some of his massive stick collection is now housed in Alnwick Castle while his relatives hold the rest.

The BDSA aims were to keep alive the dying craft, to help fellow stick dressers obtain horns and shanks, and to have demonstrations and competitions (for prize money) at shows and to appoint judges.

Contacts:
Border Stick Dressers Association. Contact Wilf Laidler (see below).
Laidler, W. (2007?). Border Stick Dressers Association. The first 50 years.
Contact Wilf Laidler, 18 Crumstone Court, Killingworth, Newcastle-upon-Tyne, NE 12 6SZ.

This Association fortunately has widened interest in the craft far beyond shepherds who are a dying breed world wide, but in 1996 the European Union nearly regulated it out of business. They brought in a regulation which deemed that the head of all sheep and goats (with the exception of the tongue) had to be incinerated to prevent the spread of Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy (BSE).

However, a massive stick dressers’ campaign in 2000 won the day with the British and EU parliaments, so the use of tups‘ horns was still allowed. What sweetened the victory was the acceptance of the Prince of Wales to be one of the Patrons of the Association.


Stick types
1. Straight staffs. Made from stout sticks of native timbers such as Manuka or Lancewood.
2. Thumb sticks. These are made from sticks with a natural V near the top used for the walker‘s thumb. Deer antler is sometimes used to make the V and it’s joined to the shank with a spigot on the shank fitting a hole in the horn.
3. Wooden headed sticks. These are cut out of a solid block of wood from which the sapling shank is growing.
4. Horn headed sticks. These are made from animal horns, usually rams but goats and cattle horns can be used.

Horns in New Zealand
1. Merino. These are good but tend to be thin and don’t have the mass of horn seen in the Drysdale or Dorset Horn.
2. Drysdale. Ideal horns but very low numbers available.
3. Dorset Horn. Ideal horns but low numbers available.
4. Goats. There are large numbers of feral goats and horns of bucks grow very long. There is not a great bulk of horn to work on.
5. Cattle. Not very suitable to work on as there is very little solid end.


The stick pictured I made from a Wiltshire Horn ram's horn. It would be classed as a 'plain stick' in contrast to a 'fancy stick' .
The shank is Hazel wood.

The Hazel (Corylus avellana)
The hazel is the 'Rolls Royce' of stick shanks. It's very light to carry and use, but the fibres in the wood make it very strong and will bend a long way before it will break. If a stick shank does break, it's usually not a clean break but more of a split and tearing of the fibres, and you see many old shepherds' sticks rescued with electrical insulating tape.

Hazel trees showing their growth form which encourages suckers
from the base and lower branches. The suckers make the stick shanks.

The main advantage of the Hazel is that it is very easy to coppice and produced new growth from the base. So traditionally this was used for barrel hoops and hurdles for folding stock. They were also used in hedging where they were easily bent to bind and keep the top branches of the Hawthorn hedge in place once it had been cut and bent over.

In early British history Hazels were use in wattle-and-daub huts and half-timbered buildings in areas (with chalk areas) where timber, stone and clay were hard to come by.
See H.L.Edlin (1949). British Woodland Trees. Batsford Ltd.

A good day's stick hunt
Below is a mouth-watering heap (to a stick dresser) of Hazel shanks cut from the trees in the above picture. They will take a year to dry. It's very important not to tell anyone else where you got them from.


A stick in good hands
This is Arthur Cowan, aged 94, an icon of a Kiwi. He fought in North Africa to get rid of Romel then in the Italian campaign in WW11, spent time in a German prison camp. He returned to farm hill country near Otorohanga in the North Island of New Zealand and has dedicated his latter years to conservation. He is never idle, planting native trees, preserving bush, and educating others to the wonder of New Zealand landscape.

I was very proud to make him a stick - which as you can see is in very good hands.


More information
Google 'Shepherd's Staves' for more information on the history of the shepherd's stick.