Showing posts with label culture. Show all posts
Showing posts with label culture. Show all posts

December 18, 2009

Kielder viaduct - A North Tyne icon

By Donald Clegg and Clive Dalton


View of the Bakethin resevoir from the Kielder viaduct

Victorian engineers

This wonderful example of Victorian engineering fortunately survived two major threats - the closure of the Riccarton-Newcastle railway line, and the the flooding of the upper Tyne valley to form the Kielder resevoir.

The viaduct was designed by John Furness Tone to get the railway across the Deadwater burn at an angle, and to do this, the contractors William Hutchinson and Peter Nicholson of Newcastle-upon-Tyne used the 'skew arch' construction, where stone masons cut and dressed each individual stone to be laid along helical courses for the seven arches with the longest span of 12m. There are three piers in the water which were an added challenge.

The bridge plaque describes Nicholson as a 'pioneer geometrician who worked out how the stones should be cut. Imagine the time he would have put into the mathmatics of that, and how quickly it would be done today with 'Computer Assisted Drafting' (CAD). All the plans would be hand drawn and copies made by hand - no digital scanning or copying machines.

This construction was not unique to Kielder and was used on other bridges on both the North British and Wansbeck line. Examples were the bridge near Chollerton station for rail over the road the bridge for road and rail across the river Rede at Reedsmouth (completed in 1861), and the road bridge over the old line path near Scotsgap's old station. So the Kielder viaduct would not be the first structure on which the technique was used - but it's certainly the most spectacular on the line.

Words on plaque at Kielder viaduct
'In 1969 after being in use for 100 years this viaduct was preserved for the public by the Northumberland and Newcastle Society through the generosity of many donors. The viaduct was constructed in 1862 to carry the North Tyne railway and is a notable example of Victorian engineering. It is a rare and the finest surviving example of the skew arch form of construction. This required that each stone in the arches should be individually shaped in accordance with the method evolved by Peter Nicholson of Newcastle-upon-Tyne, a pioneer geometrician in this field'.

Time on the job
The job was started in 1858 and finished in 1862 - which was not bad going considering the technology of the time. The quarrying and carting the stone to the job with horse and cart would be a major job, and then all the dressing of the stone by the masons would follow that. Then without modern cranes and hoists, imagine the work in putting up the scaffolding and then getting the dressed stones up into the archways. Each stone would have been a two-man lift.

Owners
The viaduct was a joint project between the Border Counties Railway (BCR) and the North British Railway (NBR) which merged in 1860 into the NBR to extend the line up the North Tyne valley to Riccarton junction. The hoped-for bonanze of coal from Plashetts pit for Scottish mills never happened, and the Edinburgh-Newcastle route via Hexham never competed with the much faster route via Berwick on Tweed.

In 1923 the line and the all the bridges on it became the property of the London and North Eastern Railway (LNER) and then to British Rail in 1948 before closure for passengers in 1956 and freight in 1958. The Bellingham Heritage Centre has a special display about the railway - see their website for information.


The history of the line is well explained by G.W.M. Sewell in his book "The North British Railway in Northumberland (1991), Merlin Books. ISBN 0-86303-613-9.

This is an outstanding book with some marvelous photos of stations, trains and people. It also includes detailed plans of all the railways and sidings at each station. It has been reprinted twice.




Because the Duke of Northumberland owned the shooting lodge near by and was a major land owner, he must have had enough influence to dictate the style of the bridge which ended up with what look like battlements along the parapet and imitation arrow slits.

Blacksmith's art
The Duke would be very pleased to see the works of art which have now fill the gaps in the battlement along the parapet.

These were made by blacksmiths in response to a competition.




Theme: bee and honeycomb











Note the 'Border Counties Railway (NBR), North British Railway (NBR) and the final owners the London and North Eastern Railway
( LNER)' - and the passing train.







A wonderful montage reflecting railway and river.














Fish, eels and reeds in the river.











Brambles ready for picking












Nice big salmon moving up stream to spawn.

September 26, 2009

Northumberland Border Shows - Bellingham and Falstone 2009

North Tyne Agricultural Shows

The Agricultural Show has been a highlight of Northumberland village life for well over 100 years, and two of the best examples of these events in the county are the Bellingham Show and the Falstone Border Shepherd's Show.

Village folk used to plan and record events as happening before or after 'The Show"! If you couldn't recall the actual date of an event, then the show was the best reference point that everyone could relate to.

These events have changed dramatically over the years as society has changed, and to many 'owld folk', the modern shows are nothing like the events of the past when there were more folk, more animals and a greater diversity of events.

But the shows are still a great valley event enjoyed by many, and Don Clegg's photos from the 2009 shows are testimony to this.

More about Bellingham Show can be found on:

http://woolshed1.blogspot.com/2008/12/bellingham-show-by-clive-dalton-part-1.html
http://woolshed1.blogspot.com/2008/12/bellingham-show-by-clive-dalton-part-2.html

Slideshow of Bellingham Show
by Don Clegg





Slideshow of Falstone Show by Don Clegg




Other Good Show resources on the web

Falstone Show: http://www.falstoneshow.co.uk/

Bellingham Show: http://www.bellinghamshow.com/

Good website with background about Bellingham: http://communities.northumberland.gov.uk/Bellingham.htm

The photos on that website are here http://communities.northumberland.gov.uk/Bellingham.htm

Another blog that talks about the show is: http://blog.tarset.co.uk/2009/08/falstone-show-what-day.html

The Northumberland local government communities website with background about Falstone has a few show references: http://communities.northumberland.gov.uk/Falstone.htm with lots of great pictures under the picture link here http://communities.northumberland.gov.uk/Falstone_C4.htm

August 6, 2009

Northumberland traditions: Making a Geordie cracket (stool)


By Dr Clive Dalton


What's a cracket?

In Victorian times and into the 1950s, houses in the North East of England used to be littered with stools called crackets! Every house would have at least one, and many would have two (a large one for grownups and a small one for the bairns).

During the second world war, furniture was rationed and expensive. it was called the "Utility" brand and had the bare minimum of wood and nails in it. So many a cracket gave stalwart service during these times, supporting North East folk in their air-raid shelters, sheltering from Nazi bombs blasting the Tyneside shipyards .

You could find these simple stools by the kitchen fireside, by the back door steps to sit on to take your boots off, or to smoke a pipe of baccy, by the side of the bed to hold the alarm clock and candle, and of course in the nettie (toilet) to hold the candle, torch and magazine.

Grandaughter Imogene Dalton on her new
cracket - maybe texting Granda!

Imogen's Dad playing with his cracket 35 years previously
Seems to have a traffic problem under the bridge


Pitmen's crackets

The cracket evolved down the pit and then progressed to the miner's cottage. Crackets were an essential bit of gear below ground, especially when pitmen hewed coal in narrow seams. They sat on them if the seam was high enough, rested their heads and/or shoulders on them when lying down to work, and could put them below their thighs when crouched working 'on their hunkers'.

Try pretending to use a pick with a sideways action with you head bent low while kneeling down, or sitting flat on your backside. You soon realise how much easier it is on your back if you are sitting on a low stool (cracket). The interesting thing is that the cracket need not be very high to do the job.

When a pitman moved on, he carried his pick in one hand and his cracket in the other (with one or more fingers through the hole or slit in the seat). The cracket was also used to sit on when a pitman stopped to have his bait (snack), and have a bit 'crack' to his marras (mates) at the same time. It was a lot more comfortable than sitting on your backside on hard lumps of coal!

When a pitman got home from work, he sat on a cracket to remove his dirty pit clothes before getting into the bath set in front of the fire by his wife. He wasn't allowed to sit on a chair and cover it in coal dust.

The Geordie word 'crack' (conversation) and 'cracket' are clearly linked. In fact there's no better place to have a bit crack than sitting on a cracket! But 'crack' is a widely used Irish word for a chat, and plenty of Irish folk including my Dolan ancestors went to the Tyneside coal mines at Clara Vale from Ireland via Cumberland. So the origin of cracking and crackets maybe goes back to the Emerald Isle. Folk in the Durham and the northern end of the Yorkshire Dales also have a bit crack and have crackets too.

Miner's crackets were made from any old timber down the pit or lying around the pithead. There were boxes that held explosives, the flat bits of wood that sat on top of props to keep the roof up, and the sawn off ends of pit props. Nobody down a pit was concerned what their cracket looked like - so there was little point in adding decoration. The coal dust soon added a patina to the wood. With no woodworking skills and not time to waste, a small box without bottom and an hole in the top would do.

Simple structure
Crackets came in all sizes, but the majority were small. They were nearly always square or oblong, but some were round and clearly made from a slice off the top of a log or pit prop with three or four legs fitted into holes in the seat. The biggest crackets seen in houses would be 600 mm high but most were around 250mm high.

The only tools needed to make a cracket were a hammer, saw, nails and a brace and bit to bore the finger hole. A red hot poker could also be used to bore the finger hole or slot. Nail heads were punched down but the holes rarely filled. A decent finished cracket for the house would be given a coat of varnish, which over the years went from dark brown to black though heat from the fire which would also bubble the old varnish.

Everybody had a hammer, and if they didn’t own a saw (which cost a week’s wages), they borrowed a neighbour’s. New nails were never purchased as there were always plenty of bent ones from old timber that could be straightened. Over the years, nails used to work loose and the cracket would start to show a bit of 'lateral motion' and squeak if you jiggled on it which kids loved to do. So every now and again, the nails would be knocked in again using the nob on the end of the poker which always stood by the fire.

The other hazard of old crackets that had felt a lot of fireside heat, was that the wood on the edges of the seat would start to splinter, and you'd get 'spelks' in your backside or legs. These splinters required regular surgery from a pocket knife. The women folk were the first to complain about spelks, especially when their precious stockings got caught!

You never heard anyone in the street criticise other folks' crackets, which happened often with other furniture, or the blackleading on the fire grate and oven door. The cracket didn’t have enough status for snobs to get their noses in the air over. Crackets were crackets, and not items of furniture in most folks' eyes!

You could always add a bit of fancy woodwork to your cracket to personalise it, and this was mainly done by adding some some fancy shapes to the sides of the seat. In the old days you needed a bow saw for this, as there were no bandsaws or routers at that time. It's these sides that give the cracket it's strength, and especially if they are set into the legs and not just nailed on.

The purpose of the arch or 'V' cut in the solid ends of the cracket is to make feet, which allow it to stand easier on uneven ground. You can stand a bit of 'rock and roll' when seated on your cracket but not too much.

Most crackets didn't have angled legs. They were made with legs at right angles to to the seat which made the joinery much easier. Putting the legs in at an angle, made the cracket much more stable with less risk of 'cowping off'.

When does a 'cracket' become a bench-seat or form?
A traditional cracket was always a 'one-seater' and if you were ever tempted to make a 'two-seater' or longer, then you were into a different kind of construction because it became a 'form' or bench seat and the legs needed wide feet and extra bracing between them. So after about 18 inches long, you were in the bench seat business.

The womenfolk's burned legs
You could always tell women who had spent time (probably too much) sitting on their crackets close up to the fire, legs apart getting warmed, because the skin on their legs and knees (and possibly higher up!) over time was burned into dark brown blotches. It was not a becoming feature but we young lads didn't dare look too intently! Men never exposed their bare legs to the fire so it was not a male issue!

A retired medical friend who worked in Cockermouth as a young doctor said he saw the condition often, mainly in old ladies. The medical term for it he tells me is 'Erythema ab igne'. Any non-Latin Geordie could guess at this as the fancy name for 'burned skin' or 'cracket overexposure'.

On cold winter nights (before central heating), the trick was to pull your cracket up as near to the fire as possible, with legs apart gathering in as much heat as possible, to counteract the chill on your back from the freezing draught whistling along the floor from below the kitchen door.

I was always convinced that this chill started in the Ural mountains of central Russia, then cooled even more coming across Europe and the the North sea, till it finally entered our kitchen and hit the back of my crouched body snuggling up to the fire to keep warm. So you ended up burning on your front and freezing on your back. We often took our overcoats off when we came home and laid them at the bottom of the back door to stop the chill.

The only solution was to move the cat and pull the cracket up even closer to the fire, especially if the last bit of coal or log was in its dying phase. The cat had an advantage as it could hop on to the top of the 'set pot' (if the lid was firmly in place), or the shelf in front of the oven door to get extra heat.

Uses for a cracket
I have made hundreds of crackets over the years for the children of family and friends (see Ella below), and it's been fascinating visiting their houses long after the kids have grown up and left home (if they haven't taken their crackets with them). You find the crackets bruised, bashed, dinted, stained, the varnish long gone, the legs a bit loose but rarely broken after many years of stalwart service.

I even feel a pang of pride in seeing and 'old friend' again, and how long this simple bit of furniture has lasted. It's a great thrill to hear someone (whose name you have forgotten) tell you - "I've still got the cracket you made me when I was little". You just have to front up and ask them who they are!

Ella busy on the cracket I made her.


List of uses from my years of observation:
More suggestions are welcome
  1. A child’s first seat at small table.
  2. For small children when out if nappies to reach and climb on to toilet.
  3. For small children to carry around and reach things they shouldn't!
  4. To chew on to help teething. 
  5. To play dropping the ball through the hole or putting a soft toy animal down there.
  6. Turned upside down, a  sledge to push a doll or Teddy around on the carpet.
  7. Used upside down as dodgem car or tank to attack another cracket.
  8. Bridge for toy train to go under and drop bombs through the hole.
  9. On its side as a fort or defence barrier to hide behind and fire through the hole.
  10. Stool for short grownups to stand on and reach things.
  11. Step to stand on when painting, paperhanging or cleaning widows.
  12. To stand beside armchair for coffee cup and scone.
  13. For nursing mum to put one foot on to baby support baby's head at the breast.
  14. To put foot on when playing the guitar
  15. Footstool for general use, especially for under the computer desk.
  16. Spare seat in kitchen by the fire, to squeeze in between armchairs.
  17. To sit close up to the fire as fire dies down.  Risks skin burns over time in crutch.
  18. Seat at backdoor for lacing up or unlacing boots.
  19. To stand close to fire to dry small things e.g. wet gloves or newspaper.
  20. Rest over one or both knees as small table or writing desk for laptop.
  21. Seat outside the garden shed or pigeon to watch the world or pigeons go by.
  22. Milking stool for small cow.
  23. To stand on in the stable to help reach up and  get the bridle over the horse's ears.
  24. Stand for a pot plant (especially an Aspidistras).
  25. Playing dare with toddler to put their finger in the hole to see if Granda's nasty is at home!
Twin sisters Scarlett & Isobella busy on their crackets
 

The girls sharing a cracket to make hand washing - and mischief easier 



Jessica who has just learned to shuffle on to her cracket
 

Plan for cracket

The finished job using this plan is shown at the end of the blog
Assembly
1. Cut the wood to size and sand it.


2. Bore the 40mm finger hole in centre of the seat so you can get at it easily. Choose the better side of the wood for the top. An oblong slot for 2-3 fingers is also a good idea.

3. The seat needs to be about 350mm long and each leg about 90mm high.

4. Cut the ends of the side rails at an angle (45 degrees). It needs to be at least 40mm deep.

5. Glue and nail the rails on the underside of the seat. Mark on the base where the legs will sit. Make a cardboard template to measure the bits to be cut out of the legs to fit inside the side rails.




6. Mark and cut the angles on the top and bottom of the legs. Take care to get this right. 60 degrees is about right.

7. Bore small holes in legs, 80mm from base for the apex of the archway.

8. Mark the archway in legs leaving 50mm for the feet when cut out.


9. The tricky bit
. Cut the side notches out of top of the legs so they fit tightly inside the side rails at the correct angle.
Tip
: Use the template described above to get the same depth and angle of the notches right on the legs.

10. Be careful when cutting out these notches. A good rule is to leave the pencil mark on the wood.

11. Take a bit of time to make sure the legs fit well, so there are no gaps on the sides or where they fit the seat. 12. Make sure legs don’t extend too far beyond the end of the seat.

13. Glue the legs in place, but only put a few nails in until you see everything fits well. Don't knock the initial nails right in as you may need to pull them out again when fitting the legs.

14. Pencil a line across the seat to get the nails in right place. Hold the legs in the vice to make sure you put the nails in at the right angle.



15. Don't finish off the nailing until the glue is all dry.

16. Punch in the nail heads. Fill holes if desired. I think the nail heads add character!

17. Sand off all rough edges and varnish.

18. Carve or burn the new owner's name and the date of manufacture on the cracket. Your handiwork may become an heirloom!

Warning for modern times
When you make a cracket for a child these days, remember they grow up fast, and you have no control over what the cracket will be used for after that. It's scary to find crackets being used by large, overweight folk to stand on to reach up for all sorts of things. So in today's world of obsession with 'Health and Safety' , make sure you use a good wood glue and the correct length nails. A good screw in the leg along with two nails is a good idea.


A cracket gallery
Thanks to friends who have sent photos and specifications of their crackets.
Go 'cracket hunting' and send me pictures and details!


Clive Dalton's cracket
Origin: Made in 1980s for family.
Wood: New Zealand Rimu.
Size: Seat 350mm x 200mm (same as in plan above)
Height: 100mm
Finish: Varnish
Current use: Stands by armchair to hold coffee cup and scones. Used by small visitors for their afternoon tea sitting at a small table.

























Helen Brown's cracket
Origin: Possibly from Aunt's old house or in a job lot from Rothbury mart. Age unknown.
Wood: Pine ?
Size:Top is 14 inches x 8 1/2 inches
Height: 11 inches high
Finish: Paint
Current use: A general purpose seat, especially to sit on with back to fire with laptop resting on settee.





























Nancy McLauchlan's cracket
A three-legged stool - still called a cracket in the Borders. Could be called a traditional milking stool to stand easily on uneven ground.
Origin:
Made by Nancy's uncle - Alex F. Miller when apprenticed to the family firm of Joiners and Undertakers in Stow, Scotland 1906-1908. They are still in business after 130 years.
Wood: Oak. Relief carving on top.
Size: Top diameter 9.5 inches. Height 8.5 inches.
Finish: Originally varnished but now has the patina of age.

Ernest Kirkby's crackets
Origins. Ernest has had these crackets for many years in his cottage in Weardale.
Wood: One is oak and the other stained pine.
Size: Round one 7 ins diameter. Square one is 9 inches x 6 inches
Height: Round one is 7 inches high. Square one is 6 inches high.
Finish: Original unknown. Now the patina of age.
Current use: Foot stools.




Don Clegg's Granny's cracket

(Comments by Don)
Origin: I think the whole stool was made by my Granda for Granny when she was about 20. As to its age, I reckon it must be over 120 years old. Granny used it as a footstool and little bairns were allowed to sit on it, if they were good!

Wood: The wood is oak and the legs were fixed by an unusual method. Each leg had a square tenon on top, which fitted into a square mortise on the underside of the stool. In addition, a square hole was cut through each leg just below the tenon, going right through the leg from side to side. A square peg was inserted through this hole so that it stuck out each side about 1 1/4ins, which was then screwed up to the stool with fat screws. No glue as far as I can discover. The legs were hand made and every one is different.

Size: 12in x 8in
Height: 6in
Finish: Probably started with varnish but now has the patina of age !
Current use: Now used as plant stand.

May 25, 2009

Northumbrian poetry: "The Great Daft Laddies' Waal" by Donald Clegg

Don Clegg (on left) and Tom Batey -resting after
completion of the " Great Daft Laddies Waal"



THE 'GREAT DAFT LADDIES' WAAL

By Donald Clegg

There is a little cottage standin’ on a windy Highland brae,
The bonniest Butt and Ben inventeed, definitely, Aa wad say.
Way, way up a hillside in an Aberdeenshor glen,
It belangs to school-day friends, that stay theor noo and then.

It hes a country garden, tended both by Tom and Beth
And a view ‘cross to the Grampians to make ye haad yor breath.
But the braeside nuw is slumpin’, Tom thinks it’s gan’in te faal.
So Tom and me decideed, we wad hev to build a Waal.

A waal to keep the garden up! It wad be quite a feature.
Strang, stoot and gappy too – a heme for ivvery creature.
Bords, moosees, bugs and beetles, it meks nee odds at aal.
It’d be a boon for wildlife, wad the buildin’ of the Waal.

We stumped aboot aal day wi’ lots of scratchin’ 'o wor heeds,
Amang brambles, burrs and nettles, and plenty other weeds.
We measured and stuck sticks in – an’ then we changed wor minds.
Wor heeds was fairly abuzzin’ with the choice of grand designs.

At last we got it settled, and decided on a corve.
Not ower big or ower hee – just moderate wad sorve.
Part 'o the top might just be right to mek a viewin’ bench
So, full of hell, we started oot to dig the footin’s trench.

The soil was lowse and sandy and, tho’ the dust blew int’ wor eyes
We raked aboot and fund a bowldor – just the varry size
To get the buildin’ under way - and two/three mair anaal
‘Twad be a simple process, wad be the buildin’ of the Waal!

Sand and cement at 4 to 1 was saen browt into play
And bowldor followed muckle bowldor aal throughoot the day
We sweated, strained and laboured till the dyke began to grow
‘Till at last we reached the other end – as far as we meant to go.

Noo we’d done the footin’s, it was time to build the coursees,
So we pulled and pushed mair stones aboot, like two dementeed horsees.
Wi’ pinch bar and sledge hammor, we winkled bowldors oot
That hedn’t seen the light 'o day since Adam was aboot!

Tho’ bodies creaked and muscles groaned, we went on wi’ wor labours
Just stoppin’ yence or twice to a crack wi’ passin’ neebors.
Tea, coffee, sandwiches wor aall eaten in the shade,
Sittin’ in the wheelbarrow, or just leanin’ on the spade.

Some staenes wor easy worried oot, and quickly buildeed in
While some, nee mattor huw ye tried, ye simply couldn’t win!
But in spite of aal the akward yins, that seemed to be unwillin’
We soon got roond that problem, cos’ we used them for back-fillin’.

The day arrived for toppin’ oot, thor was a great debate.
“Where wad the initials gan? And what aboot the date?”
A flat stone from Northumberland was used to cap it aal
And we stood in admiration of wor grand, completed Waal.

It beats the one in China and Hadrian’s muckle dyke.
It beats that yin in Bykor, folks hev nivvor seen the like.
That yin in Borlin didn’t last for varry lang ataal
‘Cos it didn’t hev the craftsmen like the 'Great Daft Laddies’ Waal'.

It stands se strang and prood against the worst of Scottish weathor.
We think it’s got a canny chance of standin’ theor for ivvor.
So, if ye gan te Scotland and want somewheor to caal
Pop in to Aberdeenshor and see the 'Great Daft Laddies Waal'.

Falstone 2009

Profile of Tom Batey by Clive Dalton
Dr Tom Batey was born at Broomhill farm in West Woodburn where his parents farmed before moving 'doon country' to Gilchesters at Stamfordham in 1939. There Tom grew up and after his secondary schooling (where he met Don Clegg), he went on to Kings College, University of Durham in Newcastle upon Tyne where he did an agricultural degree specialising in soil chemistry.

While being the main stay on the home farm, Tom completed a Ph.D at Kings under Fred Hunter looking at the productivity of hill land in Northumberland. I can recall a memorable day with Tom up the Coquet 'howkin holes' on Blindburn, looking at the soil profiles and fencing some small plots to keep the yowes oot!

Tom spent the first part of his career working as a soil specialist for the UK Ministry of Agriculture 'doon sooth', initially in East Anglia then based at Reading. Then followed over 30 years teaching land use and soil management north of the Border at Aberdeen University. During this time he came to the deep sooth and had a short exchange at Lincoln College in New Zealand.

In his later career Tom acted as a soil consultant, specialising in assessing damage to the land following the installation of oil and gas pipelines. He loves 'sittin aroond a hole in the grund' spouting on about soils to anyone who will listen- including quite a few farmers in Australia! He and his wife Beth are in retirement in Aberdeenshire, where Tom recently bought himself a set of Northumbrian pipes! Now he can sit on his new waal and practise.



In 1988, Tom published an excellent book called 'Soil Husbandry - A practical guide to the use and management of soils'.
ISBN 0-951-3605-0-7.

Without question, it's the best book available if you want good, easy-to-read basic information on soils and their care, because of Tom's complete understanding of the role of science in practical farming.




May 10, 2009

Northumberland poetry. Ode to North Tyne by A. Charlton, (1946),

Bill Charlton had a newspaper cutting of this poem for may years, and found it again in 2009. A hand-written note on the bottom of the cutting said, "returned to Westmorland House, Wark-on-Tyne, 14.6.46".

It looks as if the author must have returned from his home address of "Hyde, Wareham" (printed with his name at the bottom of the poem), to visit his birthplace at Wark-on-Tyne. The poem has clearly been an emotional response to his visit (probably his last). There is no information on who A. Charlton was. The poem is copied as printed with no verses.

Bill says there was a Charlton who lived in the Black Bull at Wark called William Charlton 1873  but moved to Farm the Battlesteads  in1889. He also owned Sutty Row Colliery as Charlton Collieries Ltd.    Perhaps this A. Charlton was maybe an Albert, but who knows.  This information came from.  "Bellingham North Tyne and Redesdale" By Ian Roberts and  Moira West.


Oh! North Tyne, dear North Tyne, the home of my heart
Thy memory will never away from my heart,
The home of the dauntless, the fair and the free,
Whose deeds are recorded on land and on sea.
Thy scenes are enchanting through moorland and lea,
From Peel Fell to Hexham on the way to the sea.
Other dales may be fairer, but none can compare
With the expanse of beauty, romantic and rare.
A portion of nature, not other can share, nor compare
With kind hearts, still beating there.
From Falstone to Reedsmouth, and down to the Clint,
Of beauty and grandeur there’s never a stint.
By Lea Hall and Houxty, Chipchase, Houghton and Wall,
The scene of my young days sweet memories recall.
And where’er I may go, or whate’re may betide,
There’s no place to me like my bonny Tyneside.
It was at Wark village I first saw the light
That has spluttered and flickered through the passage of life
And has shown, through those years of pleasure and strife,
That the forces of might still overrule right.
It’s some consolation we certainly know
That whate’er might betide, where’er we may go
With all our errors, or favours we’ve won
We’ll just leave this world as rich as we come.
Old schoolmates have gone, some now far away
In far distant countries our Flag to display,
With sons of the Empire they march hand-in-hand,
To uphold traditions of the dear Motherland.
Some days we shall meet them, and welcome them back
(Those dauntless defenders of the old Union Jack,
To the home of the childhood, where we oft used to play;
In woodland or meadow by the Bonny Brae.
Oh! Bonnie North Tyne, I hope to see thee once more,
Tho’ miles lie between me and thy happy shore,
I dwell among strangers far from my old home,
Through scruples of others, no fault of my own.
I wish all folk in thy valley, all good things that be,
And that fair winds may guide them on life’s troubled sea
To a haven of happiness, unfettered and free,
To list to thy murmurings in “Sweet Liberty”.
At Birtley my loved ones are sleeping their lane,
They never won fortune or craved for fame.
Without fear or favour they’d nought to reflect,
They lived out their lives without blemish or shame.
Till God called them to join Him elect,
By His will they shall sleep and be ever at rest
On the land of their childhood, the dearest and best.
There I hope to join them and lie by their side.
Mid’st flowers of the forest, and sweet scented pine,
No thought of the morrow, of time or of tide,
When God chooses to call me from Bonnie North Tyne.

May 7, 2009

Northumberland. North Tyne and Rede: Shops & businesses (1930-1960)

Contributors:
Clive Dalton. Don Clegg & Sylvia Clegg (nee Armstrong), Les Armstrong, Geoff Dagg, Bill Charlton, Nancy McLauchlan (nee Brown), Ken Prebble, Philip Easton. Paul Salisman, Noel Wanless.


When you think back, there were an enormous number of hard working business people up the North Tyne and Rede providing dedicated service to their local customers for generations. They were pillars of the community, and it’s hard to think of them without an anecdote coming to mind, and many of their names bringing back a smile. We contributors have searched our aging memory banks, and made a few notes below before it’s too late, and we all go to join them!

The most significant developments came after the war, when some of the local businesses didn’t just have their shop; they went mobile as vehicles and petrol became easier to obtain. So their service changed by taking business to their customers on foot carrying a basket. or by bicycle, then by horse and cart, and finally by van or delivery wagon. So customer service advanced from 2 mph to a break-neck speed, to at least 40 miles per hour (flat out down hill) in just a few years.

Noble Street
Dewar Burrell
During the war there was Dewar Burell. He lived in Percy Terrace with his sister Isa, (next to W.J. Cairns the Council School master) and she used to visit us to promote 'The Independent Order of Rechabites' that promoted ‘abstinence from all intoxicating liquors as beverages to protect the British people, and the whole human family’. Whew! What made her message worthwhile for me (Clive) was that if you signed up, you got a free unsharpened yellow-painted pencil with a rubber on the top. What a luxury that was, as wartime pencils were not painted and were made from wood not even fit for kindling sticks.

Nancy McLauchlan remembers Cissie Little visiting them promoting the Rechabites and wanting her Dad to enroll her in the Order. Nancy said - “I have a Rechabite mug - still somewhere in the loft packed away. Dad refused to sign for me to be abstinent - he said that what I did after I was 18 had nowt to do with him! I never saw any of the yellow pencils - you lot up in Noble Street must have got the lot!”

Dewar Burrell worked for Don Mason and started Don’s mobile delivery service with a large heavy shop bike, with a frame on the front to hold a massive basket. He pushed the bike up from the little wooden shop in the village and parked it at the end of Noble street. He then carried the large basket to each door on his shoulder - his main offering I remember being kippers! Dewar actually stank of kippers!

Stanley Telfer the butcher
Stanley and his wife were the Bellingham butchers for decades. Stanley drove around in a little green Morris van from which he serviced his customers - chewing gum most of the time. He drove up to Noble street where at Bensons No 1, he switched off the engine, opened the back doors, assembled and hung up his scales (which were of the balance bar kind with two pans), and chopped your order on a solid slab of wood across the back of the van. His wee van smelled wonderfully of fresh meat.

With your order wrapped in greaseproof paper, and your money in his leather bag (covered in fat) hanging around his shoulder, he didn’t start the engine to move to the next house – he just let the brake off and pushed the van slowly along the back lane to save petrol.

Stanley also provided another service – with his shotgun. He used to be asked to go to the station at weddings when the bride and groom were leaving on the train for their honeymoon, where he would let off a couple of barrels into the air to wish them good luck. It always brought screams from the unsuspecting well-wishers and ordinary passengers. These were not shot-gun weddings by the way incase you thought he only serviced these!

Billy Butcher
On another day of the week, Billy Forster (Billy Butcher) came from Lanehead to service other folk in the street. Billy had a little blue van and performed his service similar to Stanley’s. Many folk reckoned Billy Butcher’s meat was better, and Nancy McLauchlan remembers her mother getting meat sent down on the train, which Billy must have taken to Tarset station for her.

Nichol’s of Wark
Tommy Nichol’s immaculate red vans came twice a week and covered a wide area of the North Tyne and parts of the Rede. They operated the business from their shop and bakery in Wark, which employed many local folk, especially the lasses from up the valley. They could “ride te Wark te work’ on the regular bus service and not have to “waalk te work at Wark”.  These words were a test of your command of the local dialect!

Nichols had four vans and many of their drivers worked for them for years and became much loved and respected members of the community.

On the vans - Nellie Pigg, Dorothy Stevenson, Tommy Dodd, Cyril Cooper.
Baker - Norman Prentice - the bakery was up church lane. Ena Wood, Margie Wood, Ellie Moore
Shop Manager - Jimmy Proudlock
Office girls - Lucy Nixon, Annie Tait and Mavis Jackson.


McVeigh’s ice cream
After the war, the first luxury to arrive up the Tyne was ice cream in Roly McVeigh’s tiny little yellow-coloured Morris van, all the way from Wylam. It had a side cut out so Roly could turn around from the driver’s seat to dispense the ice cream. He was a large man so there was not much room. There was no mobile refrigerator unit roaring or Greensleeves music blasting the air – just a big insulated drum of crushed ice and one of cream. Mixing the two made rather crunchy ice cream put into a penny cornet or a sandwich, or he'd fill a cup for you.

Rington’s tea
About once a month, the Rington’s tea man arrived in a van from Newcastle, beautifully painted in the company’s dark green with gold writing corporate colours. On the side of the van was the logo of the Rington’s horse and cart, which was the means of delivery before vehicles. Most of us in Noble street were regular customers, and everyone had at least one Rington’s tea caddy on the mantelpiece, nice and handy for when the kettle boiled on the open range.

Chaffey’s laundry
Nancy McLauchlan remembers Chaffey’s laundry from Hexham with a van that used to come along Reedsmouth Road, but few folk used the service which was seen as a luxury by most working class folk and you'd have to be on your death bed before sending 'dorty claes' to the laundry man. Your neighbours would have done your 'wesh' before that anyway.

Coal
Hareshaw pit: About once a month ‘the coal wagon’ from Hareshaw pit called on a regular run, driven by a number of great characters over the years, such as Albert Dodd, Jim Bell and "Lasher"(Eddie Stephenson?). I don't remember the owner Barty Armstong every appearing among his clients though his son David did.

The drivers had to be ‘characters’ to put up with all the leg pulling, complaints and cheek from their many customers (inevitably the wives) . It was standard practice to give the deliveryman an earful about the dust and stone in the bottom of the last delivery that wouldn't burn. They had heard it all before of course!

Negotiating the 'coal hooses' had to be a tricky job. We had our coal house under the stairs in the back kitchen which they had to tip the coal in to – without making a mess or creating dust or else they'd get a 'gobul' from mother and maybe even a friendly clout for their cheek.

Plashetts pit: In the 1920s this was a thriving colliery with a siding at Plashetts station from which coal wagons arrived down a steep slope from the pit high up on a hill. There was a row of pit cottages, a shop and a school.

Pitmen and pit lads riding on the tramway in front of the cottages at Plashetts.


"Sutty Row" pit
: There was also a coal pit at "Sutty Row", Birtley where John Robson of Wark used to drive the wagon and deliver their coal.

Hesleyside pit. (by Bill Charlton): This was a small pit owned by Ned Jacobson who was an icon in Bellingham in the old days. I would often come across Ned sleeping in the hedge pretty drunk on my way home to the Croft from the local Friday/Saturday night Dances.

All you would hear when passing by was a whistle from the Hedge which was Ned with his big army overcoat on sound asleep. He'd just sleep it off there till morning, then wander back up to his house behind the pit. He used to have an old alarm clock hanging on a 6 inch nail on his gate with a sign saying "No Tick".

Hawkhope Hill Colliery
This was a small drift mine in Falstone which in 1910 employed around 20 men and provided local needs in the early 1900s.

The French onion man
This was my (Clive’s) Dad’s favourite caller, not because he’d fought and survived the 1914-18 war to rescue the French, but because he loved the onions. Monsieur in black beret pushed his bike up the hill from the village, festooned with straps of onions on the handle bars and cross bar.

He'd then take a pole that he carried on his crossbar to call at each door with a few straps on each end. Where he came from we never asked, and how he got his onions all the way from France to end up in Bellingham on a bike was another mystery that never concerned us. He must have come by train at some stage. Whereas Dewar Burrell smelled of kippers, this homme carried with him the more pleasant pong of les oignons.

Collin's Eyemouth fish
This service started soon after the war when motor transport allowed fish to be brought from Eyemouth to villages up the North Tyne and Rede and no doubt all points on the way. It sure was fresh. Prior to motor transport, I remember our parents talking of the 'Fisher lasses' who carried and sold their fish from baskets. How on earth they got from the coastal fishing villages is a marvel - the train would be the only possibility.

The rag and bone man
About twice year we’d hear the call ('ragbones') and get a visit from the rag and bone man with his pony and trap. We never knew where he was from, but he was in the business of collecting anything he could get for next to nowt.

His main currency was ‘sandy stone’ which is what our mothers used to decorate around the edge of the backdoor and front door steps, after they had been scrubbed with soap and water. When doing this they always wore a Hessian apron and not their normal ‘pinny’.

The knife sharpener
This bloke came on his bike and we Noble Street kids were fascinated to see him operating. He had a stone grindstone on the back of his bike which was driven from the back wheel when lifted off the ground on a stand. He then sat backwards on the bike pedaling in the normal direction, and held the knife or shears on the rotating stone wheel to grind an edge. Normally we sharpened our knives on the back door stone step which over the years ended up with a nice hollow curve in it.

Drapers (Davison and Forster) from the Holm
With Norman Waugh's drapers shop in Bellingham few of village families used their service. They were more providers of families who lived on farms, and especially the 'oot bye' folk nearer the border and Newcastleton (The Holm).

They each used to arrive in old enormous Ford cars, cigarettes permanently stuck in the middle of their mouths smouldering their mustaches. They went into their client’s house with enormous brown suitcases in each hand, extended to bursting point. They would measure men for suits and have them made in Scotland, and bring back the finished job some weeks later.

They were very good at their job and very efficient. Once for a joke I chall

Fenwick Newton of Mount Pleasant, Falstone in 1890 who was a travelling draper before the motor era. Photographer unknown. Source: Bellingham Parish Council. Photographer unknown.

Peggy Johnston’s shop

Peggy's shop 2009. The cow byre joined the shop to the left.

Peggy’s shop played a great part in the lives of those of us who lived in Noble Street, Percy Street and the better off folk in Percy Terrace. During the war she was our main source of sweets, after handing over our saved-up coupons from the buff coloured ration books. On rare occasions it was even possible with coupons to buy an orange from her shop. I (Clive) can still hear the tinkle of the bell on a spring on the shop door, which brought Peggy in her green overall out from the kitchen to stand behind the white scrubbed counter.

Her father Tommy Johnston had the few acres behind the shop on the way up to Noble Street, and also the fields below Percy Terrace and the railway. On this he grazed 2-3 Shorthorn cows and made hay for their winter fodder. So if you ran out of milk – a knock on their back door would always get your can filled, and an invite in to sit on the ‘langsettle’ in front of the window, to be interrogated about what you were up to, and what was going on along your street.

We kids loved Peggy, and everyone was delighted when she married Jim Bell who was a builder and a constant help for Peggy’s aging parents with the farm work.

Don Mason – Shop 1


The little wooden shop fitted in the corner where the road sign in this picture.

Not all shopkeepers had vans immediately after the war. Don Mason and his wife Maggie started in a little creosoted wooden shed that seemed to be stuck to the wall of the Demesne farm byre.

Maggie was a little red-faced woman with large Gypsy like earrings, and most of the year looked permanently chilled and wearing gloves with no finger ends. Those gloved fingers handled everything from the black bullets into a bag made of twisted paper, to bacon that she cut off on the slicer. You could tell the temperature by the drip on the end of her permanently red nose.

Don Mason – Shop 2

Don Mason's second shop - entrance now built up again. 2009

But things really started to move ahead when Don and Maggie moved up market from the wooden hut, and purchased the Miss Crowe’s Waverley house on the corner of Station Road and Woodburn road, and made a shop out of the corner front parlour. Soon after this Don got a van which he ran for many years around Bellingham, up the Tyne and over to Woodburn.

We all used to laugh (and sometimes fume) and were warned to watch Don’s arithmetic. Thinking back, he was probably ahead of his time in adapting metrics to pounds, shillings and pence.

So whatever the total was in pence, Don would just put a backslash through it, and that was your answer in shillings and pence. So for example if the sum came to 35 pence, Don would call it 3/5d when in fact it was 2/11d!

Sid Allen’s van
The Allen family bought Don’s business and they carried on the mobile service till the old brown van dropped to bits and the Allen's came to New Zealand.

Broughs
Bill Charlton remembers Broughs from Hexham coming to Bellingham once a month with groceries, a week after the traveler had been collecting the orders which were all made up.

Arthur Bell
Arthur Bell's shop was in the middle of this block,
as well as Norman Waugh's.


Arthur Bell in his brown dust coat and pipe permanently clenched between his teeth was the main grocer in Parkside Place in Bellingham. He serviced the North Tyne from the shop with Baden Thompson as his traveller who took the orders on is motorbike, dressed in his leather coat, leather helmet and goggles .

Baden Thompson.
In this picture (taken from a film) he obviously had found a new cap.
Normally his old cap was covered in flour from carrying bags.

Baden’s arrival at an outbye farm was an occasion to be savoured, as he was a walking news bulletin. He knew everything that went on in the village, as he when not in his meal store having a sleep on his bed of meal bags, or in Gertie Elliot’s warm kitchen cadging newly baked scones, he was propping up the archway into the back lane behind the shop where his meal store was, and watching everything that went on. The archway was called “Baden’s Arch” and sheltered many courting couples from winter chills after the dances. Baden’s ghost will still be there on frosty nights.

After the orders were made up, Trot Thompson (Baden's brother) then delivered them in his red Ford wagon. Bill Charlton remembers getting the job of doing the deliveries driving a wagon hired from Hugh Thompson when Trot’s wagon eventually died. It was in terminal sickness for years. Bill thinks the truck’s final end must have come when Trot lost the brick he had tied on a rope to the door, which he hoyed through the cab’s back window to stop the door flapping when traveling.

The West Wylam and Prudhoe Co-operative Wholesale Society – (CWS) “The store”

The Co-op 2009
The Co-op was a pillar of the community and if you shopped there you became a member and got discount, though it was not called that in those days. For example I (Clive) took the red notebook filled in at home with ‘the order’. It was always – butter, bacon, margarine, lard, sugar, bacon, tobacco, matches, tea.

Adam Smith (manager), Mick Bell or Hilary Armstrong would get each item, ticking it off in the book and marking in the price. After adding the pounds, shillings and pence up in their heads, they then gave you a ‘check” – not a cheque! You took this home and stuck it on a large sheet with all the others you had saved.

When the sheet was full, you proudly took it to the store and it would be added up and a grand total calculated. Now what happened then I’m not sure, but this clearly was a discount you had earned. Did they give you the money? You could also get the services of the Society’s undertaking services so you coul be buried by the store too.

Before the Co-op's days, the shop was run by Michael John Young.

Steve Bullock’s Fish and Chip van
Steve Bullock had a small fish and chip business operated from a large black Morris van. Bill Charlton used to drive it on Thursday nights over to Woodburn and then up to Redesdale. Annie Batey was the chef. This was quite an innovation at the time - fish and chips to your door!

Florrie Scott’s shop at Reedsmouth
Florrie ran her shop in a little wooden hut beside the station at Reedsmouth. She was a dumpy lady and just fitted in behind the counter in her wee shop, where only a couple of folk could stand inside at any one time.

Her brother Ernie Scott had the shop in High street from which Florrie sourced her supplies. Ernie had a van so stocking up Florrie was no problem. The folk of Reedsmouth (especially the kids) loved Florrie. Her service to the little community for many decades deserved a medal. She went down to Reedsmouth on the 11am train and returned on the 6pm train. I used to go and help on Jimmy and Helen Wood’s farm at Dove Cottage, and spent many happy journeys travelling the five miles on the train with Florrie. She always had large bags coming and going.

Matt Reay (from Ken Prebble)
Holidays during the war in 1942-43 were spent with Uncle Matt and Auntie Nena at West Woodburn. Mother and I would catch a train in Lanark to take us to the station at the western end of Princes St in Edinburgh. Then we would walk the length of Princes St to the station at the eastern end (Waverley?). That train would take us to Morpeth where we would transfer to the local train for Rothbury. Uncle Matt would pick us up at the West Woodburn station, and cart us off down to the township where he ran the local grocery store.

The 'shop' was attached to the house where the Reay family lived. Immediately behind the shop was a store, outside of which there was a drum of 'paraffin' with a tap so that Matt could fill the one gallon tins for customers. He would place a large tin jug with a big spout under the tap then pour the liquid into the gallon container. The ground around the tap was soaked in kerosene and could be smelt from all over the property. I don't ever recall seeing any fire extinguisher in the vicinity.

The store itself held the bulk items such as flour. All orders were weighed on a massive set of scales and carefully bagged in brown paper bags. Entry to the shop was via a door which was attached to a loud bell which activated once the door opened. That bell could be heard throughout the house so that, in a sense, the shop was always manned. Passing the time of day always seemed to be as important as finalising a transaction. While Nena was able to act as shop assistant, Matt was in charge and preferred to meet the customers himself.

To this day, I remember the unique smells of the grocery shop, the big piles of paper bags, the ladder to get to the top shelves, the huge till which took some effort to work the keys, the big square tins of biscuits, the absence of any plastic containers, wrapping or bags. There was also Matt's stained 'white' apron, the single naked bulb in the centre of the store, the broom, shovel and brush in the corner ensuring that the linoleum floor was regularly kept clean. The shop would probably not pass any health and safety tests these days.

Connected by a covered way to the house was a further bulk storage area containing non perishable goods. Few folk at that time 'had the phone in'' which included Matt. His main business was to take their pencil-written orders one week for delivery the next.

His territory was north as far as Rochester, South to Ridsdale, and then east to East Woodburn. I never experienced any trip west other than to Hindhaugh (which Hugh Snaith farmed) which was accessible by a private road running off opposite the Fox and Hounds, 500m or so south of the township itself.

Matt was a highly respected member of the West Woodburn community. Chances are that if you didn't know Matt then (a) you weren't a local and (b) you had no inside information and therefore no access to the various 'deals' that were available.

The Reays were loyal members of the Methodist church where Matt was an elder. Their children all attended the local primary school. Nena (Hannah) had three siblings, Annie (my mother) who grew up at Blakehope near the Elishaw junction, Hugh, who farmed at Hindhaugh for many years, and George, who emigrated to Alberta after the First World War. His innate generosity possibly never did him many favours and even as a boy, I recall that he had many bad debts. While it was common to put purchases on tick, Matt was probably too kindhearted to apply the pressure to get paid.

Matt owned a Bedford van, maybe 1935 or 1936. It was a vital part of the business in the day when few people had their own means of transport. On many an occasion I would be a passenger while Matt did the deliveries. Either because he had few mechanical skills or because the van was aging, breakdowns were common and it must have been frustrating for him as it was a vital part of the business.

Punctures were not uncommon then, and every tyre that had to be changed on the roadside, and later repaired, must have eaten into his scant profit margin. But his stress never showed. At every house he would greet folk with a smile, maybe have a cuppa, and catch up with the latest gossip.

A man with a great sense of humour, affable and likeable, Matt liked to play practical jokes. He would turn off the ignition on the van on a downhill stretch so that the mixture would accumulate, unburnt, in the cylinders, then, switching on again, there would be a loud backfire, scaring mobs of sheep or any other living creature within earshot. The damage to the exhaust system never crossed his mind.

Matt and Nena had four children. Hugh joined the airforce and had an illustrious career in Bomber Command. Hugh and his wife Doreen now live in Hexham. Marjorie, who married George Glenwright, is now widowed and also lives in Hexham. George was a noted Hexham chorister and was much in demand to sing local songs.

Doreen and her husband Bill both succumbed to cancer early in their lives. George married Mary Batey and they spent many years together in Bellingham before George died of heart failure in his sixties. George was a proud Northumbrian, highly respected and much loved in the Bellingham community.

The development of the supermarket and personal transport has spelled doom for places like the West Woodburn grocery shop. Yet during its peak it was an vital part of rural life.

“Fletcher’s stores brought to your doors” ( by Geoff Dagg)
My association with travelling shops up the North Tyne started at an early age, because of living next door to Andy and Meta Fletcher at Stannersburn.

At the age of seven or eight about 1950, on occasions during school holidays, I would hear Andy whistling along the road, followed by a knock on the door, and “Are you cumin lad”? Then off we would go, some times with Andy’s dog. The dog would get a run alongside the van when we were “gannin ootbye” and often on these journeys there would be gates to open and close, so I did have my uses!

Andy was a great salesman and was renowned for being able to get any “requirement”. His standard line was - “Are you sure you have plenty of this and plenty of that, and I’ll have those darning needles out to you with the post”. Little did I know that this early training would stand me in good stead some years later?

It was 1962 when I started on the van. There were three vans at this time. I drove one, an old Austin with Mary Mewse on board, to show me the ropes. John Robinson drove another and John always did the “Reed Watter” round. Ray Layton who Andy sold the business to eventually drove the third van.

I remember, one day, blasting through snowdrifts going past Otterstonelea. How we stayed on the road I’ll never know but Mary didn’t bat an eyelid! Mary made price lists etc for me and she soon had me “trained up” and doing the rounds on my own.

When returning to the shop in the evenings for repacking, dear Mary always made sure that “our” van was well stocked, sometimes so much so, that I could hardly get into the driving seat!

Some of my rounds took us to “ootbye” places such as Scaup, East Kielder, Akenshaw Burn and Willowbog as well as “inbye” such as Kielder. Being a young lad I had to take a lot of teasing and leg pulling from the ladies.

I tried to emulate Andy’s early training to get each customer any “requirement”, but I’m not sure that I came anywhere close to the master. I recall once we had a special offer on garden chairs as I think they were attached to some washing powder or other. I sold all mine and when I got back to the shop, I said to Andy that I needed another twenty. You should have seen his face!.

Of course the “ootbye” places always wanted the news and “what’s been gannin on”. There was one particular call where I was invited in to sit down with the family almost surrounding me, firing questions about this and that, almost like being interrogated!

One member of the family, about seventy years old at the time, was quite secretive about his treats, and used to get me to hide his Lucozade, Chocolate and Jesmona Black Bullets down beside a certain gateposts on my exit from the farm.

Tuesdays and Fridays were long rounds for me, and I regularly had tea with a certain household where there was sea trout often on the menu, depending on time of year, or maybe not. And then there was Christmas and New year, trying to limit the amount of cake and glasses of “tonic” generously offered. Mind you that was before the law changed and there was little risk of being breathalysed ootbye.

This was a job I enjoyed for three years, meeting lots of great people, before leaving for the big smoke of London in 1965, but that’s another story.

Builders ( by Bill Charlton)
My grandfather (Anthony William Charlton 1856-1933) was the Building Contractor in Bellingham and District and after he retired George Batey took over. George’s sons George, Arthur and Tommy joined the business. I also remember Willie and Tommy Aynsley as joiners who made panel and glass doors and built-in cupboards as well as being painters. Bob and Jim Milburn laid floors, roof trusses and staircases, etc. All these folk as well as Balfour the plumber all worked for Grandad.

Grandad used to live at the Reenes in early years and had two quarries up there quarrying his own stone to build houses. Front street was all given extra stories above Willie and Andrew Murray’s along the full length. He built many more houses in the village and Martins bank. He also built the church at the croft and the cemetery.

The Croft was built in five stages. Numbers 4 and 5 used to be one big house which he built because he had to leave the Reenes. So he built a place for himself. People liked what they saw and he added to the Croft. In the 1910 Floods he rebuilt the entire storm damaged places along the burn side from the police station bridge to Fallow Green.

My father Bob Charlton didn't want to carry on in the building trade as he was more into engineering and did his time with Herdmans of Wall. Then after he got married he changed his job to Hesleyside Estate and lived at the Croft with his parents until the house was split into numbers 4 and 5.

Other Bellingham shops and businesses
  • Dentist – Thoburns (Percy Terrace). His main job was extracting all teeth to provide dentures. He did little business in filling teeth.
Percy Terrace 2009. Houses built by George Batey (snr). Thoburns was
at the far end, as was the bungalow of Police Sgt Geordie Fell.

  • Doctor – Dr White, Dr Clements, Dr Kirk (Greenfield house).
  • Doctor – Dr Kirk, Dr Middlemiss (moved to Reedsmouth Road)

Dr Clements is third from the left, standing in back row. Dr Kirk is seated in front of him
  • District nurse – Nurse Armstrong. She brought most of us into the world traveling on her bike with a basket on the handle bars and a carrier on the back for her black bag.
  • Plumber – Balfour. (Station Road). A very dour Scotsman who lived with his sister. During the war Nancy McLauchlan remembers they had two coloured evacuees but hey didn’t stay long, as they must have found it hard in the village.
  • Plumber – Jack Nixon (High Street).
  • Tailor – Tommy Tailor Hedley (Parkside Place). Noted for his shoes without laces that were worn on the outside by sitting cross-legged. His grey mustache was stained yellow with nicotine.
  • Tailor - Fred (?) Warwick (Station Road).
  • Dressmaking - ?? (Roseneath house)
  • Electrician –Denis Allen (Station Road in Balfour’s old shop). Denys’s father Syd Allen worked in the bank and was a pillar of the community.
  • Joiners - Milburns (Fountain Terrace).
  • Joiners and undertakers – John and Ted Weightman (Lanehead).
  • Old post office – (Fountain Terrace).
  • Post office and telephone exchange – Mrs Beattie (High Street). Post men: Billy Beattie, Adam Dodd.
The Post Office, Betty Cowan, Willie and Andrew
Murray's shops were in this row
  • Barber – George Bell (Fountain Terrace). Having a male barber in the village brought about great change, as prior to that men got a friend or family member to cut their hair – no way in those days would a man have dreamed of going to Betty Cowan’s for a haircut. Tommy Little (Clive’s neighbour) used to let his whiskers grow all week when down Hareshaw pit, and then get a cut-throat shave from Geordie on a Friday night.
  • Hair dresser – Betty Cowan, Peggy Warwick (High Street).
  • Watchmaker – Andrew Murray (High Street). Clive’s father was a railway guard so having an accurate watch was essential. LNER didn’t provide them or pay for repairs. So Clive spent many hours calling at Andrew’s shop with the question – ‘ Mr Murray - is me Dad’s watch ready yet”? Inevitably the reply was “Am sorry but Aa hevn’t got it rreddy yet”. No wonder his output was slow because Andrew would talk the hind legs off a Blackface tup. He was an authority on local history, so that was one subject you kept right off.
  • Watchmaker, jeweler and tobacconist – Jack Telfer (King Street).
Telfer's shop was on the end nearest camera
  • Transport - carters. Joe and Kit Maughan. General carters with two horses and they also provided a hearse (flat cart with black cloth cover).
  • Transport and haulage – See separate blog. Google Tommy Thompson. Picture below shows Hugh Thompson's fleet of wagons and drivers lined up at Charlton.

  • Garage for petrol and motor repairs – The founder was called ‘Tackitty Thompson”, Edgar (son). (King Street). This was the home of Roddy, Baden and Trot Thompson. Edgar was the engineer and could fix anything – and serve petrol at the same time. He was always running and many of the village lads (Johnny Irvine, Tommy Elliott) served their time with Edgar. He also had a shed for vehicles in the Foundry yard, and it was here where he was found dead under a car that had fallen off the jack on top of him. The village lost an icon.
  • Garage for petrol and motor repairs – Northern Farmers. Manager Tom Pyle, staff Hugh Forster and Jock Hall. (Woodburn Road).
  • Farm supplies – “ The Northern farmers”. Sold animal feeds and farm tools such as forks and rakes. Jim Mason, Kit Maughan was in charge and the “office girls” (Nancy Brown, Violet Reed and Mildred Pigg) were under the eagle eye of Miss Armstrong. The office was managed by Noah (Noey) Nichol. Billy Lawrence was the traveler to take orders which were later delivered by wagon driven by Willie Wright, Mick Richardson and Jim Forster.
The Northern 2009. In its day provided petrol, motor repairs, farm supplies

  • Grocer - Ernie Scott (Front Street). Also had a van to service a limited area driven by Annie Batey with Cliff Charlton as assistant.
  • Grocer – Broughs traveller and delivery van.
  • General store - Mary Anne Pigg, Manchester place.
Pigg's shop with owner Mary Anne and friends posing for a Collier photograph.
Also in the photo is Joe Maughan, general carter.
Hopefully he used a different cart to the one he used to empty ashpits and netties!
  • Draper – Piggs then Robbs of Hexham. Shop Assistant Walter Dodd.
  • Draper/Tailor – Norman Waugh (Parkside Place). Shop assistant Elsie Jackson. Also expanded into some hardware and paint. His permanent reason (excuse) for not having anything, was that "it was at the station" and had not been delivered yet!
  • Draper - (1920s) Front Street, Miss Smith and Miss Forster (the Harrods of Bellingham) prior to the shop being becoming Ernie Scott's grocery business.
  • Confectionary – Batey (High Street).
  • Confectionary and general dealer. Mr A. Crester Wilson (Manchester Square). Referred to as Mamma Wilson and Dadda Wilson.
  • General dealer – Hindmarsh (High Street).
  • General dealer ??? – Billy Miller (Manchester Square).
  • Pharmacist (1914). Alec T. Low's shop on the corner of Parkside Place, later owned by Ted Dobbin.
  • Pharmacist and veterinary supplies – George and Mrs Cordiner (on Woodburn Road) then in Parkside Place. Shop assistants: Lily Hetherington??
Tommy Hedley the tailor' shop before George Cordiner moved in about 1960 (?)
Still a pharmacy in 2009
  • Newsagent – Ted and Mrs Dobbin (Parkside Place). Shop assistant Isobel Hetherington. In the 1920s it was owned by Miss E.M. Smith.
Dobbin's corner 2009. Baden's Archway (now gated) is on the left of picture opposite the car
  • Newspapers on Sundays. Brought to Bellingham by car by Croziers stopping on the way and ending up for their main sales in the cow byre at the Fox and Hounds.
  • Painting and paperhanging - Jimmy "Tishie" Armstrong, George Reay.
  • Food. Bakers – Maud and Ethel Bell (Parkside Place). Shop assistant Chrissie Armstrong. The bakery window was down the lane on the right of the picture. On the way from school we used to go and shout "Any crusts Ethel please". Some ginger bread crusts would appear at the window and a big smile from Ethel. Maud was always in the shop serving.
Maud and Ethel Bell's old shop in 2009.

  • Food. Fish and Chips then Snack Bar – Roddy and Mrs Thompson (Lock up Lane).
  • Food. Gertie Elliott, Temperence Hotel. Meals and accommodation. Gertie got a new sign-written board put up above her front door and was not very happy when Canon Flower pointed out that "accommodation" had been sign written with only one 'm"! In 1920 it was called the 'Royal Temperance Hotel owned by Sutherlands.
  • Photography - A.W. Collier (Lock Up Lane). See separate blog.
Collier's shop was half way along on the left. Tommy "tailor" Hedley was first house on the right - upstairs. Cobbler Bob Mole could be found midway along on the right.
  • Fresh milk – George Breckons (Foundry farm), Archie Wright (Eales farm), Jack Hume (Boat Farm), Peggy Johnson (Percy Terrace), Bill Hogg (Riding farm).
  • Blacksmith – Bellingham. Robert Burns (Bottle Bank).
  • Blacksmith and engineer - Greenhaugh. Stan Anderson.
  • Blacksmith - Stanners Burn. Arthur Grimwood.
  • Saddler – Frank Coulson (High Street). Frank had lost a leg in the first world war and he was always a fascination to the kids from the Reed’s School going past and seeing him working with a horse collar across his lap and only one leg sticking out below it.
This Collier photo in the 1920s will be Frank Coulson's father outside the shop
where Frank carried on the trade into the 1940s. By the goods posed for the photo,
it was certainly the horse era.


Saddler's shop in middle of row and Hindmarsh's shop (nearest camera) in 2009
  • Bus services. Moffit's of Acomb (blue livery). Drivers were ???. Mechanics were Billy Davidson. Norman Fox's bus from Bellingham to Kielder was part of Moffit's service.
  • Norman Fox drove the Forsters Bellingham to Kielder bus via Falstone and his last trip up the Tyne on a Saturday night after the dance was legend. It was a small bus but he got everyone home - many times with them hanging out the door.
  • Taxis - Harry Glass (Railway Hotel).
  • Taxis - Edgar Thompson. Bill Charlton remembers driving Edgars Hillman Minx taxi, with Matty Biggs from Chirdon one of his regular customers after a few drinks in the village.
  • Ambulance drivers and nurses – Alan Waite and Cissie Little. For many years, ambulance drivers were all voluntary. Lilly Charlton was one of the early volunteer nurses. Syd Allan and his son Dennis were drivers. After WW2, the ambulance was an ex-US military ambulance.
  • Entertainment - Bellingham Dramatic Society. Many people were involved over the years. Syd Allen, Joe Lumbley, Rob Allen.
  • Bank. Lloyd’s – Manager: Mr Johnson then Thompson. Cashier: Jack Maughan. Clerk: Mary Forster.
Lloyd's bank 2009

  • Bank. Martins – Manager: Horace Chilman then Bill Young. Cashier: Sid Allan. Clerk: Margaret Batey.
Martin's Bank - now Barclays
  • Black Bull – Publican: Mary Mitchell and then family Harry and Peggy. Post-war George and Jenny Milburn.
  • Rose and Crown –Publican: Mrs Philipson, then Robsons.
This Collier photo in the 1920s shows four buses (charabangs) waiting outside the pub. Turnbull's shop is on the corner of the next block - which became Stanley Telfer's butcher's shop.
Rose and Crown 2009
  • Fox and Hounds – Publican: Mrs Potts and then her son Jackie.
  • Railway Hotel – Publicans: 1900 Walter Easton. Harry Glass.
The Railway hotel, then the Cheviot. 2009

The Mechanic's InstituteThis was a shed on the way from the main Woodburn Road along to the Foundry yard. It was built of corrugated iron, and stood just beside the bridge that carried the railway over the Hareshaw burn.

Sadly its history is not documented, regarding who built it, and who owned and administered it. Bill Charlton remembers there being two snooker tables and a table tennis table when he used to go, once a week for the cost of six pence to be coached in billiard by Tommy Hedley. Nancy McLauchlan (nee Brown) remembers her father Harry Brown winning competitions there.
I have some faint memory that there may have been a library of sorts there too.

Bellingham Churches

  • Church of England – Canon W.J. Flower. RN
  • Catholic – Father Delaney
  • Methodist –Local preachers, W.J. Cairns.
  • Presbyterian - Rev Horace Johnston, Rev ?? Bunn, Rev Alan Willis.
Music - North Tyne Melody Makers
  • Piano – Tommy Hedley (Also organist at St Cuthbert's Church of England).
  • Drums- Walter Dodd
  • Accordion – William Bullock
  • Fiddle – Athol Bullock
  • Saxophone – Benson Tomlinson
  • Guitar (occasional) – Harry Mitchell
  • MC Billy Richardson
Bellingham village characters

Geordie Dagg


Geordie Dagg was a village icon. He was always busy going somewhere, very often to his selected pubs in the village. Asking those who remember the old times, they cannot ever remember Geordie having a real job - other than walking his Dalmation dog (called Spot!) around. In this picture, taken from a film of village life, this spaniel is not Spot! Geordie always had a short stick with him and that looks like a watch on his lapel. It may have been a medal for long service to doing nowt!

Redesdale shops and businesses (Don Clegg)
  • The “Scotch Baker” (Dodd from Jedburgh)
  • Butcher – George Ashford (Elsdon)
  • Grocer – Tommy Nichol (Wark)
  • Fresh milk – Dixon, Stobbs
  • Grocer – Brown (Rochester)
  • General Store – Jack Wallace (Rochester)
  • Post office, taxi and school car – Leighton family (Rochester)
  • Joiner – (Robinson)
  • Cobbler – Tommy ????
  • Garage and taxi – Fred Anderson.
  • Bus services. Forsters (amber livery).

Wark shops and businesses (Philip Easton)

Quoits on Wark green about 1910

  • Garage and taxi – (1940s) Fred Anderson.
  • Transport depot – Jamiesons with red wagons. Drivers: Tucker and Eddie Jamieson, Jimmy Elliott.
  • Tom Charlton – Petrol pump (pool petrol) and pump shop
  • Sewing and knitting supplies, etc. - Peg White.
  • Clothing and fabric lengths, etc. - Mr Franklin
  • Shoemaker and cobbler (made wood soled cloggs, etc. Mr. Redpath.
  • Houxty Gardens, veggies and flowers, famous for tomatoes which he also sold to Nichols,
    Cooperative Society Shop – Groceries, etc. - W.J. Stables .
  • Sewing machine repairer. - ??
  • Wark school – Headmaster - Mr. Houston (sp?) also taught older class, name of other teacher not known. In those pre dam days, the playground would flood up to the schools foundations when there was a heavy rain leading to a Tyne flood; The North Type could produce a flood bore if the conditions were right.
  • Blacksmith shop + recharging of wet cell batteries for radios, etc., name not known.
  • Prisoner of war camp (for farm labour), later used for displaced persons for war ravaged areas of Europe. Was on the Bellingham Road, on the opposite side from Nichols bakery.
  • Bakery and mobile shop vans: Nichols.
  • Grocer - Walter Wilson from either Newcastle or Hexham.
  • Grocer - Billy Civil of 'Civil Supply Stores' until 1951 and then taken over by the West Wylam and Prudhoe Cooperative Society.
  • Newspaper and magazine delivery (Sundays only). Don’t have a name, but they came in a van.
  • Church - St. Michael (C of E). Vicar ??????
  • Houxty House – Owners the Major and Mrs. Chapman and their son Paul. The Major was the nephew of Abel Chapman, reknowned hunter, preservationist and naturalist and founder of what is now known as Kruger National Park.
  • District Nurse – ?? Anderson. She zipped around on an autocycle ( like a moped with 98 cc motor.
  • Doctor – Dr Coker “the Black Doctor”, in Wark at least by 1944. He was well accepted, and might well have been the only Black person that most of his patients had ever seen. He was very popular with everyone.
  • Rabbit catcher - Jack Wanlass.
  • Hotel. The Grey Bull. Landlord Tommy Shanks. Norman Walton (1950s).
  • Hotel. Battlesteads. Landladies Misses Turner and Creese.
  • Blacksmith - Nicholas Pattison

Wark 
Memories from Paul Salisman
Grandson of Dr Coker (the Wark ‘Black Doctor’), Paul now lives in the Caribbean.

Paul (0n the left) with squash team mates,
dressed for the Carribean and not for Wark!


As for memories of Wark, they will always remain the best years. With me being a cockney having been born within ear shot of the Bow Bell's in London, I just could'nt wait until we got summer holidays. For the first couple of years it was by train from Kings Cross station to Newcastle, and then by bus from Newcastle to Wark where we stayed with our Eeddie - Ms. Edith Story at East View.

I'd wake early in the morning so as to walk the cows from the village farm, then run by the Johnsons, up to pasture and on my way down, it would be collecting eggs from the hen houses. Then it would be another breakfast and the occasional sprint running away the odd fox that would venture in and around the hen houses.

When that was done we would spend some time fishing under the stanners of the Wark bridge until it was time to bale hay which took most of the afternoon. Dinner and tea would later follow - after which it would be time to round up and fetch the cows and bring them down for milking. When this was done it was time to feed the ducks dropping bread scraps from the village bridge gotten from Tommy Nichol's bakery.

Then a nice game of football on either the village green or school playfield until we were called for supper, bath and then bed. Only to do the same again the following day- totally enjoyable. When the six week's summer holiday sadly came to an end, it was all about looking forward to the next year and what we would plan. I rode my first horse at the tender age of 5+ long before I could ride a bicycle - but that'sanother story. Speaking of which the late Ms. Story - affectionately our Aunt Eadie, I will always love you, you were my second mum.

My mum graduated from Skerry's College in Newcastle, she went to work for Grindleys
Bank in London as shorthand typist/accountant, after which she held numerous
positions in that same field one of her favourites was at John Laing Construction again as shorthand typist/accountant.

My Dad at that time worked as a technician with Lyons Ice Cream I remember Choc Ice's for
dessert on the weekends. After leaving the U.K and settling in the sunny Caribbean island of Jamaica, again y mum worked as a full accountant with Life Of Jamaica Insurance company until her passing in 1996, while my dad worked with various shipping companies until his passing in 1990.

I'm a supervisor with a locally based French owned shipping company CMA CGM as an agent for container vessels. Shipping has become my life I've always loved to be near water that's why Wark was so special especially the river that passed by the village.

Memories from Noel Wanless
Noel's father Jack was the rabbit catcher for the valley farms, and noted grower of prize vegetables - especially leeks.

Lil Walton, Wark Black Bull. 
Noel remembers that the owner of the Black Bull was Lil Walton who had run it from time immemorial, and although town folk find it hard to believe, Lil approaching her 8oth Birthday had never been further than Hexham, and had never been to the big City of Newcastle!

Her Grandson was in the RAF  and came home for her Birthday and arranged to take her to Newcastle Airport and for a 30 minute flight in a light aircraft. All the old guys in the Pub knew at 1pm precisely the aircraft would fly over the Black Bull, and they would all be outside with pints to greet Lil and she would wave back.

Come the big day, all was arranged outside the pub with pints/fags and pipes at the ready. Sod's law kicked in and at precisely 1pm an RAF Jet on a low level exercise screamed over the village and one old blokes shouted 'The stupid bugger'-  she'll see nowt gannin that bloody fast! Imagining the distorted face of  80-year-old Lil traveling at Mach 3 was too much for them!

Then a few minutes later, the 'put put' light aircraft arrived on scene with Lil safe to save the day.

Church of England vicar - Mr McLean. 
His two sons were called Donald and Kenneth.  He was one of the first in the village to have a TV and if you attended Sunday School you were allowed to visit the manse to see Robin Hood starring Richard Greene.  Mr McLean became noted for winning the football pools.

Cobbler - Jack Redpath.

General store - William Civil



URGENT REQUEST
We would be thrilled if you could add any anecdotes, and report errors and omissions. Email these to Clive at (clive.dalton@gmail.com). His postal address is 12 Maple Avenue, Dinsdale, Hamilton 3204, New Zealand. Phone him on +64 7 847-9367 but check the time differences!