March 22, 2009

Angora (Mohair) Goat Basics: Feeds available for goats

Agriculture, animal husbandry, goats, Mohair, Angora, feeds, feeding, nutrition

By Dr Clive Dalton


Feeds available to goats


Pasture
  • Future goat farming in New Zealand is based on pasture feeding, and as world grain prices have gone crazy less of it will be fed, and it will be fed more carefully.
  • The problem with “pasture“ as a feed is that it varies in quality and quantity every day of the year. It goes from low DM, low fibre, high protein and high digestibility in spring and autumn, to low protein, high DM, high fibre and low digestibility in the summer.
  • Balancing all this to meet the nutritional needs of the stock at different times of the year is often described as more art than science.
  • The other key to good pasture management is the balance between roots and shoots. The shoots generate nutrients through photosynthesis so are the factory of the plant. If you keep them grazed off hard, then it takes longer for them to recover and made food to be stored in the roots.
  • This is why rotational grazing is successful as it allows time for shoots to recover before being grazed again.
  • The aim of all plants is to mature quickly and go to seed so the key to grazing management is all about “controlled defoliation” to prevent them doing this.
  • Remember of course that with goats, they will prefer the seed heads over lush green leaves and clover.
  • It’s not economic in New Zealand to use machinery and diesel to control pasture, so the animal is used instead. So the animals control the pasture and the pasture feeds the animals.
  • Again it’s a question of keeping a balance and making decisions well ahead of time e.g. When stock should be moved and when pastures will start going to seed.
  • When you can see 10-15% of seed heads in a pasture, it’s time to make silage and this will be good quality. If the seed heads have gone beyond this – then it’s a hay crop.

Supplementary feeds

Hay
Good things about hay
  • Cattle of all ages will eat hay with relish unless it’s really old, mouldy or full of thistles or docks.
  • Hay has high DM (86%) and the high fibre content is good for rumen digestion which generates heat in the animal.
  • It’s easy to make hay as long as the sun shines.
  • It’s easy to handle when baled in the paddock, in storage and when feeding out – provided you have small bales or equipment to handle big bales which seem to get bigger every year.
  • Hay keeps well for a couple of years and is easy to buy and sell.
Bad things about hay
  • It can vary greatly in quality depending on the pasture it was made from and how mature the crop was when it was cut, also how badly it was weathered before baling.
  • You lose about 80% of the feeding value of the original grass crop when you make hay of it.
  • The protein content in good hay is only around 4%.
  • Hay will catch fire, and if baled or put in a shed slightly damp it will heat up and self-combust.
Pasture Silage Good things about silage
  • In good silage you only lose about 20% of the original nutrients from the pasture if cut at the 10-15% seed head stage.
  • Good leafy silage is a high protein feed at around 17-20% protein in the DM.
  • Really good silage is around 25% Dry Matter.
  • After cutting a silage crop the paddock will return to regrow quicker than with hay.
Bad things about silage
  • Silage smells and many people say it stinks, regardless of whether it was made well or badly. On small farms this regularly causes problems with non-rural neighbours.
  • You must get everything right in the ensiling process or you’ll end up with an inferior product which can cause animal and human health problems - especially if it goes mouldy.
  • You cannot make good silage from short, lush spring pasture as it is hard to get a good fermentation, and the end product will be only 20% DM or less. This will restrict the nutrient intake of the stock.
  • Likewise, pasture that is well on the way to hay makes poor silage.
  • Silage is hard to cart around and feed out as bales are 500-700 kg, and too many folk have been injured by them. A bale on a small trailer pulled by an ATV can jack-knife and kill you.
  • If you open a bale in the paddock and let stock help themselves, the acid in the silage will burn the grass and the stock will pug the area. Burning can also happen if you dump it in great forkfuls and stock don’t clean it up that day.
  • The juice that can leak out of bales or pits is an extremely bad environmental hazard as if it gets into streams it eats up large quantities of oxygen.
  • Old silage wrap is an environmental hazard too. It can cause serious digestive problems in stock if they eat it and it blocks open drains. It is supposed to be disposed of in “an approved land fill” – which could cost you dollars.
  • Wrapped bales need care in handling and protection from stock, rats and magpies to prevent punctures, air entry and mould.

Balage and haylage
  • There is no difference between these supplements and balage seems to be most commonly used! Both are made from a very mature crop that ends up around 40% DM.
  • But beware especially when buying it as it could be a hay crop that became wet, or a silage crop that went too far to seed.
  • Get a sample analysed to be sure what’s in it before you buy it. And pick the sample from a range of bales.
A buyer’s guide to silage
  • When you buy silage, get the vendor to open a bale and dig deep inside to see what it’s like.
  • Check the bales for tiny holes as mould forms quickly if air leaks in. You can also do a squeeze test. Take a handful and squeeze it hard and if juice comes out between your clinched fingers – it’s too wet and certainly below 20% Dry Matter.
  • Or take a sample and twist it to see if juice appears. It’s easy to squeeze juice from wet silage lower than 20% DM. Do a “sniff and feel” test using Table 16.

Silage quality check list

Send a good representative sample of the silage to a laboratory for feed analysis to get DM%, Protein% and ME.

Other crops
Look in any seed company’s catalogue and you’ll see a wide range of crops that can be grown to feed goats. The term “crop” covers such things as subtropical grasses and a wide range of brassicas and pulses. The catalogue information is comprehensive and well presented and companies have specialist agronomists who will help you. The key things to look out for are:

  • When do you need the extra feed the crop will provide?
  • What yield of Dry Matter can you expect per hectare?
  • What climate limitations does the crop have? Will it grow in your area?
  • What soil type limitations does it have?
  • What fertiliser requirements does the crop have?
  • How will you control weeds? These are always a major threat.
  • How will you harvest the crop – do you need a machine or can it be grazed?
  • Are there any animal health risks from grazing the crop?
  • What are the costs of establishment?
  • How long will the pasture be out of production while the crop is growing?
  • How do you treat the paddock after the crop?
  • There are probably many more questions so that’s why you need to talk to an agronomist.

Maize silage
  • Maize silage is high in carbohydrates and low in protein.
  • It’s a good winter feed when animals are dry or during spring to supplement lush green pasture.
  • It’s a bulky feed so make sure milking does are fed any high-energy grain feed first.
  • Maize silage needs to be kept well covered at the pit face as moulds grow very quickly.
Concentrates
  • These feeds are based on grains (barley and maize) and hence are very expensive per kg of DM. A kg of DM in spring pasture may cost 10cents, in silage 20c, and 80-90c in commercial meals. So they need to be confined to times of clearly defined need.
  • The are “supplements” and not “substitutes“ for their pasture diet, as this will eat up any profits in the enterprise.
  • The full nutritional content of the meal must be shown on the bag.
  • Goats soon learn to eat meal but start at 40-50gm/head/day for 7-10 days, and don’t exceed 0.200g/head/day for adults. Dams will soon teach their kids to relish grain-based feeds.
  • For lactating goats, check their mineral needs. Some farmers add 1% of ground limestone or cement if feeding for longer than two months. Check this with your veterinarian.
  • Coccidiostats can be added to grain feeds but discuss this need with your veterinarian.

Weeds
  • Goats are not miracle workers able to produce quality mohair fibre from scrub and weeds. Good fibre comes from good nutrient intake.
  • Feral but also Angoras have been used for weed and scrub control, and there have been some spectacular results. In trials, as well as pasture weeds, they dealt successfully with gorse, sweet briar, manuka, kanuka and tutu.
  • When new shoots on weeds and shrubs are growing rapidly, they are high in protein and energy and will meet the full nutritional needs of mohair goats, but in winter when bark is eaten because there is nothing else, nutritional needs will not be met.
  • Ringbarking is certainly an effective way to kill woody weeds and may be a planned management practices.
  • Stocking rates to achieve these results need to be around six goats/ha.
  • However, it would not be good practice to use Angora goats farmed to produce high quality fibre to break down scrub although they’d be well able to deal with pasture weeds.
  • If you want to leave selected trees in areas where goats are eating scrub, then they need to be protected from bark damage as the goats do not discriminate.
Feeding levels
  • It’s important to remember that the fibre processor wants a fibre that is even along its length, and feeding levels control this. Synthetic fibres don’t have this problem and that’s why they have been such a success.
  • There is a genetic limit to how thick the fibre will grow but the environment (feeding) can certainly dictate how thin it can grow and in times of starvation the fibre will be so thin that it will break. In Merino sheep this is called “hunger fine”.
  • Little work has been done on the precise feeding levels for pasture fed Angora goats in New Zealand, and even if we did know these, it would be difficult to work out how to provide them because of the way goats graze and browse.
  • Feeding an even pasture sward of 2300kg DM/ha, rotationally grazed on a 40day rotation would be easy to work out what they were getting, but this is not the way goats are fed.
  • A good New Zealand pasture made up of 70% grass and 30% clover will provide feed that has protein and energy levels, as well as minerals and trace elements for most of the year to meet the needs of mohair goats.
Target liveweights
A “target” weight is not an average weight. It’s a minimum weight and should be reached or exceeded by all animals in the group.



Nutrient values of feeds
This table shows the Dry Matter (DM%), the Energy Value measured in Metabolisable Energy (ME) and Crude Protein (CP%).

Angora (Mohair) Goat Basics: Fiber handling

Agriculture, husbandry, goats, Angora, Mohair, fibre, handling, shearing

By Dr Clive Dalton


Kid fleece, 26-30 microns

Fibre handling


Shearing
  • Shearing gear has to run much slower for mohair or cashmere goats as there is not as much grease in the fleece to help lubrication.
  • Some goats are shorn standing up with their head held in a yoke.
  • But this method slows up shearing, and many shearers just want to get the job done as fast as possible and put up with the goat's protest.
Suggestions from goat shearers:
  • The handpiece should be set at 1500-200 rpm (2400rpm for sheep) to reduce overheating. This may not be possible with some plants.
  • Use air-driven handpieces or electric battery pack ones.
  • Stand the handpiece in a mixture of 2:1 kerosene and light oil after each goat is shorn.
  • If using extra oil, then use it sparingly to avoid fleece contamination.
  • Don’t use thin worn cutters and combs. A special goat comb is available to help prevent skin cuts.
  • Snow combs used for sheep are not suitable for goats.
  • Normal concave and convex combs can be used provided they have reasonable new straight teeth on the bottom side to give a good clean finish without second cuts.
  • Shear against the lie of the fibre as much as possible.
  • Leave all coarse fibre on the belly and leave the beard on.
  • Only shear the belly if it’s growing plenty of quality fibre.
Important point: If there is any risk of dampness, then expect the shearer to refuse to shear your goats. It’s bad for the shearer’s health (skin boils) and damp mohair will become mildewed and be worthless if packed damp.

Shearing times
  • Angoras are best shorn twice a year – in autumn and spring to provide a fibre 100-175mm long. Good Angora goats are capable of growing 25mm of fibre every month, especially over the spring and summer when nutrient intake is high.
  • The aim is to shear before any fibres are naturally shed and get caught up in the fleece causing felting which makes processing (combing) more difficult.
  • Shedding usually occurs from August to October but animals under stress can shed fibres earlier. So it’s important to keep a close watch on the state of the fleece as shearing should be done before shedding.
  • Shearing should also be done at least six weeks before kidding to avoid fibre break and felting caused by the stress of birth and lactation. This also makes it easier for the kids to find the udder after birth. If you cannot fully shear at this time, it could pay to crutch the goat to clear fibre from the udder area.
  • Autumn shearing should also fit in with mating. It’s certainly important to shear bucks before mating as when they start their urine spraying they contaminate most of their underside and front.
  • Newly shorn goats will need extra care as the weather in early spring can be unpredictable. Shearing after kidding will end up with poor quality fleeces due to felting.
Fleece contamination
  • Impurities that contaminate fleeces are either natural or acquired from the environment. The main natural contaminant is grease, which protects the fibre from weathering; it’s very important to help waterproof the goat.
  • Urine stain is another example and is most common in males as are coloured fibres from other goats or dogs in the shearing shed.
  • Acquired impurities picked up from the environment include vegetable matter (especially weed seeds such as burrs), sand and soil and chemicals from dips and pourons.
Sources of contamination
Hay
  • This is a common contaminant and gets into fleeces when goats crowd around when hay is thrown out.
  • When feeding from hayracks, it’s inevitable that hay and seeds gets into their fleeces.
  • One idea is to shut the goats out of the area where hay is laid out before opening the gate to let them in to feed.
  • Don’t throw the hay in large biscuits or the goats will shake it up before selecting mouthfuls. Feed it in small heaps and only what they can clean up, or they‘ll find it a very attractive dry bed to lie on.
Silage/Balage
  • Contamination is less here as any seeds from the crop are wet and won’t blow around.
  • But there’s still the chance of stalks getting into the fleece.
  • Use the same feeding trick as described for hay – keep the goats away till the fodder is laid out.
Meal
  • This is usually not a problem unless it’s very dusty.
  • Turn the troughs over after use to keep the rain out and to stop goats resting in them.
Weed seeds
  • These are a major problem when they are dry and hard and hence easily picked up on the fleece and spread.
  • If grazed or browsed when green, there will be no seed heads to worry about.
  • Burrs as seen on Bathurst Burr and Bidi-bid are the most serious.
Chemicals
  • Concern is mainly from dips, pourons and sprays to prevent external parasites, and consumers are becoming more concerned about their use in “natural fibres”.
  • They don’t like the idea of any chemical getting inside the fibre, or any ending up in the environment from scouring before processing.
  • Withholding times for all chemicals used must be adhered to and don’t treat for at least six weeks before shearing (the same rule as applied to wool).
Shed (dung) stain
  • This can seriously downgrade fibre and happens so easily when shearing is planned and rain unexpectedly appears. So you rush the goats inside straight off the pasture into the nearest cover you can find.
  • Even if you have a shed with grating, sloppy dung will still get rubbed from one animal to another as they mill around.
  • Floors without grating are a big hazard, as with the accumulation of dung overnight, they become very slippy and goats fall over (humans too!) when being caught and the fleece gets stained.
  • This green stain cannot be scoured out of wool to meet the high specifications of top quality mohair.
  • If goats must be left indoors overnight, then give them at least half a day emptying out in a bare yard or on very bare pasture. Make sure they have water.
  • Sand and sawdust floors are not a good idea either.
Urine stain
  • This is mainly a problem of bucks, which should be shorn before they start to become active in the autumn.
  • At least shear their bellies and chests. Leave them with their beards!
Sand & soil
  • Goats like to rub in earth banks, in many cases because they have lice so check regularly for that.
  • Sand and soil are hated by shearers as they ruin their combs and cutters. A good rain can wash out a lot of sand and soil due to the open staple formation.
Rain
  • Wet and humid weather can produce a yellow stain and little can be done about it, other than to shear twice a year so after rain fleeces dry out quickly.

Angora (Mohair) Goat Basics: Goat fibre

Agriculture, husbandry, goats, Angora, Mohair, Cashmere, Cashgora ,goat fibre, growth
 

By Dr Clive Dalton




Staples of kid fleece, 26-30 microns
Goat fibre
Fibre development
  • Fibres start to grow in the foetus from follicles in the skin.
  • The first to develop are large coarse fibres from primary follicles, and finer fibres follow these from secondary follicles.
  • A typical group of these follicles would be made up of three primaries and 20-30 secondaries in a mohair goat.
  • This is called the Secondary/Primary (S/P) ratio.
  • Birth coats are rich in coarse fibres but are shed at about three months old leaving fine fibres from the secondary follicles to produce the first fleece.
  • Fleeces generally become coarser with age as the primary follicles continue to produce and shed coarse fibres, especially during spring and autumn.

Mohair
  • Mohair is the fibre produced by Angora goats.
  • Angora rabbits produce fibre called “Angora”.
  • Mohair is classed as a luxury fibre and is mainly used in blends to make clothing and furnishings.
  • Annual mohair fleece weight from kids averages around 1kg, and 2-3kg from adult does.
  • Fibres range in length from 100-175mm and are white with high lustre.
  • Mean fibre diameter ranges are:
  • Superfine kid (23 microns or less)
  • Fine kid (23-27 microns)
  • Young goat (27-30 microns)
  • Adult hair (30-33 microns)
  • Strong adult hair (33 microns or above)
  • Mohair can in theory contain up to four fibre types:
  • Non-medullated fibres (the best quality to aim for).
  • Non-medullated fibres with medullated tips.
  • Medullated fibres.
  • Kemp.
  • High quality mohair today contains little or no medullated or kemp fibres.

Mohair grading
The broad grading divisions are:
  • Fine: Soft handling and lustrous premium fibre. Only 5% of total fibre qualifies for this premium quality grade. NZ kid is in this grade.
  • Medium fine: Soft handling and lustrous. Young goat qualifies for this grade.
  • Medium: Lustrous with reasonable handle from adult goats.
  • Strong mohair: Coarser fibre from adult animals.
  • Kempy mohair: Can be quality mohair but rich in kemps which severely downgrades the fibre.
Mohair characteristics
  • Fineness: Measured by mean fibre diameter in microns (millionth part of a metre). Fibres become coarser as the animal ages.
  • Staple length: The length of the shorn staple. This is the most important characteristic in manufacturing.
  • Uniformity of fibre: High quality fibres should be uniform along their length. Fibres of 130mm long are used for worsted yarns and under 100mm for woollen yarns.
  • Tenderness or break: Refers to weakness in the fibre usually caused by low plane of nutrition. The fibre will break at the weak point during manufacturing greatly reducing its value.
  • Medullation: Fibres with a cavity in the core filled with air or loosely packed cells. There are two types:
  • Gare (kemp) fibres which grow continuously.
  • Kemp fibres which grow for shorter periods and are held within an inactive follicle for a period prior to shedding.
  • Lustre: The sheen caused by the large cuticle sized scales on the mohair fibre reflecting light. These are much larger than on wool.
  • Softness & Handle: The flatter alignment of mohair cuticle scales gives mohair a softer feel. It is dictated a lot by fibre diameter – the finer the fibre the softer it feels.
  • Colour: White is the preferred colour as the fibre can then take any colour dye. Yellow discolouration from wet weather is a common New Zealand defect.
  • Yolk: Secretion from glands in the follicle. This is very low in the goat so after scouring you get at high yield of at least 90% clean fibre.
  • Style & character: Good style is a combination of fineness, evenness, soft handling, and lustre and good staple formation. The degree of crimp (twist or wave) in the staple is important in this trait. Gives good aesthetic appeal but does not influence processing and has little effect on price. Some breeders consider high crimp to be more immune to adverse weather effects.
  • There are over 20 different mohair lines which are designed to meet the very precise needs of the processors and their markets.
 
White is preferred but some natural colours such as this 'bark' is popular for handcrafting.
Combed top 26-30 microns

Cashmere
  • Cashmere fibre is described as soft, luxurious, hard wearing providing soft handle, lightness and warmth.
  • It‘s the fine undercoat that can be found in all types of goats which grows among the coarse outer guard hairs to provide a warm undercoat.
  • In goats specially bred for the fibre, the number of these fine fibres have been increased and these are separated after shearing by blowing air over the fleece leaving the guard hairs behind.
  • Feral does will produce 20-70g of fibre, and with selection animals producing 100-150g were identified. Yields of 250g and up to 500g were talked of when cashmere breeding was at its height in the 1980s.
  • Mean fibre diameter is 15-16 microns with a range from 8-18 microns. The down is non-medullated and ranges in length from 50-55mm. The fibres have no crimp and no grease.

Cashgora
  • This fibre comes from crosses between Angora and cashmere goats and is generally around 20 microns.

Goat hair
  • These are the medullated fibres found on all goats except Angoras and can vary from 40-140 microns in diameter.
  • They grow from the large primary follicles in the skin.
  • Goat hair is used for felts, cords, carpets and brushes and to produce fancy effects in tweeds.

Angora (Mohair) Goat Basics: Handling fleeces

Agriculture, goats, husbandry, Angora, Mohair, fleece, handling

By Clive Dalton

 
The final objective - top quality combed top 26-30 microns

Handling fleeces
If you do a good job on the basic fleece handling on the farm, then it makes the job easier for the classer, and this will be reflected in a higher return. Here are some suggestions:

Before shearing
  • Sort goats into sexes and age groups. For example:
  • Crosses G1 to G4.
  • Any shorn at different times with different fleece lengths.
  • Kids (separate sexes not needed).
  • Yearlings (will be mainly does but keep wethers separate).
  • Mixed age (wethers to be kept separate).
  • Bucks (of all ages).

On the shearing board
  • Sweep the belly away as soon as it is shorn and keep it separate.
  • Pick up the fleece and lay it out for sorting.
On the table
  • The main body fibre is your main money earner, so don’t let anything contaminate this.
  • G4 and G3 goats need only to have the stained pieces and vegetable contamination removed.
  • G2 and G1 need to have the shorter off-types (that differ greatly from the main body fleece) skirted along with any kemp on the britch or back line. Stained and very kempy pieces should be kept quite separate.
Packing the fleeces
  • Put each fleece in the fadge, arranging about six fleeces in each layer (ten if they are small), with a sheet or two of newspaper between each layer.
  • Close up the fadge correctly and put your name and customer number on it. Add a brief description of what’s in the bale.
Documentation
  • It’s very important to all concerned that you do this correctly.
  • Close the fadge securely.
  • Mark on the outside with a waterproof marker pen your name, address, phone number and customer number if you have one.
  • Mark on the fadge a description of what’s inside.
  • Keep a detailed record of what you sent to the pool.
  • Let the pool know how and when you are delivering the fleeces.
Fibre testing
  • Fibre testing is done at a specialist laboratory (see appendix for details). A mid side sample of fleece is needed for this and the correct point for sampling is one full hand span from the middle of the back of the goat over the last rib.
  • A sample of 20-30g of fibre is needed for this.
  • The lab will wash the sample, and after drying an allowable “moisture regain“ of 16% is added. This weight is then expressed as a percentage of the original weight to show the “yield” of clean fibre.
  • The most important characteristic in an Angora fleece is fibre diameter (FD) so it’s important to know the mean and the variation around the mean.
  • For example if 400 individual fibres were measured and the mean was 27 microns, there could be a range between 10 and 60 microns and this is expressed as the Standard Deviation (SD).
  • In making comparisons between animals, it’s useful to use the Coefficient of Variation (CoV) which is the Standard Deviation expressed as a percentage of the mean.
  • If the CoV is small, then you know that the variation in the sample, and hence the goat’s fleece is low. If it’s high the CoV shows that there is a lot of variation in the animal’s fleece. A CoV of 25% is regarded as normal and satisfactory.
  • The other useful test to have done is medullation to see how many coarse fibres, especially kemps, there are in the fleece.

Angora (Mohair) Goat Basics: Diseases PART 1

Agriculture, animal husbandry, goats, Angora, Mohair, health, diseases, lameness, sudden death

By Dr Marjorie Orr


Lameness - overview
  • Practically every goat farmer has to deal with lame goats at some time or other.
  • It’s a common problem, particularly on wet land and when the horn on the feet becomes overgrown.
  • The most common causes of lameness are foot scald, foot rot, foot abscess and arthritis.
  • In young kids, joint ill can cause lameness.

Foot scald
  • Foot scald (interdigital dermatitis) is a bacterial infection that is very painful.
  • Foot scald tends to develop suddenly when conditions underfoot are wet and there are a lot of animals in a small area.
  • It commonly occurs the morning after a shower in mild weather and when the grass is long.
  • It is a very painful condition and it causes affected goats to go down on their knees to take the weight off their feet.
  • You might see several goats on their knees the morning after a shower in mild weather and when the grass is long.
  • The skin between the toes is either red and swollen, or blanched and white.
  • Affected feet aren’t smelly like foot rot.
  • With mild infections, goats can recover spontaneously if they are moved to drier pasture.
  • Standing affected goats in a foot bath containing 10% zinc sulphate as described below is an effective treatment.
Footrot
  • Footrot is caused by another type of bacterium, and the infection is between the horn and the sensitive growing tissue that lies beneath it.
  • The horn tends to separate from the underlying tissue with the gap becoming filled by dirt and smelly exudate.
  • Footrot is particularly likely when the horn is overgrown.
  • Overgrown horn tends to curl under the foot, trapping mud and predisposing to infection.
  • In goats with long-standing footrot, the infection can track into the foot, causing painful abscesses and sometimes arthritis causing swelling above the foot.
  • To treat foot rot, first cut back any overgrown horn as described below.
  • Put the goats through a footbath containing 10% zinc sulphate as described below.
  • Stand the goats in the footbath for at least 5 minutes and preferably 10 minutes.
  • Repeat the footbaths at regular intervals to keep infection at bay.

Foot abscesses
  • Foot abscesses develop when foot rot is untreated or when any infection tracks deep into the foot and causes pus to form in or around a joint.
  • There may be an obvious swelling and/or the affected toe may be hot and very painful.
  • The abscesses are caused by bacterial infection, and they make animals very lame indeed.
  • Get veterinary help right away because affected animals need treatment.
  • Your vet may pare the foot to try to release the pus, but generally this is not possible, and a long course of antibiotic treatment is the only treatment option.
Preventing foot problems
  • The outer weight-bearing part of each toe is made of thick strong horn. The inner non-weight-bearing parts of the sole are made of thinner horn.
  • Normally the outer horn grows slowly, like our finger and toenails, and it is usually worn down at the rate it grows at by natural wear.
  • If conditions underfoot are soft, the horn grows faster than the rate of wear.
  • The horn on the two toes can get so long it curls under the foot or it may grow forward until the toes cross.
  • This is a recipe for foot problems and excess horn should be trimmed.
  • To help prevent foot infections put the goats through a foot bath regularly.

Trimming feet
  • Don’t trim off so much horn that you draw blood. Trim off only excess dead horn, using a clean sharp pair of clippers.
  • If you draw blood when you trim feet, you may well cause painful infections to develop.
  • Foot trimming equipment needs to be kept sharp and very clean, with regular disinfection.

Foot baths
  • To prevent foot infections and to treat early cases, put the goats through a foot bath.
  • 10% zinc sulphate is best for the foot-bath.
  • 10% copper sulphate or 4% formalin have been used in the past but they are more hazardous for operators, animals and the environment.
  • Stand the goats in the foot-bath for at least 5 minutes, then on a hard surface like concrete for a while for the feet to dry before returning to the paddock.
Lameness with swollen joint(s)
  • There are many causes of arthritis, including injuries that can leave the injured joint permanently enlarged.
  • However a lot of arthritis is caused by bacterial infections.
  • Bacteria get to the foot joints in the blood or by tracking from nearby infections.
  • In very young goats the infection can spread in the blood from the navel at birth (joint ill).
  • In older goats the infection can spread from nearby foot rot.

Joint ill
  • In very young (unweaned) goat kids, bacterial infections can cause lameness with swollen joints (a condition called “joint ill”).
  • Joint ill can affect one or more joints in the legs.
  • The affected joints become swollen, hot and very sore.
  • The bacteria that cause the disease enter the body through the cord soon after birth, so the problem occurs most often in kids born in unhygienic conditions and it develops within days of birth.
  • To prevent joint ill keep the birthing areas clean and dip navels in dilute iodine immediately after birth.
  • If swollen joints develop, consult a vet immediately as treatment requires antibiotics by injection and only early cases respond well to treatment.

Dealing with on-going lameness problems
If there is a persistent problem with lameness in goats on your farm, you should consult a vet so that together you can devise a programme of foot trimming, foot bathing and culling to combat it.

Sudden death – overview
There are many potential causes of sudden death. Here are some of the diseases that can kill goats quickly.

Pneumonia
  • Pneumonia in goats is fairly common as a cause of death. Goats may be found dead with blood-stained froth at the nostrils, or they may first seem short of breath and slow to keep up with the mob when driven.
  • Pneumonia is often triggered by transportation or a spell of wet cold weather after shearing.
  • It doesn’t seem to be very infectious because usually only one or two goats are affected at one time.

White muscle disease
  • White muscle disease is caused by a deficiency of selenium and or vitamin E and it is the most common trace element problem in goats.
  • A common form of the disease involves the heart muscle and this can cause breathing difficulties and sometimes sudden death.
  • Affected goats usually range in age from newborn to 3 months old.
  • Selenium and vitamin E deficiencies can also cause lesions in skeletal muscles, and kids then have difficulty suckling and walking.
  • In growing goats, selenium/vitamin E deficiency causes unthriftiness.
  • White muscle disease in goats can occur even in areas where selenium responsiveness is not seen in sheep and cattle.

Selenium poisoning
  • Deaths occasionally occur because selenium supplementation has been too generous!
  • Only two or three times the recommended dose can kill a goat.
  • This happens most often when supplements are provided in several ways (in prills on pasture, in selenised drench and in salt licks).

Pulpy kidney disease
  • Pulpy kidney disease or enterotoxaemia is not common in goats. It’s probably over-diagnosed, but it does occur.
  • As with sheep, the signs are usually sudden death often in recently weaned goats, but goats of any age can be affected.
  • It may follow the feeding of green lush pasture or goats gorging on concentrate feed.
  • As with sheep, goats can be given a vaccination course as kids, then does can be given an annual pre-kidding booster.

As well as these diseases there are paddock accidents that can kill goats quickly. Horns can get caught in fences, even electric fences, feet and legs can get caught up in gates and yards, and any goat taking on a larger buck head to head risks fatal spinal cord injury or a broken neck. More good reasons for regular monitoring and good facilities.

Angora (Mohair) Goat Basics: Diseases PART 2 (skin & brain)

Agriculture, animal husbandry, animal health, diseases, goats, Angora, Mohair, skin, brain

By Dr Marjorie Orr



Skin lesions – overview

The signs of skin disease are usually fairly obvious, with itchiness, or hair loss, or scurfiiness or sores, or reddening or some other change in the appearance of the skin. Sometimes though the long hair of Angora goats can hide developing disease, giving you a nasty surprise at shearing time! As with all diseases it pays to be vigilant to spot the early signs of disease, and this means hands-on inspection, not just eye appraisal.

Here are some of the most common types of skin problem in Angora goats.

Lice
  • There are several types of external parasite (ectoparasite) that can cause skin itchiness and hair loss in Angoras, but by far the most common of these are lice (Damalinia species and Linognathus species).
  • Lousy goats have a scurfy skin and they are constantly itchy so they rub up against posts and fences and have a scruffy appearance.
  • To confirm that your goats have lice, part the fleece in various places and look for ‘moving dandruff’ as the lice scuttle out of sight.
  • There are several effective louse powders and pour-on treatments available.

Flystrike
  • Goats are not as susceptible to flystrike as sheep, but they can certainly be ‘struck’, and goats that are not healthy for any reason seem most at risk.
  • Flystrike tends to occur under dirty wet fleece particularly along the back or around the tail.
  • It’s most common in late summer and autumn in humid mild conditions.
  • You’ll need to be very observant to spot the early signs of eggs on the wool or skin or small sores containing maggots.
  • Affected goats are restless, they seek shade, twitch their tail, swing round to try to nibble affected areas and stamp their feet.
  • The maggots can be removed with meths (a horrible job) and the sore can be treated with flystrike powder available from your veterinarian or rural supplier.
  • Insect repellent on the surrounding wool will help keep the blowflies away.
  • In severe cases, euthanasia may be the only humane option.

To prevent flystrike
  • remove the attraction of dirty smelly fleece by keeping your goats dagged and clean. o Treat any cuts and sores and keep an eye on them until they’ve healed.
  • Flytraps can help attract blowflies away from stock. If enough flytraps are used early in the season, they help prevent flystrike.
  • Apply long-acting pour-on or spray-on insecticide treatments but note that following treatment there is a withholding time before the fleece can be sold.

Dermatophilosis
  • Dermatophilosis, sometimes called mycotic dermatitis, can produce quite extensive skin lesions in Angoras, with scurfiness and hair loss along the back, particularly after prolonged wet weather.
  • In kids kept in damp dirty conditions it is a common cause of scurfy scabby skin over the muzzle and it can look similar to scabby mouth. It can affect the lower legs too.
  • Providing a dry clean environment and good feeding and shelter usually results in spontaneous recovery, otherwise antibiotic treatment from your vet will be effective.

Scabby mouth
  • Scabby mouth (also called orf or contagious ecthyma) is a viral infection that is most common on lambs, but it can affect kids too.
  • It causes crusty sores, usually around the lips and muzzle.
  • Lesions usually heal spontaneously, but antibiotic cream and in severe cases antibiotic treatment from your vet will hasten recovery.
  • Grazing thistles often makes it worse,
  • It's a disease that can be transferred to humans.

Brain disease – overview
Fortunately brain disease isn’t common, but when it does occur it’s very serious.

Listeriosis or circling disease
Circling is the main sign of this disease in sheep but in goats the most common signs are:
  • Dullness
  • Head held high and to one side
  • Ear drooping
  • Paralysis of the jaw
  • Drooping of the eyelids
  • The disease is most common in adult goats in winter because it’s associated with feeding hay or silage of poor quality.
  • The obvious prevention is to ensure only good quality hay and silage are offered.
  • Treatment means antibiotic injections from your vet, but this is often unsuccessful.

Polioencephalomalacia

Polioencephalomalacia or PE is associated with a sudden change in feeding and it occurs in goats from 2 months to 3 years old. Sudden grain feeding can upset the balance of microbes in the rumen.

The result is a thiamine deficiency that damages part of the brain and the signs of this are:
  • Aimless wandering
  • Blindness
  • Teeth grinding
  • Straining the head up and back
  • Muscle rigidity
Consult your vet immediately if you see the signs because treatment requires thiamine by injection and it may not be effective unless given very early.

Meningitis
  • Meningitis means inflammation of the membranes over the brain, and this can result in fever, dullness, convulsions and sometimes death.
  • It is often caused by infection spreading from some other site in the body.
  • Veterinary treatment with antibiotics can help in early cases but it’s not usually successful.
Disbudding can be a cause of meningitis if it’s done badly. Fortunately very few Angora goat kids are disbudded, but there have been reports too of over-zealous disbudding of kids causing trauma and heat damage to the brain, leading to meningitis and death.

Angora (Mohair) Goat Basics: Diseases PART3 (ill-thrift & general)

Agriculture, animal husbandry, goats, Angora, Mohair, diseases, ill-thrift & miscellaneous, minerals

By Dr Marjori Orr



Ill-thrift
If your goats are not doing well, there are many possible causes. The obvious ones are under-feeding and worms, but if you rule these out, what’s left? Here are some of the possibilities - selenium deficiency, iodine deficiency and Johne’s disease.

Mineral deficiencies
Goats are just as susceptible to selenium deficiency as sheep, but probably more susceptible to iodine deficiency and less susceptible to cobalt deficiency.

Selenium deficiency
  • If does are deficient in selenium and/or vitamin E, their kids may be born with heart muscle damage that can cause stillbirths or weak kids or sudden death in newborn kids.
  • As they get older, kids with selenium deficiency don’t grow well and they may be stiff and reluctant to move because of skeletal muscle damage.
  • This is white muscle disease.
  • If the soil on your farm is deficient in selenium, it can be added to fertiliser and top-dressed onto pasture.
  • It can also be added to anthelmintic drenches or a long-acting selenium injection can be given.

Iodine deficiency
  • In iodine deficient inland areas, goitre can occur in newborn kids whose mothers’ diets have not been supplemented with iodine while pregnant.
  • Goitre is a swelling of the thyroid glands at the top of the neck just below the throat.
  • Iodine deficiency can be induced in goats or in their foetuses by feeding brassicas and clovers. These contain chemicals (goitrogens) that reduce thyroid hormones.
  • In older kids iodine deficiency takes another form – myxoedema.
  • This is an odd condition in which the kids’ growth is stunted, their skin is thickened and they look “podgy”.
  • To prevent the disease, does can be dosed with potassium iodide at intervals of 3 to 6 months or they can be given a long-acting iodine injection.
  • In lower-risk areas, providing iodised salt licks may be sufficient.

Johne’s disease
  • Johne’s disease is an infectious incurable disease of ruminants including goats.
  • It causes diarrhoea and weight loss in young goats from 1 to 3 years of age.
  • Over a period of weeks or months and in spite of any treatments you give, the disease progresses and the goats die. It’s incurable.
  • Fortunately there is a vaccine that can be given to very young kids to help prevent the disease.
  • If you suspect Johne’s disease in your goats, get a vet to check it out and discuss vaccination and management changes to help prevent further cases.

Miscellaneous diseases

Ruminal acidosis
  • Like other ruminants goats need time to adapt to energy-rich feed.
  • If they suddenly gorge on grain or concentrates they are in big trouble!
  • The microbes in their rumen will not be able to cope and the result is a build up of acid in the rumen, severe indigestion and possibly even death.
  • Mild cases can respond to dosing with milk of magnesia (15ml) repeated every few hours.
  • Goats need to be introduced to grain slowly over a period of a few weeks.
Hypothermia
  • After shearing, Angora goats are virtually naked until the coat regrows sufficiently to provide some insulation, and this can take weeks.
  • In the meantime they are very susceptible to cold stress in wet windy weather particularly if they are not well fed.
  • A rumen full of food particularly roughage produces heat as it is digested and this helps keep the animal warm.
  • Signs of hypothermia are dullness, back arched, head down, back to the wind, then eventually recumbency and death.
Water belly
  • This condition, characterised by a soft spongy swelling along the belly (ventral oedema), has been recognised in New Zealand in Angora goats of South African and Texan origin and also in their crossbred offspring.
  • It occurs mainly in young goats just after shearing, when as many as 15% of the flock can be affected.
  • Affected goats are usually bright and alert and most recover spontaneously within a few days.
  • In some cases there is no apparent predisposing cause although cold stress seems to be a factor.

Bottle jaw
  • “Bottle jaw” is a fluid swelling under the jaw between the mandibles. Sometimes it extends to the brisket.
  • This is usually the result of a disturbance of fluid distribution in the body because of low concentrations of the protein albumin in the blood.
  • The causes include protein loss caused by intestinal worms or Johne’s disease.

Tetanus

  • Tetanus occurs occasionally in goats.
  • The clostridial bacteria that cause it can enter the body through a site of injury, e.g. caused by ear-tagging, castration, disbudding or a penetrating wound.
  • Clostridial vaccination is effective in preventing tetanus.

Urinary calculi
  • In wethers, especially if they were castrated young, gravelly stones can form in the urine and they can cause painful and sometimes fatal blocks in the urine flow through the penis.
  • Feeding grain and concentrates for any length of time seems to be an important predisposing factor.
  • If the blockage is at the very tip of the penis in the small worm-like appendage that goats have there, the problem is sometimes fixed by cutting this off using sterile instruments.
  • Failing this, veterinary help is needed.

Poisons on the farm
Accidental poisoning of livestock is not common, but it still occurs regularly.
The signs are many and various, but the most common signs of poisoning are:
  • Diarrhoea
  • Vomiting
  • Unusual excitement - or unusual dullness
  • Body tremors
  • Pain (teeth-grinding, reluctance to move, arched back)
  • Convulsions
If you suspect that your goats have been poisoned, contact your veterinarian for advice without delay.

Common garden plant poisons:
  • Rhododendron
  • Yew
  • Laburnum
  • Delphinium
  • Blue lupin (a fungal toxin in lupins can cause lupinosis)
  • Iceland poppy
  • Cestrum
  • Oleander
  • St John’s wort
  • Avocardo

Native trees and shrubs
  • Tutu
  • Ngaio

Pasture weeds
  • Ragwort (goats are more resistant to ragwort poisoning than cattle or horses but their liver can be damaged if they eat enough of it).
  • Foxglove
  • Goat’s rue

Chemical poisons
  • Accidental overdosing with selenium can cause poisoning.
  • Superphosphate poisoning can occur when livestock are put onto top-dressed pasture before the fertiliser has been washed into the soil.
  • 1080 poisoning can cause deaths in livestock that are allowed onto poisoned land, and deaths have occurred after accidental drops of poisoned bait onto pasture.
  • Lead poisoning can occur from licking lead acid batteries or old sump oil.
  • Organophosphates (overdosing with insecticide or anthelmintic).

To prevent poisoning
  • Don’t throw garden prunings into the paddock and remember that some garden plants are more palatable when wilted.
  • Fence off rubbish dumps and check native scrub for tutu and ngaio before allowing livestock access to it.

Angora (Mohair) Goat Basics: Injections

Agriculture, animal husbandry, goats, Angora, Mohair, health, giving injections, practical advice
By Dr Clive Dalton & Dr Marjorie Orr



Injections

General hygiene
  • When giving injections always get veterinary advice to make sure the products are appropriate and you know the correct procedure. A loaded syringe can be a dangerous weapon for both you and any helpers. If anyone does get injected, then seek immediate medical help and take the product with you to the doctor.
  • Keep your tetanus vaccinations up to date too.
  • Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to the letter for storage and use of the product.
  • Make sure you take care to dispose of old syringes, needles and packaging in a safe place. Needles are especially dangerous and should really go into a special “sharps” rubbish container.
  • Various pathogenic bacteria are present on the surface of the skin and these may produce infection if injected with the medication.
  • Therefore; when time allows or for valuable animals, or if the environment is very dirty, take every care to clean and disinfect the skin before injecting.
  • If the injection is made on the side of the neck and the site is covered by wool, close clipping of the skin is ideal, but careful separation of the fleece and scrubbing the skin with a disinfectant may be possible.
  • There are lots of disinfection preparations on the market which are satisfactory. Tincture of iodine is satisfactory and is better than methylated spirits which though commonly used, is not effective as a disinfectant.
  • A fresh swab of disinfectant should be used for each animal.
  • Single syringes are mainly disposable these days but if a multiple-injection gun is used it must be disinfected when practical.
  • The gun, including all parts coming in contact with the drug or the product to be injected, should be placed in a large container such as a pressure cooker or saucepan and thoroughly boiled with the lid on.
  • Bringing to the boil will kill all normal bacteria and boiling for 15 minutes will ensure the destruction of most bacterial spores.
  • After boiling, the saucepan or container should be tipped sideways with the lid on so that the water drains out (like pouring off potatoes).
  • With all the water out, the syringe and the plunger may be picked up by external parts only and carefully fitted together without touching any part which will contact the material injected. Wash and dry your hands before picking up and assembling the injection equipment.
  • Equipment that cannot be boiled cannot be adequately disinfected. The best you can do is to soak it in a solution of disinfectant. Pour this off and then flush with cold boiled water. The latter should have been boiled in a lidded container and allowed to cool with the lid on.
  • If they are not washed through thoroughly with water, injecting guns and syringes may contain some of the disinfectant, and this may inactivate the vaccine, or cause irritation and damage of the tissues when injected.
  • To remove vaccine or other medication from the bottle in a clean manner, swab the neck and stopper of the bottle with a solution of suitable disinfectant. If sealed with a rubber or plastic seal, the material may be withdrawn using a syringe and two needles (one needle to allow air in as the vaccine is sucked out).
  • On large farms, the above comments may be hopelessly impractical. For example, if you have to vaccinate 500 ewes with 5-in-one vaccine, you will not have time to disinfect the skin of each sheep. You may simply proceed down the race injecting each sheep in a clean part of the neck, taking care to keep your hands clean (and washing them if they become dirty), and taking care to keep the needle clean (and replacing it if it becomes dirty).
  • Generally, use the smallest needle that is suitable, i.e. the needle with the narrowest bore, such as a 19-gauge needle. In tough-skinned animals a stouter needle may be necessary, e.g. a 16-gauge.

Subcutaneous injection (under the skin)
  • This is the easiest and quickest form of injection, and it is used for many vaccines and drugs that are non-irritant and are readily absorbed.
  • With stock held in a race to give a subcutaneous injection, pull up a handful of skin to make a “tent” and slide the needle into the base of the tent under the skin and press the plunger.
  • Check when doing this to make sure the jet from the syringe is not coming out the other side of the tent because you’ve pushed the needle too far through.
  • With irritant materials as some vaccines can be, a reaction may result producing a lump. This may blemish the carcase when the animal is killed and dressed. In such cases, make the injection at the top and to one side of the neck. Any lump that occurs here can be trimmed off when the carcase is dressed.

Intramuscular injection (into the muscle)
  • Many drugs have to be injected deep into the muscles to give more rapid absorption and may lead to less irritation.
  • Where possible the intramuscular injection should be given deep into the muscles of the neck rather than into the big muscle mass of a hind quarter.
  • The reason is that the rear end is where the top-priced meat is on the carcass, and is the last place you want to cause an abscess in the carcase to be found when the sheep is killed or worse still – not found until it reaches the consumer!
  • When injecting into the neck the sheep can see you coming and often moves, whereas injecting in the rump there is less chance of it being aware of what is going on till afterwards. If the sheep feels pain with the initial jab or when the product is being forced down the syringe, watch for the sheep moving and the needle coming out.
  • It is important that the injection is not put into subcutaneous fat and actually hits muscle. That’s why it needs to go in deep.
  • Just before pressing the syringe plunger; withdraw it a little and if has inadvertently gone into a blood vessel, blood will show in the barrel of the syringe. If this happens the needle must be moved to a new site so that the injection is intramuscular and not intravenous.
  • If a spore of some clostridial organism such as tetanus, blackleg, black disease or malignant oedema, is lying harmlessly in the muscle, the disturbance created by the injection may cause it to germinate leading to fatal disease. This is a good reason for keeping clostridial vaccinations up-to-date.
Intravenous injection (into the vein)
  • Avoid giving intravenous injections (into the vein) and leave them to your veterinarian as finding a vein and injecting into to it can be tricky, especially on a sheep with long wool.
  • You can do intravenous injections under veterinary supervision and where you will have to demonstrate to your veterinarian that you are competent to carry out the task.
  • Intravenous injections are generally given into the jugular vein in the neck and it can be tricky to find. The sheep should be well restrained when locating the vein and when injecting.
  • If the vein is missed, there can be serious bleeding under the skin, and accidental injection of many medications around the vein instead of into it can cause a very nasty reaction, sometimes with sloughing of the skin.
  • There are many medications that could kill or do serious damage if injected into a vein and run in too quickly.
  • For example, when injecting calcium solutions intravenously, a veterinarian may listen to the heartbeat to gauge the rate of injection by the response of the heart. Without this, sudden deaths may occur.
  • For large volumes e.g. for milk fever or grass staggers, injections come in bottles or sachets with a long rubber tube attached to the needle so that the solution is gravity fed and the rate must be controlled by the height at which you hold the container.
  • Because the rapid injection of any medication into a vein can be lethal, all intravenous injections are given very slowly. The sheep must also be well restrained.

Intramammary injection (into the udder)
In sheep (and goats), antibiotics for mastitis are normally given intramuscularly but you may need to give an intramammary injection to get antibiotics into the udder via the teat canal.
• These are really “infusions” using the long neck on the tube rather than a needle to deliver the treatment.
• Remember the teat sphincter muscle that opens into the teat canal are very delicate structures and the teat is a very sensitive part of the sheep so work gently and with care.
• A sheep’s teat canal is much smaller and more delicate than that of a cow.
• After the full tube has been emptied into the teat, it’s no longer recommended to hold the teat end and massage the product up into the udder.
• It is also important to clean the end of the teat with meths before you insert the tube. Use cotton wool swabs and keep using them until they show no more dirt from the teat end. This may take quite a few rubs. If you don’t clean the teat end - all you’ll do is to push dirt and bugs into the teat and cause more problems.

Filling a syringe
• If you have to draw liquid from a new bottle of product into a syringe, it’s often hard to suck out because there is no air in the new bottle or container.
• All you need do is to draw into the syringe the amount of air that will be replaced by the injection, and inject this air into the bottle through the rubber cap.
• This will put enough air into the bottle and allow you to fill the syringe.
• You may have to do this every now and again if you find it hard to fill the syringe.
• Or you can put another needle in the cap of the container to act as an air entry while you are drawing product out.
• Try to keep everything as clean as possible and free from contamination.

Angora (Mohair) Goat Basics: Further reading & industry contacts

Agriculture, animal husbandry, goats, Angora, Mohair, information, further reading, references
 

By Dr Clive Dalton


Further reading
ARC Report No. 10. (1998).
The nutrition of goats. Report of technical committee on responses to nutrients.
ISBN 0-85199-216-1.

Batten, G. (2002).
Simply goats. A guide to making money from your farm with goats.
A FITT project funded by New Zealand Woolpro. ISBN 0-473-07077-4.

Charlton, D. & Stewart. A. (2006).
Growing poplar and willow trees on farms - Guidelines for establishing and managing poplar and willow trees on farms.
ISBN 978-0-473-12270-6.
Available from Isabelle Vanderkolk, AgResearch Grasslands, Palmerston North (Ph (06) 351-8246; Email: isabelle.vanderkolk@agresearch.co.nz)

Charlton, D. & Stewart, A. (2006).
Pasture and forage plants for New Zealand. Third edition –revised and expanded. 2006. Available from NZ Grasslands Association (NZGA) on www.grassland.org.nz

Code of Recommendation and Minimum Standards for the Welfare of Animals Transported within New Zealand. November 1994.
No 15. ISBN 0-478-07372-0. Ministry of Agriculture. PO Box 2526. Wellington.

Code of Welfare No 7. Animal Welfare (Painful Husbandry Procedures) Code of Welfare. December 2005.
National Animal Welfare Advisory Committee of the Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry. ISBN 0-478-29800-5.

Code of Recommendation and Minimum Standards for the Emergency Slaughter of Farm Livestock. No 19. 1996. ISBN 0-478-07431-1.

Coleby, P. (1983).
Australian goat husbandry. Night Owl Publishers.
ISBN 0-95950152-1-3.

Dalton, D.C. (1980).
An introduction to practical animal breeding.
Granada. ISBN 0-246-11194-1. Reprinted copies available from

Hetherington, L.U. (1977).
Home goat keeping.
EP Publishing Ltd. ISBN 0-7158-0461-8.

Kettle, P.R. & Wright, D.E.(1985).
The New Zealand Goat Industry. The Agricultural Research Division Perspective.
Ministry of Agriculture and Fisheries, Wellington.

Merrell, M. (1988?).
The A-Z of goat diseases.
Capricorn Communications Ltd.

Mohair New Zealand Inc.( ??).
Getting started.
A publication to assist newcomers to Mohair New Zealand. Compiled by Jean Batty & revised by Dawn Pirani.

Mohair New Zealand Inc. (2000).
The New Zealand Recommended Code of Practice for goat farming.
Contact Mohair NZ

Rumble, C. (1985).
Editor. Goat farming in New Zealand.
Wrightson NMA Ltd. ISBN 0-9597760-0-1.

Wilkinson. J.M. & Stark, B.A. (1987).
Commercial goat production.
ISBN 0-632-01848-8.

Yerex, D. (1986).
The farming of goats in New Zealand.
Ampersand Publishing Assoc. Ltd. ISBN 0-959762404-2.


Industry contacts

Mohair New Zealand.
Executive: Dawn Pirani. Ph. (07) 522-0827. Email: i.d.pirani@xtra.co.nz

Mohair Fibres Ltd.
Purpose: To market specialty fibres – mohair, cashmere, cashgora.
Motorway Service Centre, Mill Road, Bombay, Auckland. Phone: (09) 236-0483. Freephone 0800-664-247. Email: mohair@mohair.co.nz Website: www.mohair.co.nz
Owner/Director: John Woodward johnwoodward@mohair.co.nz
General Manager: Deborah Woodward debwoodward@mohair.co.nz

Mohair Pacific
Purpose: Mohair buyers, brokers, exporters
Contact: Chris Sundstrum.
1757 South Eyre Road, RD 1, Rangiora
Phone (03) 312-0415. Fax (03) 312-0416

Mohair New Zealand
Purpose: To assist mohair producers enhance the viability and success of their mohair production.
Website: www.mohairnz.co.nz
Secretary: Email: southcanterbury.ff@fedfarm.org.nz

New Zealand Wood Testing Authority Ltd
Purpose: Testing of raw and processed wool (and goat fibre) to international standards. Technical consultancy and laboratory equipment manufacture.
Head office and laboratory: Cnr Bridge & Lever streets, PO Box 12-065, Ahuriri, Napier. Branches in all major New Zealand centres.
Phone: (06) 835-1086. Email: testing@nzwta.co.nz. Website www.nzwta.com







Angora (Mohair) Goat Basics: Dehorning

Agriculture, animal husbandry, goats, Angora, Mohair, animal health, dehorning, disbudding, practical advice


By Dr Clive Dalton



Dehorning

  • Angora goats are not usually disbudded as kids like dairy goats, and owners are generally happy to accept horns on adults as part of a breed feature.
  • But sharp horns can be a nuisance, and a danger to humans in both kids and adults, although they have the big advantage of making catching and holding goats easier.
  • Horned goats can get caught up in all sorts of things eg fences, netting, scrub and trees, gates, etc.
  • Kids can be dehorned with a hot iron before they are a week old but great care is needed.
  • See the information below from the Painful Husbandry Procedures Code of Welfare states:
  • “The skull of goat kids is much thinner than that of calves. Thermal cautery disbudding techniques must be carefully used to avoid damage to the underlying tissues, including the brain. If the initial burn is not adequate, or does not cover the diameter of the horn bud, then the site should be allowed to cool before heat is reapplied. As well as being shallow, the horn bud of kids is more diffuse and a wider piece of adjacent skin (5mm around each horn) should also be taken to avoid regrowth of horn material (scurs).”
  • Clearly from this information, you’d be wise to get a veterinarian to do the job.
  • You should also get a veterinarian to remove the horns of mature goats unless it’s just the end of very long horns, which are solid and have no blood or nerve supply. The sinus in the horn is joined to the sinus in the skull next to the brain.
  • Caustic chemical disbudding done from 7-10 days old is legal but has many potential problems and should be avoided. Caustic paste burns. If it burns you skin, then the goat has similar feelings.

Castration
  • This is done with a rubber ring and the rule is simple. Place the ring around the scrotum making sure the testicles are below it and the rudimentary teats above.
  • Kids can be castrated at birth and should certainly be done before they are 6 weeks old.
  • To castrate a goat over six months of age you will require the services of a veterinarian as an anaesthetic must be used.

Rubber rings
  • Using rubber rings is the most humane method.
  • A ring is stretched with special pliers and placed around the neck of the scrotum.
  • The rule is simple – make sure that before the ring is released that both testicles are below the ring and the rudimentary teats are above it.
  • Hold the testicles down with your free hand in the scrotum while you release the ring to make sure they don’t escape back above the ring.
  • It’s best to do the lambs between 7-10 days old.
  • Lambs feel pain as judged by them lying down and kicking from 5-15 minutes but then they show no more obvious distress.

The 'cryptorchid' procedure
  • This is also called the “short scrotum method” and is where a rubber ring is put around the scrotum so it will eventually drop off, leaving the testicles up against the body wall.
  • The higher temperature this creates makes the sperm infertile while the ram gets the growth benefit of the male hormones while being infertile.
  • Be warned though – an odd cryptorchid may not be completely infertile and may be able to get females pregnant.